Phil,

If using a Polo Rack setup, I know that the arms are different lengths and only the passenger one has adjustment etc etc - are there any do's and dont's  for making up a new set of trailing arms with adjusters, and can you use, say, something along the lines of rose joints at the box end instead of the old knackered rubber ones?

Dave, Alex who sells the polo rack conversion bracket also sells the arms with polo joints one end to vw ball joints the other. I have them in the garage over length and threaded for both ends ready to cut to length when i get round to fitting it. Any good for you?

Didn't know that - must give him a yell 

This is what he put it down on in my lot "Tierods custom length 140€ (polo inner joint, beetle outer joint)"

what length are your rods and are they both adjustable?

what length are your rods and are they both adjustable?

I'll check tomorrow Dave. As far as i know they are straight bar tube with extra threads at each end so i can fit the rack in place, straighten the wheels up and see where i need to cut them so they can be adjusted by the normal way of turning each rod for toe in or out

what length are your rods and are they both adjustable?
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There you go Dave

 

Might as well wake this old subject up for some advice please

Now iv'e got the body off the buggy ready to build up the new one i have the chance to fit the rack and pinion rack conversion so before i get in to it has anyone fitted the Polo rack with the kit Alex sells?
I've basically fitted the rack in to the bracket and offered it up but looking at it i'll need to move the hole for mounting the kit to the original damper shock mount as it sits too far to the right.
What pit falls and issues can i expect like fuel tank interference?
Is all the hassle actually worth it or do i just sell it all and buy a genuine recon box and leave it factory set up?
I've had the kit and parts for 3 years and not felt like i was missing anything, maybe that's my answer!!!

A custom made ally or stainless fuel tank is the easiest work around although I have seen where a hole is cut in the frame head to slide the rack through so it is lower down ( change the gear shift rod bush first )
I guess you could cut and fit a 1/2 tube in the top of the frame head so the rack sits in it to clear the tank

I genuinely think its more hassle than it's worth. 
It's all very well looking at options and fitting it when the body isn't on but once its fitted i'll not be able to test it or adjust it once the body is on, with tank and front end all on.
TBH there's nothing wrong with the original set up, it handles like a go kart and the steering is light and precise as it is.
I think i'll just buy a fully rebuilt genuine box and fit it, at least i'll know the geometry is correct, i don't get bump steer over bumps and pot holes and it tracks straight and self centres and its been fine since 1998!

VW made 21 million without rack and pinion so there may be a clue there

VW made 21 million without rack and pinion so there may be a clue there

Exactly what i was thinking Snoopy 

VW made 21 million without rack and pinion so there may be a clue there

My thoughts also 

After all the trials and tribulations I have had with mine, any comments I can make should be discarded   

However, for what its worth - whilst the original VW box is undoubtedly the option everyone would go for and recommend, the recon boxes, exchange boxes, or basically anything that did not come out of the factory 50 years ago, all seem to be of very poor standard. Dave Fisher recently fitted numerous boxes to mine from cheap recon to the mega expensive ones and they were all bloody awful. I have ended up for now with a knackered  sloppy box, but a brand new steering damper, and to be honest, it's about the best I have had on there for quite a while. For all of you banging on about VW boxes being the best - sure, they probably WERE, but the good ones have all gone, the rest of the originals are worn out, the recon ones are problematic, the after market ones are crap and an alternative solution really does need to be found.

The steering rack from the Mini is horrific and you can almost feel it bend with use.

The setup from Alex using the Polo Rack is actually really nice to drive on with no geometry issues whatsoever - the only problem is the sheer size of it and the space it takes up. If going down that route, then you need to either fabricate a new or relocate the existing fuel tank as I cannot see how both would fit under the bonnet - certainly doesn't fit under a Hustler GT - but if you can get it to fit, its nothing short of fantastic to drive on - (Driven Beetle, Baja and LHD Buggy all with that setup).

