Hi Roadrunner just wondering what brackets you used to fasten the number plate there it's the same place I was thinking On my ff .look loads better there than I front of the air filter.

I used a piece of straight aluminium along with a steel bracket which I bent a 90 degree angle to at the end and drilled some holes. 
Counter sunk the aluminium and bolted it to the bracket with a countersunk machine screw.

Attached to the exhaust with an exhaust clamp which I drilled through and added an additional bolt to the centre, the sides of the clamp stop the bolt rotating when fastening down the nut.

Attach the number plate to the aluminium strip with a couple more stainless bolts (hex domed) which I use for my tinware as well.

You could also used these to bolt the plate up to the bracket, double whammy maybe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-UNIVERSAL-LED-NUMBER-PLATE-TAIL-TIDY-LIGHTs-CAR-MOTORCYCLE-BOLT-LIGHT-LAMP-/291521132319?hash=item43e003771f:g:6XQAAOSwBLlVLgxw

Other types are available

I thought about those, but they are not a easy to remove as once they are on you have to cut the wires off to unbolt the plate.

While I'm posting updates I did get some stick on metal badges from Europe on eBay.  Fills the gap where the old cyclone stickers were

Nice one think I'll do more or less the same think I best order a tin number first lol

Quote from: Roadrunner on July 23, 2015, 06:41:47 PM
Time to get ready for Swanage and having no storage was a problem.  Before I have always just loaded the back seat to the brim and set off like that but decided it was time for a change








You can see I attached it at the front using mirror mounts and the rear using 2" roll bar mounts I bought from the states.

Thinking about a stripe on it too now. 

Hiya, cracking build. Had a bit of a peep at this at the Volksweald show at weekend too

Can I ask where you got the mirror mounts from and are they a pretty universal fit for buggies with the metal screen surround?
I'm thinking they might be a decent option to add a 'board carrier' bar above the screen to use in conjunction with the roll bar
Cheers in advance

Heritage and Limebug sell them, they fit on the Manx style screens

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac857775-manx-mirror-mount-vw-spare
https://www.limebug.com/product/view/1693/buggy-mirror-mount-for-wind-screen-shield-frame-978#temp

Quote from: Roadrunner on July 16, 2018, 02:13:53 PM
Heritage and Limebug sell them, they fit on the Manx style screens

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac857775-manx-mirror-mount-vw-spare
https://www.limebug.com/product/view/1693/buggy-mirror-mount-for-wind-screen-shield-frame-978#temp

Looks like might do a turn, where it says Manx style screen surround, assume means majority of the regular metal framed screens ?
Don't suppose you've got a close up of how you fitted yours with regards to the roof box mounting?

Quote from: Krafty on July 16, 2018, 05:12:12 PM

Quote from: Roadrunner on July 16, 2018, 02:13:53 PM
Heritage and Limebug sell them, they fit on the Manx style screens

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac857775-manx-mirror-mount-vw-spare
https://www.limebug.com/product/view/1693/buggy-mirror-mount-for-wind-screen-shield-frame-978#temp

Looks like might do a turn, where it says Manx style screen surround, assume means majority of the regular metal framed screens ?
Don't suppose you've got a close up of how you fitted yours with regards to the roof box mounting?

I've ordered a couple - two hopes

Thanks for the quick reply with the link

I've used that method to carry a kayak before, still have the bar if you want it but the clamps got re-purposed.

After all this time it was time for a few tweaks.

1st problem I had was that the Type 2 rear lights don't have a rubber cover on the rear, so the contacts and bulbs were corroding.  Even worst was one of my lights had filled with water and corroded the shiny surface.

So...

I went to Wickes and they are selling Loft Lids.  This are to protect down lights from loft insulation, but also happen to be a perfect for the T2 lights.


Little bit of fibreglassing and I ended up with.


Put a rubber grommet in the back to allow the cables through and glassed them in

Another thing I wanted to do was replace all the rubber fuel pipes across the engine with kunifer (still leaving a rubber pipe between chassis and engine.

I started this ages ago, but came across a problem trying to connect to my carbs.
I found a product manufactured by Earl's Performance in the US - 991951ERL
Purchased from https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-991951erl

They are anodised blue, but this can be stripped using caustic soda.

Also had to purchase a 37degree flaring tool - darn AN fittings.

I've gone:

• R14 to Fuel filter barb
• Fuel Filter AN6 to Kunifer to Facet Silver Pump
• Facet pump to Kunifer to Regulator
• Regulator to AN T Piece
• T Piece to Kunifer to Earl's Performance Fuel Fitting Adapter

So here's how it turned out.





The crocodile clip to the connector and engine, were me powering the pump to test for leaks before putting the engine back in.

Like the solid tubes. Bugger, I've a AN flare tool could have lent you.