The conversion arms are still spot welded I think....will know more in a bit...

Well the conduit tube is well fixed at the pedal end and at the rear. I can't see or assess the fixing at the middle mount but when the clutch is depressed there is no noise or movement in the tube that I can make out where I can see it under the handbrake. The empi adjuster is pretty ropey I have to say. I think my first task will be to change the cable. It's frayed by the adjuster end..will go for the loop as done by others on here..

Next question is what's the knack to connecting the cable at the pedal end. I've no idea how to explain what is required to my 8 year old....my fingers/ agility ain't what they used to be..should the pedals come out?

Well plans for the day have changed so no buggy work today

It is possible with the pedals in and all 4 side plate bolts out but very fiddley because of the access. Uncoupling the brake cyl push rod gives a bit more movement.

I think the empi attachment has a lot to answer for.. I'm going to try and lash up an arrangement to see if I can get the clutch to disengage via the cable and pedal before assuming its anything worse.

If the release arm had failed I'm sure there would be excessive free movement at the lever which there isn't.
I know the clutch tube is fixed in at least 2 of its 3 locations so cant see that would be the culprit.

The cable does look in a bit of a state.

At best it will be a new cable and and worst, well engine out I suppose to see what's gone on at the clutch end..

EMPI four letters that used mean quality, now like many names just a purchased bygone product name for cheap manufacturers.

Well we are mobile again, the cable was the culprit mashed by the empi adjuster. No matter how tight the adjuster was it wouldnt hold the cable..hence loads off free play...

I bought a new cable and cut the end off. Then Cut the old cable at an appropriate point and joined the two with clamps bought in wickes. Seems to be OK and will be a short term fix..but my lever arm doesnt appear to have the notches for the wing nut so a mod will be required there..

But then another problem...Try as I might I cant get the throttle lever connected back to the shaft if I want to use the whole cover assembly. It just  wont go and I dont get it because if it came off it should go back on right?

Good news then, the accelerator arms sometimes need gentle persuasion to go on so you have to hold the righthand side to stop it from sliding over as you use a small persuader.

The shaft coming in from the main pedal cluster appears to be too low and not central in the opening in the passenger side  of the tunnel so the lever wont properly engage over the plate with the stop tab on it. I ran out of light and couldn't get a good look at it but will have another go tomorrow morning. Probably have to loosen off the pedal cluster to get it aligned..

One other thing on this topic..whilst this hasn't happened to me I understand from reading on the web that the clutch pedal can suffer fatigue cracks which have an effect of reducing the travel of the release arm..just thought it worth putting out there as it's another possibility after cables, conduits, tubes and the clutch itself have all been thought about. 

Reading this with interest.

It would be interesting to know what state your old clutch cable was in once removed, as I would have thought that if you lost a couple of strands somewhere along its length, then it would allow the cable to stretch as it was operated rather that pulling as it should, as the twisted strands straighten out.

Also, don`t underestimate the importance of the "bend" in the bowden tube for correct clutch operation.

If it helps, this is how mine looks

Quote from: Dave DND on April 02, 2016, 08:15:20 AM
Reading this with interest.

It would be interesting to know what state your old clutch cable was in once removed, as I would have thought that if you lost a couple of strands somewhere along its length, then it would allow the cable to stretch as it was operated rather that pulling as it should, as the twisted strands straighten out.

I will take a photo, mashed is the word I would use. It all happened where the cable was fixed at the adjuster.

Cant help wondering why someone hasn't come up with something better as an off the shelf part.. my experience of empi generally has not been good (remember my carbs!!). When I replace the cable properly I will get a threaded end crimped on properly by somewhere that has a high strength crimping tool....

I am not in a position to do anything about all this but whatever solutions are offered
there is is only one real way of doing this that would not only be convenient but actually work.

Things now dont have to work, they just have to be sold in volume so that someone somewhere makes some money,
having a solution that actually works and allows a one stop ongoing maintenance and effective operation
without any damage to cables isnt hard, in fact its blindingly easy.
To produce them you need some investment and most just look at the short term and make a quick killing,
if all goes well, they continue to sell total crap year on year to an unsuspecting audience.

I cannot make things as I would like and already have two jobs that I havent gone near for they guys here, only because
the company workload is mind boggling.

You need a decent clamping, clutch adjusing housing, that treats the cable with some respect, it means
that a standard cable can be used on shortened buggies, all being needed is to chop the threaded end off to fit.

Just run an M8 tap straight through the standard wingnut, not pre drilling, and it cleans out the M7 x 1mm pitch standard
VW thread. M8 x 1.25 being just as suitable for the job as the original M7, which in my opinion was complete overkill in that
nobody needs adjustment refined that far....

I am quite suprised no one has yet mentioned Speedy Cables, and great bunch and they will make a cable to the length you want,
however you want, its not so easy on a full length chassis, but cables can still be made to your required length and they do a good job.

I have added some photos, and if you were able to speak to a local Engineering firm they should quite easily
be able to scale the photo to get all the dimensions they need.

Its an M8 cap screw contained in a hex housing, behind it are two M6 allen bolts that are clamping down on
pressure pads, just slide it into place, lock it down and adjust the clutch.
I have taken it one step further and made the clamping action of the bolts act on a split collet, this evens out the clamping
action and spreads it along the cable. So far I think I have had the first of the two, with pressure pads, for about 5 years,
maybe more and its still working fine, so I havent actually had to use the split collet model yet..

I hope this helps a lil bit and the frustration eases!

Peter

Good info Peter, I read your thread on this and it looks a great option if it can be made. I've got myself mobile again but isn't it funny how one job always seems to be the catalyst for another?? I'm now fiddling with and adjusting the pedals. Currently have a bolt as a pedal stop which needs to be changed for something more suitable...