The Escort MK2 LHD rack is not bad, and seems to be the one of choice amongst many - but it isn't perfect by any means and if you try reversing with full lock you will understand when you can feel and hear the tyres scrubbing due to the slightly incorrect geometry - but if truth be told, thats such a small price to pay for the way it feels when driving, and I can see why its popular. Incorrect rack location can still give minor bump steer if not careful though.

I know of a couple currently building using a rack from a New Mustang and the electronic rack from a Corsa, but as I have not driven them yet, I cannot really give first hand experience.

That's a great review Dave 

I was wondering about the space needed under the front as it seems to sit higher than the box and if i had a full tank sometimes the weight sagged the fibreglass and the tank sat on top of the box until it got a bit lighter! Solved with a piece of wood pattern as a temporary measure 2 yeas ago 
Fabrication wise, it's not an issue. I was a welder/fabricator for 11 or so years and have both 150 mp and 200 amp migs for light work and the steering shaft mod, cutting gear and metal so i can sort a new tank base easy enough as well as the steering column shaft but i'm still asking myself is it worth it? It's not like i've been jumping up and down waiting to fit mine since i bought it, i think it was 2021 when i ordered the kit and bought the rack off you, all sat in the garage and not once did i think " i really should fit that and it'd make my buggy so much better"
As it is at the moment i have so much going on with the build and ive not even started it yet!
I'm waiting on Rob to get back to me about making a GT front to replace the sidewinder one i have with it, I need to get a screen made from my old pattern and then the steering so what started out as a simple body swap is already gone to £1000 or more extra plus sorting the rack as well i feel i can do without it. TBH my steering is really smooth and precise as it is but i think what i will do is take off the box and tie rods without moving the distances and offer up the rack and kit, fit the body on and drop the tank in, if its going to be an absolute mare then it stays VW box, if i think i can fabricate the tank fairly easy then i'll probably fit the rack.
I keep asking myself why i don't just fit the sidewinder front, not have to modify the tank other than centre fill and fit the manx screen with an inch chop  to lower it and be done with it!

Can I just add something about steering boxes that most of you will know but some newbies/lurkers may not.

The steering box must only be adjusted when at the dead centre position. Count the turns from lock to lock with the box off the car (if on the car back off or remove the bolts from the lock-stop bracket) and halve the number, then mark this position with paint or Tippex between the body and the Pitman arm. Then fit it to the car and fit the steering wheel at straight ahead. Whenever adjustments are made to the track rods when setting wheel alignment etc the steering wheel must always end up straight ahead and mustn't be moved.

You can then adjust the box. With the steering at 90 degrees from centre back off the 17mm spanner size nut from the adjusting screw, back the screw out with a screwdriver then screw it back in until it you just feel resistance as the play in the box is taken up. Then lock the nut up. There is supposed to be 3/4 to 1 inch free play at the steering wheel rim.

Then readjust the stop bolts on the lock stop bracket.

This is the word of the Lord...

Can I just add something about steering boxes that most of you will know but some newbies/lurkers may not.

The steering box must only be adjusted when at the dead centre position. Count the turns from lock to lock with the box off the car (if on the car back off or remove the bolts from the lock-stop bracket) and halve the number, then mark this position with paint or Tippex between the body and the Pitman arm. Then fit it to the car and fit the steering wheel at straight ahead. Whenever adjustments are made to the track rods when setting wheel alignment etc the steering wheel must always end up straight ahead and mustn't be moved.

You can then adjust the box. With the steering at 90 degrees from centre back off the 17mm spanner size nut from the adjusting screw, back the screw out with a screwdriver then screw it back in until it you just feel resistance as the play in the box is taken up. Then lock the nut up. There is supposed to be 3/4 to 1 inch free play at the steering wheel rim.

Then readjust the stop bolts on the lock stop bracket.

This is the word of the Lord...

That is exactly how we all do it David