Yes engine turned over fine and also ran perfectly before hand
So wot you're saying is stop back put old shimms on then put back together should be fine

You should really check the deck height, the old shims may be too thick for the new pistons, you may need thinner ones. Too great a deck height can lead to low compresion ratio and poor performance.

Took heads of at tdc piston is flush with top of barrel please help

You need to add shim(s) under the cylinders until you get a minimum of 1mm (.040") gap (but idealy not much more) between the top of the piston and the top of the cylinder at TDC making sure that the tops of the cylinders are level with each other.

I do have four 1 mm shims that came from the 1300 barrels there were two on each barrel can use these

I'm sorry but you've lost me a bit. At first you say there were 3mm shims under the original cylinders than you say there were two x 1mm shims under each cylinder and you've got four of these in all, wouldn't 4 cylinders x 2 make eight shims in all?

If you're sure that your deck height is exactly zero and that you've got 4 shims exactly 1mm thick then sure, you can clean them up, give them a smear of Blue Hylomar ane re-use them. Discard any paper garkets. Re-check the deck height accurately with a straight edge and feelers before you re-fit the heads.

Quote from: Tone on February 27, 2014, 09:04:53 PM
They were like metal gaskets between barrel and block about 3mm each

Yes sorry I was guesstimating 3mm but there was 2 x 1 mm shims under each barrel so I have 8 shims in total sorry for confusion I'm just stressed lol but I must admit the gap from piston top to top of barrel on 1300 was a massive 15mm

Just be very careful as if you dont have enough gap between the piston and top of cylinder then it may well idle but when you rev it there could be contact between the pistons and head.
Too big a gap and you lose compression and some power.

I would have thought you need to fit the shims, sealed as ManxDavid says, make sure there is a gap with the barrels pushed fully home, dont forget to check all cylinders.
Loosely tighten the heads to ensure barrels are fully home, remove and check gaps again.
Torque 1 head and remove and check again, then do the other. This just in case a barrel moves while turning the engine over

This may seem really overcautious but (IMHO) better to check several times rather than blow your engine up

Good luck
dave

Quote from: Tone on February 28, 2014, 06:11:07 PM
Yes sorry I was guesstimating 3mm but there was 2 x 1 mm shims under each barrel so I have 8 shims in total sorry for confusion I'm just stressed lol but I must admit the gap from piston top to top of barrel on 1300 was a massive 15mm

That needs invesigating. 15mm?

Quote from: parrothead on February 28, 2014, 06:38:14 PM

Quote from: Tone on February 28, 2014, 06:11:07 PM
Yes sorry I was guesstimating 3mm but there was 2 x 1 mm shims under each barrel so I have 8 shims in total sorry for confusion I'm just stressed lol but I must admit the gap from piston top to top of barrel on 1300 was a massive 15mm

That needs invesigating. 15mm?  That would be a bent rod or 4 very unusual unless it has some incorrect pistons measure pin to piston top height and full length top to skirt.

Was this a 1200 engine that someone put 1300 barrels on and now it is not a case of the pistons hitting the top and locking it but the pistons fowling on the crank? It certainly needs the stroke measuring.

Rob

But he says the piston crowns are level with cyl tops, weird.

All sorted now mate came round measured 1300 like a tw.t I was looking at piston ring mark that showed 15mm ended up being 2mm so worked same with shims as 1641 is now thanks for all your help

Cool, well done!!!

Did you end up putting just one shim back under each cylinder or two?