Quote from: Paul1953 on March 01, 2024, 04:46:39 PM
Dave.... are you old enough to remember Bill Blydenstein ?     He was of Dutch origin but grew up in the UK to become the number one Vauxhall tuning guru...

I actually remember him racing an East German Borgward Isabella at Oulton Park. I took notice because one of my teachers had the same model. They were a real tank, quite Volvo-ish. His pre-Vauxhall days, late 60s?

Dont remember where I saw it but I remember Gerry Marshall, a big bloke, popping out of a tiny window when his Vauxhall racer went up in flames

The CF had manual choke from memory but the last time I worked on those was before feb 74 when I left the garage.
A balance pipe is useful for the idle balance VW fitted them on twin carbs for a reason.
I have also put the fuel lines in behind the fan but hard with short rubber hose at the ends and T piece.
The suction from one carb is not enough to operate the vacuum advance on the standard VW distributor so I have a T of both carbs and it works fine but technically it should have an anti pulse valve in.

You 6mm line is fine 30mpg at 60 mph is 2 gallons an hour with a bit more for acceleration your pump will shift well over 2 g in an hour unrestricted the facets are 20 to 28 gph so empty your tank in less than 30mins

Have same thought with fuel line.... back of fan and all "hard" wherever possible.....   Yes.... I have heard mention at some time in the past of ant pulse valve although I do not recall ever having seen one.   Typing as I try to motivate myself to go out into sub zero temp again. Never used to give it a thought spending all the winter days outside. I now seem to feel the cold much more than I ever did. Wonder if there is such a things as a heated tool box so that you don`t have to suffer bone numbing cold metal tools 

Hard to get motivated with cold damp weather but needs must was outside yesterday an engine out as the noisy flywheel had turned into locking up on the starter and a self supporting starter made as much noise and the buggy needs to drive next week. So a replace fuel lines fit an electric pump to save loads of cranking to prime the carbs after standing then drilling out 2 broken bolts on a secondhand flywheel meant a 4.30 finish but motor is going in this morning it would have been finished but a burst pipe in the bathroom flooded the hall below so that was an emergency repair distraction for a while.
Roll on summer now spring is here.

Snoopy it's a bit unfair of the Gods to rain on you outside and horribly water down your house and stairs. However, they'll soon learn that they've picked the wrong mortal to mess with as the buggy production line continues remorselessly!

Must say the orange north sea worker overalls supplied by Hudge are thick and warm but today with the strong cold wind the hi viz waterproof jacket and trousers went on instead but the Jas is up running and useable with no mechanical meshing noise from the starter and the electric fuel pump will save the long turning over to prime the carbs after standing a while..

Roll on summer now spring is here.

It`s snowing here. Be on tonight`s news no doubt...

Yes, we've snow too. Expect spring around end of August, just before autumn 

mmm.... wondering now about twin carbs if the 34 ict is typical.  The Webers I have bought are reputed to be built in Spain. I know it`s the way of the world now but I cannot get used to modern stuff in relation to what for a lot of you is vintage yesteryear items. Things were built to a far higher standard.

What`s my moan then about these carbs.   Well all the basic linkages at throttle end etc are covering in a real naff yellowish coating that is junk. The best example I can give is the throttle stop screw threaded receptacle. It should be a nut attached to the lever. It`s not. It is a squarish attachment fixed to the lever which has had no threads cut thro`. It has used the same principle you find on aftermarket rear wiper arms on todays suv`s the wiper spindle is splined. The aftermarket wiper arm has a hole that is not splined. The arm goes onto the spindle forced on by the securing nut. The arm insert is a very soft metal and the spindle splines gouge splines onto the wiper arm securing it in place. No problem unless you want the arm off again which is unlikely for a while. So the carb.... idle adjusting screw has been force screwed into the threadless nut and threads are cut by the screw. Only found this out when I unscrewed the adjuster to ensure threads were all clear in readiness for setting the initial butterfly gap. Undoing this screw all but removes any thread from the "nut". Screws have gone back in but I don`t know how often they will turn in and out. Hoping the final adjustment will ball that is needed with these... Moral ..... take real care with the idle adjusting screws so as not to strip them completely. I will be replacing these arms and screw sections for something that suits the purpose.

Again..... take real care undoing the nut on the end of the throttle spindles which is necessary to fit the operating levers on the CB setup. Ensure the force used cannot bend the spindle. (It`s a 12mm nut with a locking tab).   Just realised when taking photo I have these levers fitted wrong. Outer spacer in wrong place. Left the locking tabs knocked back until all is aligned so just need to undo the nut again.

CB air filters..

The bases for these air filters have been really well thought out. As well as the inbuilt clamp that secures the air filter base to the carb throat one of the carb top half bolts are removed and replaced with a spacer and long bolt which gives a very stable fit.

Air filters themselves.  These also are of really good quality      and are of the old school type that require oiling..

I use K & N oil from an aerosol which is a bit more expensive than buying the pour bottle type but application is much easier and you use less oil and get minimal drain off.  I am not a fan of the oil colour tho` but do understand it helps to judge when there is sufficient oil on filter.  It`s a pinkish red colour, (see photo).

