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Hi Baz.

Yes its quite an open subject with all having different thoughts and experiences - hence why I like to have these discussions. OK may get more confusion due to the different thoughts. But its great to get all the opinions and then draw your own conclusions for you own specific situation.


Anyway, the more recent thread which got me thinking was this thread:

http://www.beachbuggy.info/index.php/topic,3085.0.html

Though since then balanced the carbs but still yet to rolling road it. (Before I do I want to eliminate any possibility of it be a result of poor petrol supply where too high or low pressure)

But at the same time, it was probably a follow on from the discussion we were having about oil breathers and their possible supply into the air filter of the carbs.

http://www.beachbuggy.info/index.php/topic,2687.0.html

fuel pressure does not affect carbs that much all you need is a full float chamber so as long as the  pressure is not to high and the float / valve can close off the supply when it is full to stop flooding you will be fine.

As for volume if you drive ar 60mph at 10mpg that is only 6 gallons an hour so as said a standard pump will keep up with the supply.

best you get it on the rolling road and tuned up correctly.

What ^^^ said....
I only fitted one cos a stock pump wont fit with a Redline Fanimold.........

The advise I got when I had mine put on the rolling road was the Dells/Webbers operate best in the 2-3psi pressure range.

Already had a regulator on mine from the first time it was done, My pressure was checked this time and was spot on - It was the first thing that Peter Baldwin at Wilshers motors checked.

I'm running the stock mechanical pump, and would only consider an electric if I wanted to immobilise the engine.

I think there is a potential disadvantage to an electron pump, not sure how well they would behave if your battery was flat and you wanted to bump start the car, I suppose there would be enough fuel sitting in the carb bowls to be OK.

Just after fitting the electric pump I went to the SDBC picnic.
I can confirm that the engine will start and run for a little while (about 100 yards in my case) without the pump switched on.  Then it sputters to a stop right in a gateway and once you remember it needs switching on it takes a while to refill the bowls with everyone queued behind 

I use Holley rotary pumps with Holley regulators, not because the engine requires any more fuel, as already mentioned, a stock pump will supply pretty much all the fuel any engine you fit may require, but because I can't be bothered with turning the engine over for several minutes every time I pull the engine and mess with the carbs, just to refill and pressurise them again before starting the engine with a battery that is now flat from priming the carbs. With an electric pump I turn on the ignition and several seconds later the fuel system is up to pressure.

Regulators should be used to prevent over fuelling and pushing fuel past the float, although some people prefer to go without. Do they actually know what pressure they are running at the carb? - I do as I have an in-line glycerine filled fuel pressure gauge just before each carb - the non filled ones shake the needle off after a few miles.

I manage about 100 miles per tank, regardless of what engine I have fitted (and I have had most sizes between 1600 and 2332cc), so again engine size has little effect on fuel consumption, greater difference will be noticed with differing driving styles. A notable exception to my above mileage quote - drag racing achieves nowhere near 100 miles per tank

Disabling the fuel pump is also a great immobiliser - again already mentioned. I can also immobilise via my MSD ignition unit, but removing the plug from my kill switch is probably the best immobiliser - all my electrics go through this.

I have never had an issue with bump starting, I have had my share of this as well, but then there has always been enough juice for the pump and some spark, plus the carbs usually have enough fuel for this activity anyway, and once running there is plenty of juice to run the pump.

road runner you potential problem is not one because if your battery was that flat it would not power an electric pump then it would not bump start because you would not have enough power to produce a spark.
I had a hgv tow me for 2 miles in france with the buggy in gear with a dead battery before it sparked into life as the ignition light was barely glowing and it would not bump start.

The jas suffers as the fuel in the webers evaporates and it needs cranking over to fill the carbs after standing for a week as an electric pump as said would give it instant starting. I am thinking of fitting thicker spacers between the carbs and manifolds to reduce heat transfer and evaporation afer stopping as the standard beetle stands for weeks but fire nearly first touch.

electric pumps should ideally only pump if the engine is running more for the case of accidents but the kango is wired live on the ignition rather than off the oil switch or alternator with a seperate feed for priming.
I know front mtd tanks come away in accidents so having a pump that runs with the ignition on is only a problem if the fuel line gets damaged to the carbs but the tank will possibly not be connected and if the buggy was not upright the tank/carbs will probably leak out anyway but a pressurised fuel line rupture is bad news either mechanical or electrical pumps.

just a point for you to consider if you ever sit and watch a air cooled engine start up on a normal day you will see the carbs and manifolds Ice up ,you then get rough running and just generally poor performance so adding a spacer to them would only exagerate that and cause you more problems.

Re the spacers.
When I fitted my twin carbs I could hear a fizzing soon after switching the engine off, this was the fuel boiling in the carbs, so I fitted thicker carb to manifold gaskets, problem solved.
I dont get icing on the twins, and I have driven some fair distances in very cold and wet conditions. Hope thats not famous last words.

The short manifold soon gets warmth into the carbs, although it did take a little longer with the thicker gaskets.

" I am thinking of fitting thicker spacers between the carbs and manifolds to reduce heat transfer and evaporation afer stopping as the standard beetle stands for weeks but fire nearly first touch"

I also am thinking of doing this as mine suffers badly, I have access to darvek (I think that's how you spell it) at work I may make some from that!

Stateside sell them and not worth making any for that price: http://www.statesidetuning.co.uk/t4carbs.html

Also I am sure Eurocarb also sell them but here is the ones they state they have, I need DRLA: http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products_details.asp?PartNo=DCNF%20BASE%20GASKET&CategoryID=3&PartsectionID=135

Be a bit careful what you buy, you may need longer studs as well and with mine (Weber 34 ICTs) there isnt much clearance to the fan shrouds so cant go too thick.
I think I got mine from Burtons (but wouldnt swear to it)

Be a bit careful what you buy, you may need longer studs as well and with mine (Weber 34 ICTs) there isnt much clearance to the fan shrouds so cant go too thick.
I think I got mine from Burtons (but wouldnt swear to it)

for me running DCNF carbs height is no problem as they are short.

Hi,

I have had 2 of those cylindrical fuel pumps and they are rubbish imho. Both failed and caused no end of issues.
I now run a genuine facet pump to go with my twin 44 drla's and no fuel pump regulator and have no issues whatsoever.

Just my experience.

Regards,

Nat.

Hi,

I have had 2 of those cylindrical fuel pumps and they are rubbish imho. Both failed and caused no end of issues.
I now run a genuine facet pump to go with my twin 44 drla's and no fuel pump regulator and have no issues whatsoever.

Just my experience.

Regards,

Nat.

I am with Nat...... I run a Facet with my DRLA36's without a regulator and life's a dream (well in the fuel department    )