Dave my 2psi is fine for my rears.

I think you'll find it's going to be holding 2psi throughout the whole pipe so no need to double up.

Quote from: Roadrunner on October 15, 2014, 09:35:13 AM
I think you'll find it's going to be holding 2psi throughout the whole pipe so no need to double up.

You are quite correct, however I`m using one on each side at the front rather than one for the pair   

Quote from: Dave DND on October 15, 2014, 07:44:42 AM
These are the valves on the left that I got from Kingfisher Customs - they are rated at 2psi which is what is required for front discs.

The adaptors shown on the right are simply male to male adaptors that you can probably find on ebay or similar, and makes fitting an absolute doddle. Where my brake lines from the master cylinder screw into the flexible hose, these were undone, and the RPV with the adaptor was screwed in place. The beauty of this is that there is minimal faffing about with brake pipes and you can easily get access to them.
Check your thread size, but this may be a start

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-UNION-IN-LINE-CONNECTOR-DOUBLE-MALE-METRIC-X5-/251121002593?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a77fa6861

Great thanks for the link I need to get some of these, got my in-line valves from McGill's in the end where Gordon recommended just need the male to male adapters

Cheers Dave!

I got RPV's from kingfisher too, they were EMPI' ones and do look slightly different to yours. Im sure the thread on them is different too, not the metric one the beetles use... Will send it off somewhere so I get the correct fitment..

As dress up bits for my new engine are virtually non-existant, I decided to send some bits away to be powder coated. The quality of the metal to start with was not that great, and there are lots of creases and holes associated with the poor quality material that the Type4 tinware is made from, but that said and done, I`m pretty pleased with the chrome effect job that has transpired.





The rear fan housing is really badly pitted, and although Muzzy is trying desperately to polish his one, I decided that there just weren`t enough hours in the day to go down this route, and neither did I think the poor quality with all its holes and roughness would look any good if finished in a shiney colour either, so I had them powder coated also in a matte black to match the block itself and figured that it would be a good base to show off the shiney bits bolted to it.





Before the tinware was sent away, I had to modify a couple of the bits so that my oversized oil sender unit could be fitted. This dual output sender comes from an Audi 100, and runs both the oil pressure warning light and my oil pressure gauge together. Good to see that it pokes through the hole I made quite nicely.





The powder coat does not have the same "Bling factor" as chrome does, thats for certain, and the finish looks more like a cross between polished aluminium and dull stainless, but I think you will agree that it does bring a new lease of life to an old engine by transforming it in this way.







Powder Coating was done by Wings & Sons, just outside Totnes, Devon

http://www.wingspowdercoating.co.uk/

That looks good Dave much better than my front & rear cages that were supposedly powder coated in chrome
I'm sure he just did them in normal silver or it might just be because they are fairly small diameter tubes you don't get the full effect like your tinwear, I must say they weren't done be my normal fella at Willow Powder Coaters so always use him now & he won't do chrome

Cheers mate 

I can see why most powder coaters dislike the chrome effect, as it shows up every single pit, scratch and blemish against a mirrored finish, so can look a little "rough" when compared with other coloured finishes. I always reckon that if people are looking that hard at small imperfections, then they are missing the bigger picture. Won`t notice it anyway once it gets dirty.

He said he doesn't do it as often people aren't very happy with it for that reason you can't beat chrome for finish I guess but not always possible plus expensive, not sure how true but he also told me the way they have to do the chrome finish powder coating it's not as resilient as normal finishes

You are correct about not being as resilient as other finishes, which is why mine also has a clear cote laquer over the top - which does "dull" it down a bit. If you want a blingy Chrome finish, then there isn`t really a substitute for chrome, but oh my, thats prohibitively expensive

I got quoted near on £300 each for those top panels alone, and when you think I only paid £85 for 14 bits done in two colours, it does put things into perspective.

Not sure I could have done this with a rattle can for the same price, let alone time it would have taken   

Quote from: kenny h on October 17, 2014, 11:36:15 AM
He said he doesn't do it as often people aren't very happy with it for that reason you can't beat chrome for finish I guess but not always possible plus expensive, not sure how true but he also told me the way they have to do the chrome finish powder coating it's not as resilient as normal finishes

Ken

I have just had my wheels done in high chrome by willows and he said that they have change the clear lacquer and its much better so he will start using it again.