It`s important to oil this type of mesh filter.  (VW got it right with the mesh "oil bath" air filter which was what was on all my beetles).  It`s the oil that catches the muck. The wire mesh and the cloth stucture will do nothing of note in the way of filtering the incoming air. The mesh is for support and protection. The cloth is simply a material to "wick" the oil.

How to oil......  Apply oil from aerosol/bottle neck to the outer surface only. Don`t put any on the internal surfaces.  Leave the filter/s to absorb the oil throughout it`s structure. This will take some hours. Leave overnight to drain, (as long as you have not over done things only a few dribbles will fall away). If sufficient all has been added you will see after leaving overnight that the inner surface are evenly the same colour as the outside was earlier.

If not add a bit more.  (It doesn`t take a lot of oil for this size of filter).  With the original VW oil bath filter I simply soaked the filter mesh in petrol and cleaned out the housing with the same. Don`t be tempted to clean with modern E5 or E10. This will eat away the gaskets and very probably the "cloth" material as well.

Lots of nuts, joints threads and so on

CB Performance Linkage......

Take care assembling. Especially when tightening the small threaded studs that secure left and right actuating arms and the central lever for the accelerator cable.  These studs are allen socket heads and fragile. Only use a 1/8" Imperial allen key for this. Try using a metric one you will find it is a slack fit and the grub screws will end up scrap.

Refer to photo`s to see which bits I am giving metric spanner sizes for.....

Throttle spindle nuts... these are 12mm across the flats.
Hex Bar Supports.... Innrer 10mm / Outer 13mm
Helm  Joint... Inner 10mm / Outer 9mm
Helm Joint Extension... Carb side 9mm.

Helm Joints to connecting Rods     2 x LH threads & 2 x Right and threads. For each rod have the left hand thread at to top and the right hand thread to the bottom

Advice from CBP is to centralise the Hex Bar. Common sense but note centred between carb air filter base uprights, not centrally to the engine itself. (This difference due to the carbs being identical and not handed,

The Hex Bar is held in place by ball ended piece each side that fits into a deep drilling in bar end. There is a spring for each end. Put a bit of grease on spring so that it doesn`t fall out during assembly. Hex Rod free play should be approx` 1/8".

I am not sure yet what I think of the Weber 34ICT.....

considering how long they have been available, how many are sold & how many are fitted to aircooled engines across the globe I am really surprised that no effort has been made to produce them "handed", (although here I am assuming they haven`t).

Two things I would point out... 1),  as they are not "handed" the offside carb has the fuel inlet pointing "inwards" to the engine and that`s perfect for hose connection. The nearside mounted carb has the fuel inlet pointing away from the engine so the hose needs to do a tight curve  back over.  Not ideal for flexi hose. (Pity the old school method of having carb inlet and fuel pump connections "conex" type fittings on hard lines has disappeared).
                                             2). the rods operating the throttle linkage connect to lever arms that both point to the left. Nearside , no 4 ignition lead is clear of lever extension piece but offside has the extension piece moving down towards no 2 ignition lead and the lead has to be severely curved in order that when throttle is depressed and the extension piece comes down over the extension piece & lead do not collide. This curvature of the lead will cause premature failure.

Take Note.... anyone going down the route of twin ICT`s and using the CB manifolds.......  I have spent cash on replacing the original fan shroud with the "circular version. This was not necessary - the CB manifolds sweep out over and are quite tall.... This obviously to give clearance for the original style shroud.

The second photo shows the fuel pressure gauge in place during the initial check of fuel line pressure between fuel regulator  outlet and carb inlet with both float chambers full of petrol and hence needle valves closed.
The Malpassi is set from factory at 2.5psi which is what I want to start with.  With both float chambers full and needle valves closed the pressure remained constant at 2.5psi for the half hour duration I had the system up to pressure and pump off. A look down the carb throats showed that they remained dry throughout so happy that I should not "over fuel"   I will be watching this carefully until I can determine that this initial 2.5psi against a dead end and the engine not drawing fuel will remain satisfactory or if I might need to go a little higher to maintain both float bowls throughout full throttle runs.





Now then.... Have bought another pile of crap....   The only excuse I have to offer is that it is temporary....  See photo.... the crankcase breather..    What an idiotic mushroom looking thing. Stands out like a "sore thumb"  literally 
Anyway having gone twin carbs I lose the original crankcase breather hose running to the air filter. (Sadly this is an important feature of the type 1 engine). Have put this thing on as a stop gap until I can determine wether routing to the offside air filter will affect the balance between carbs or not.

This mushroom thing isn`t expensive but it is totally rubbish..... It`s made of chineseum metal but equally bad is the rest of the materials. It certainly cannot be called an "effective crankcase breather...... Not to worry it is what it is and I am pretty sure it will be going walkabout soon.

I have fitted the rocker box breather unions into the top of the cone filters above the 34ict carbs and cross piped them with a T to the case vent port, fitting the filter restricts the port that should be suction and it will eventually become blocked.

Cheers snoopy