If it is fine with the pads out put it together and bed them in the rotation of the disc will push the pads back that along with the seal pulling will give you the running clearance.
Did you chamfer the leading edge on the pad to help avoid it picking up on the disc.

If it is noisey with the pads out you need to find the contact area.

that little short flex hose looks way to tight a bend , and wont help fluid flow as well as stressing the rubber to fracture.  a change there if I was you.

Yeah that little hose as long gone, replaced the copper pipe with a longer flexy going from the bulkhead to the caliper to be safe.

I'm not sure what you mean snoppy, should I just bed the brakes in and it will sort its-self out after a few good stops as long as there is no noise with the pads out?

I will shape the pad as I have not done that, quick blast of 80 grit be enough I guess?

Ok so took the pads out and no noise when rotating the discs. I put pads back in, a touch more copper grease on the backs and sides just to be sure and all back up again. Still the same noise guess its down to the pads and discs being new and not ran in at all. Plumbed all the pipes and handbrake cables, just the adjusters on the handbrake lever to do.

I also put a lot of silicon grease on the guide pins to be safe as well, fingers crossed it'll all be fine when bled and on the road!

If you want to get your camber sorted and keep the tyres off the body fit a trekker rear axle /gearbox assembly with the reduction boxes and that will cure your problem

that trekker rear end does look a good option to lift the rear end up

that pic has modified shocks/towers which is not necessary
great set up for huge rear tyres as the gearing will be better suited

I guess 181-2 rear axles are hard and expensive to come by but you can also fit early van reduction hub boxes to a beetle transmission however you need to make adapters and flip the diff.
a complete early van box with reduction hubs will severely limit your top speed.

You need the spring plates too as they are trekker specific. I have a full trekker 1500 box, axles, reduction boxes and spring plates sitting in my garage

I had issues with camber using the massive BFG tyres and the coil over shocks. Since swapping them all to standard shocks and smaller tyres it sits well, infact much better than it did before.

I imagine the reduction boxes would be fantastic if you took it off road a lot.

reduction boxes fitted lay down allow you to bunny hop on launch and get the rear wheels off the ground the draw back is going around corners is mmmmmmm very interesting as you can go full tyre contact to outside edge in a split second if you move the accelerator pedal.

Brakes are done! Bled them today and they are a little spongy, but will need to drive on the road to get a real idea if they need rpv's installed.

Quote from: apmaman on February 16, 2015, 06:13:08 PM
Brakes are done! Bled them today and they are a little spongy, but will need to drive on the road to get a real idea if they need rpv's installed.

I fitted one to the rear line, front was OK.  Did you uprate your master cylinder?  If not get a MK1 golf master cylinder and then buy one of the fitting kits from Heritage or machine 7.

I put in a dual master cylinder from M7 a while back. If I pump the brakes the pedal goes rock hard after 2 or 3 pumps so I may have a little air left in there somewhere, or perhaps the rpv's will take up the slack.

Is there anywhere specific they have to go? or as long as they are in the line somewhere.. I would assume closer to the master cylinder the better to pressurise the whole line

Exactly, the closer the better.  The thing is a standard dual master isn't designed to push as much fluid as the golf mk1 master which had discs all round.