Dave I'm very impressed with the finish that is very shiny and more of a chrome effect than my wheels maybe they are using a newer powder.

mick

Been busy in the garage these past few days and pretty much run out of bits to bolt back on to the engine.

I have not yet decided whether to run a catch tank for the breather / oil system as yet, purely because the engine is in such good condition (thanks Rob) that I don`t think I`ll need one, so rather than messing about with braided pipe, I thought I would try a different look, and raided my spares box of silicone hosing instead. Only thing left to sort out is the alternator, and you can see where I want to hang / locate it, and how much room that there isn`t between the fan and the cylinder head (140mm)




Electronic Ignition has been fitted, courtesy of one of my other engines, and the obligatory green cable ties used in abundance - even found some blue ones to keep the HT leads tidy.





Hopefully we will have a dry weekend, and I can then pull it out into the open and fire it up

The engine fired up a treat - no problems whatsoever.

I needed to get the rear cage modified to fit around the new engine, and it just so happened that my mate in Torquay had a few hours spare and no cars in his workshop, so a quick belt down the road was called for. This had to be quick though, as the alternator problem had not been solved at this point (more on that later) so I had to get there and back on battery charge alone.

My rear cage looks like this, and after a quick measure up, it transpired that everything was perfectly in line, and just needed to be extended by 100mm to cope with the extra length of engine hanging out the back. The easiest way to do this was to cut and sleeve the bars as can be seen by the uppermost one, and once the length was right, they could be welded up.





It was offered up to the Buggy, and everything seemed to look good





I wanted the cage to be a fairly close fit to the engine, and from what we could see, we had no problems. The oil filler pipe will be relocated at a later date, so we were not too worried by that one just yet.





And the join is only just visible if you get down on your hands and knees to peer under the rear arches.





Out with the welder to make it secure, and then we can tackle the towbar brackets. Only once we have finished with the metalwork under the engine will I then know how much space I have left to play around with for an exhaust system.

The Alternator (or lack of) has given me a lot of head scratching over the last few weeks. The original location was stuck out, up high on the right hand side, which limited my options for putting a set of Cannons there, and I really wanted to tuck the alternator close in to the engine like they do on the type 4. My engine is in fact a late model type 25, and unlike the type four, does not use a fan duct cooled 35 amp dynamo or 40A alternator, but more troublesome was that I didn`t have the bottom bracket on my fan housing to mount it on either. I often thought that the Type 4 and Type 25 were very similar, but have since found out that they are indeed worlds apart. Ok, so fabricating a bracket is not a problem, we can do that, and luckily there were a few holes that I managed to cut a thread into. All I needed to do is find an alternator that fits. And this was a major headache, as just about every alternator that I managed to beg scrounge and borrow was just too long in length, and either the rear casing or in many cases, the battery terminal would foul the cylinder head tinware.





Someone suggested to look at the John Deere lawnmowers, and it was whilst checking out a local farm specialist that I took a peek inside one of their Toyota Forklift trucks and spotted this little beauty - it had a flat belt pulley on the front, but that was an easy swap. After a bit of research, it transpired that it also shared its origins with a 2006 Toyota Hiace V-Box 2.5 D-4D 4x4 vehicles and had a 65A output, which meant I could now obtain one through a local parts factor.





After looking round the workshop, I came across a hefty piece of angled stainless plate, and I think Heath Robinson would be very proud of the top bracket that was knocked up.





Now that the Alternator was hanging and swinging on the top bracket, a lower bracket was made with an adjuster on it, and looked so awful that we sprayed it black





Not the prettiest of solutions, granted, but the Alternator seems to be lined up, the belt has stayed on and its now charging the battery

Well done Dave coming along nicely I like the rear cage tucked in close to the engine that looks really cool

That looks like it was meant to be there, VW are maasters of subtle changes that you do not notice until you try to fit something