Quote from: Paul1953 on April 22, 2026, 07:43:09 AMOne thing that came to light e few weeks ago. An actual case. If anyone who has joined the AA as cover for a buggy breakdown, or any other classic vehicle, your policy with them is void if the vehicle has not got a current mot showing on DVLA records. (Of course this will be like dvla...... some folk will get lucky some won`t.).

I'm into old bikes, one of my old-bike riding mates was refused AA attendance because his MOT-exempt machine did not have an MOT.  He found this out after a couple of hours waiting for AA attendance.  Worried by this, I spent hours on the phone to the AA who said they are very well aware of Historic Vehicle status and its MOT exemption, their call handlers and guys on the road should know this and this situation should never happen. This was a couple of years ago - I'm surprised but not surprised that this is still happening!  I'm wondering if they've forgotten to tell some AI system which handles calls through the app.

Quote from: cunningstunt on February 22, 2025, 10:57:48 AM
Secondly, With the GT shell there are 2 downward high ridges on the front bulk head, not sure if others have it? When i've put a laser on the box spline to see where i cut the hole it is half on and half off the ridge, should it go through the centre of it or just where it lines up? going to look ugly half and half

Mine ended up half and half, too. It's not right, looks awful with the front off but doesn't show with everything bolted together. (I still know it's there though!)

Quote from: Doon L001 on September 16, 2024, 10:39:54 AM
Thanks for all the replies but its not the starter motor after all.
Looks like I need a new battery,  charged it overnight and turns over fine this morning.

FWIW, this was the symptom I had; spins well for a few cranks after full charge, then it rapidly gets slower and only just manages to turn the engine.  Charge the battery, and all's well. Just like a failed battery!  It may well be worth popping the starter off and checking for radial play in the shaft, and the condition of the bush (a bush peened or heavily worn on one side will indicate too much starter shaft play).  Might save yourself the cost of buying a new battery unnecessarily.

Thanks for the replies.  Yes, there's a filter in the line, all the hardlines and hoses are new, the tank's clean and lined.  I can't find an air leak, but one of the hoses is a fairly slack fit to the line and clamped up with a fuel hose clip.  I'll redo that joint properly, but I'm pretty sure I'm up for a pump rebuild.

Just occurred to me it could be an air leak into the hoses.  Although there doesn't appear to be a leak out, I'll check the hose connections before going any further with the pump!

When I leave my LWB GT parked overnight on the flat part of my driveway (it's OK on the slope!), fuel drains back from the carb, empties the inline filter and sits in the lowest part of the line.

Is this a symptom of a failing fuel pump or is there something else I should be looking at? 

I'm using a standard Pierburg fuel pump. The tank's not mounted strangely, the fuel line run is exactly the same as on my GP SWB which has no such issues, but does have a Facet click-clack pump fitted at the tank outlet.

I just got mine rebuilt as it was turning the engine over increasingly slowly, cost me £45 plus a fiver for a new bush, turns over better than any new one I've ever fitted!

Auto Electrical Services Milton Keynes; Graham Barnett is the man.  And a VW Bus enthusiast.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Auto+Electrical+Services/@51.9759609,-0.7157239,1720m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x48765455e92365df:0x1089d96b1b729b15!8m2!3d51.9759609!4d-0.7157239!16s%2Fg%2F1tfc62rt?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MDkxMS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Thanks, Rob. I've not got round to it yet so no worries only just noticing!

One thing I didn't realise is that the 009 is 90° out from the SVDA, which confused me for a bit.

Quote from: farmer rob on January 24, 2024, 06:45:14 PM
You need to connect it to the bottom right port on the rear of the carb.

@Rob
Just to double-check...
The correct one to use is the angled port I have taped up in the picture, yes?
Thanks

It does, Rob, thanks.

Port info duly noted - I did think the port on the side was the one to use.

As it's payday, I'll be investing in one of those quickly, before the money runs out :-)

Quote from: farmer rob on January 23, 2024, 09:00:23 PM
Why are you running a 34 pict3 carb on a 1300SP engine? A 30 or 31 pict carb will run a lot better!

Rob

I'm not!  I'm using a H30/31!  I have no idea why I put 34PICT3 down, can't even use the excuse that it was a Monday morning. Thanks for pointing that out, Rob.

I'm currently running a 009 on my LWB GT.  It's never been good, with the most enormous flat spot just where you don't want it.  Running the mixture overrich has made the buggy driveable, but obvs it would be better with an SVDA distributor - trouble is, which type?

The motor's a 1300SP, running a 34 PICT3, bog standard '67 Beetle otherwise.  I know the part numbers of the SVDA which should be fitted and the suggested interchange part numbers* but do I need to stick to these? There seem to be very few correct parts out there, especially within my meagre budget! Is there a an aftermarket (electronic?) SVDA which can be just fitted?  Am I overthinking this, as is my tendency?

*SVDA: VW 113-905-205K/L, Bosch 0231 137 009/010 > 315-905-205B, 0231 137 031
Interchange: VW 113-905-205M, Bosch 0231 137 021, 113-905-205T, 0231 137 035 or 036

I use a short length of split rubber hose of the right ID and a tight fit on the OD, held in place either side of the hole by a Tyrap.

I've found the Halfords ones to be very good value for money.  For situations like yours, they do one with breathable panels in the sides, lets the air flow through. I have Fiat 500 size on my SWB, it could do with being a size smaller! The Halfords covers very frequently appear on Marketplace for pennies. The two I have at the moment cost less than £30 in total, in new, and used once condition. If any cover is in any way flappy, the paintwork really suffers with abrasion, even on the non-abrasive fluffy-lined ones (and I have a feeling this lining actually makes it worse).

If you've not opened it out too much, the Deluxe Speedo Trim Ring from JK (I guess other places do 'em too) could be a solution.  At its top end, it's a slightly larger diameter than the speedo bezel and has a lip.  The lower end is the same diameter as the outer ridge on the speedo bezel.  The trim ring can be glassed into the dash from the rear, and the speedo butted up to it, with a bracket also glassed to the dash to hold it.  Not as much effort as I've made it sound and looks good too.