Not everyone sadly...

I've sorted out a few Beetles where they've had the tracking adjusted just on one track rod, the steering wheel has been 'on the wonk' so they've just turned the wheel around on the splines...instant steering problems so they then try to adjust the steering box or worse, buy a new steering box and fit it in the same position then blame TRW, Kingfisher or whoever because it's no better...

Quote from: Manxdavid on February 17, 2025, 01:46:46 PM
Not everyone sadly...

I've sorted out a few Beetles where they've had the tracking adjusted just on one track rod, the steering wheel has been 'on the wonk' so they've just turned the wheel around on the splines...instant steering problems so they then try to adjust the steering box or worse, buy a new steering box and fit it in the same position then blame TRW, Kingfisher or whoever because it's no better...

That sounds exactly like what happened when i took mine to a local "race prep workshop" for a 4 wheel alignment. Went it nearly driving straight, came out trying to turn round and going the opposite way!!
Came home and he had done exactly that, adjusted one rod so it threw it all out. Had to start again and learn how to do it.
String, tape measure and axle stands are about all you need but dd have a track rite thing so that was fairly simple and i bought a camber gauge and checked that, i think he set it to -4 one side and +1 the other!
It seems fine now so leaving it alone 

I'm convinced that the majority of people who complain about steering boxes haven't had them set up correctly, some as you say by professional companies.

I've found most old steering boxes need is a clean out, new seals (which cost coppers on eBay) and refilling. I use 90wt gear oil but John Deere Corn Head grease is favoured by our American cousins.

Dave  I do hope that everything sorts its self out for you both

Anyway re steering boxes  CIP 1 have a selection    worth a look fella.👍

Quote from: Manxdavid on February 17, 2025, 06:57:05 PM
I'm convinced that the majority of people who complain about steering boxes haven't had them set up correctly, some as you say by professional companies.

I've found most old steering boxes need is a clean out, new seals (which cost coppers on eBay) and refilling. I use 90wt gear oil but John Deere Corn Head grease is favoured by our American cousins.

Nothing can cure a TRW box though 

Quote from: cunningstunt on February 18, 2025, 03:04:36 PM

Quote from: Manxdavid on February 17, 2025, 06:57:05 PM
I'm convinced that the majority of people who complain about steering boxes haven't had them set up correctly, some as you say by professional companies.

I've found most old steering boxes need is a clean out, new seals (which cost coppers on eBay) and refilling. I use 90wt gear oil but John Deere Corn Head grease is favoured by our American cousins.

Nothing can cure a TRW box though 

Strange because TRW did make OEM steering boxes for VW. I've got one with both logos cast into it 

Original TRW boxes would need to pass VW parts in inspection before fitting but now TRW are part of the ZF group however these new boxes must be made under licence in China to price not quality. A pity nobody makes new worms as the main wear problem is where the top bearing sits on the worm shaft becoming pitted and giving lumpy motion and tight spots. The shaft is 16mm from memory and nobody does a suitable size bearing so you could machine the rough part to a right angle and put a complete bearing on.

Over the past couple of decades or maybe more I have come across very few enterprises whereby they alter both track rods and ensure your steering wheel is dead straight ahead when you get your vehicle back. On a Beetle/Buggy etc VW made things really simple and it is a do at home job. You must stick to a principle however before writing off any steering box. Very briefly disconnect track rod ends and steering damper if fitted. Firstly check the condition of the track rod ends and replace if necessary. When screwing rod end into tube go approximately half way in thread wise. Firstly, and this is critical, with rods disconnected centre the steering box travel. Do this as follows. Rotate to either towards nearside or offside. Rotate from one steering lock to the other counting the number of turns. Return the box to central position and mark the steering box. Double check this.   With the steering box in central position, and without allowing it to move connect up both the long and short rods with the wheels in the straight ahead position, Ensure wheels cannot move sideways now. Take a look at each track rod etc threads to ensure you have enough threads showing to allow screwing in out out a little. (you don`t need much). Move rod ends in or out until they will slot vertically into the tapered holes. (Two taper sizes.... 10mm and 12mm threads. They must match. (10mm uses a 17mm nut. 12mm a 19mm nut). Now then steering box still centred... yes. Steering wheel still dead ahead... yes. Wheels still dead ahead... yes. Tighten up the lock nut without allowing rods/track rod ends to rotate. (Note LH & RH thread movements here).
Rotate steering box lock to lock one last time and check it is centred still. Slacken the nuts at track rods. BOTH of them. Use a steel rod, piece of wood with a bolt down one end etc and check that the wheel rims either side front and rear portions. (Not tyre walls). They need to be equal to start with. Adjust by turning rods. Both of them as equally as you can. Now tracking.  VW proscribed 1/8" "toe in". That is front wheels pointing in over a tad. (This figure would be laughed at by todays guys with their super accurate laser gear. It was good enough back in 1936 when the chassis/suspension was first designed for the war preps` so its still good enough today and you do not need super accuracy).

Lot of writing but it is simple if you are methodical. You have done this and...... Steering is still sloppy or tightens up towards full lock either side. Well way back when I was a lad, just before the mot, we tightened up a shattered boxes slack by using the slotted adjuster on top of box. On a knackered box adjusting this nut/peg down over is not an answer.

On a reproduction box, and ok the manufacture/quality checks are what they are and we have to live with it, it`s pointless just fitting it and expecting all to be ok. There are two points of adjustment. One that`s already mentioned the top peg and  secondly the adjuster with a flat that is around the input shaft. They both work hand in hand for correct adjustment. You don`t need micrometers etc. Just adjust until full rotation either way is smooth without any notchiness.

I have mentioned N2 Engineering before. All boxes I have had are a quantum leap forward from a knackered box.  There are also, if you take a look about at jumbles etc, some decent original boxes about. Far better than going the reproduction route. 

I have a question..... If it is as simple as I say then why do the modern generation garage guys not do a proper job ? No answer needed. It`s just the way of the modern world.

Centering the steering is not as important on a rack and pinion set up as there is no 'sweet spot' at dead centre like in a steering box.

As I mentioned in my ramblings on the subject when trying to find true centre of the steering box when fitted to a vehicle either fully back off or preferably remove the bolts from the lock stop bracket as they may be making contact with the Pitman arm spur so preventing the box getting to full lock.

The beetle trailing arms move in a backwards arc and as the suspension rise or forwards in fall so the tracking alters which is not a problem on wishbone suspension with a rack as the wheels move up and down but stay in the same relative position to the  steering rack. Any car not centred will pull to the side because caster wants the wheels to go straight not off at an angle. Most technicians have never seen a steering box these days.

Quote from: Manxdavid on February 18, 2025, 03:38:13 PM

Quote from: cunningstunt on February 18, 2025, 03:04:36 PM

Quote from: Manxdavid on February 17, 2025, 06:57:05 PM
I'm convinced that the majority of people who complain about steering boxes haven't had them set up correctly, some as you say by professional companies.

I've found most old steering boxes need is a clean out, new seals (which cost coppers on eBay) and refilling. I use 90wt gear oil but John Deere Corn Head grease is favoured by our American cousins.

Nothing can cure a TRW box though 

Strange because TRW did make OEM steering boxes for VW. I've got one with both logos cast into it 

Maybe i should rephrase that to " modern repro" TWR boxes. The one i had was appalling.

There's only one true TWR anyway 

If you've got the track rods off weld a nut onto them (check it won't foul anything) makes adjusting and holding it still while tightening easier