Hi all , as  i mentioned a while back ,i saw a buggy build in progress at evil bens where he had linked the rear shock towers together and also to the gearbox  / floorpan somehow. I wonder if anyone else has seen or done this to their buggy to stop rear end and shifter shake over rough roads/ potholes etc. Didnt take note of exactly where he had connected it all together, but would be good to firm up the shaking and rattling i get occasionally.

It stops or reduces the frame horn flex both ours have a bar from top shock mtg to top shock mtg then a bar angled down to the end of the frame horns. Do a web searchon it amd you will see some nice but expensive brace kits.
Ours are home made  is box section across and tubes down the other all tube.

  http://www.machine7.com/section.php?xSec=2627

Thanks chaps, see the machine seven ones are expensive like you say, do yours jusr bolt up solid with no rose joints or rod ends ? Any pics would be helpful , would be quite up for making my own 👍

You're probably best with lh and rh threaded rose joints so that you can put the frame horns and shock towers under slight tension.

If you did something like this could you then use the cross bar as a brace to terminate the rear members of a roll cage on? I have seen a lot of cages are bolted to the rear of the tub with spreader plates but was looking for something more substantial...?

Cheers,

Paul.

If you got a roll cage it not hard work to do I did this in my old oval for less than £80 in new bit's, I have welded just gusset plates on the bottom of the frame horns but no pics

DA is going the extra mile on fabrication I just welded a plate with a bolt hole in on the horn then used a threaded tube down to it the a bolt screwed in either end to set the length locked off with a lock nut against the tube,. No rose joints or swivels just bolted solid.. Busy today but will find or get photos when I can

Quote from: snoopy on June 25, 2017, 08:58:39 AM
DA is going the extra mile on fabrication I just welded a plate with a bolt hole in on the horn then used a threaded tube down to it the a bolt screwed in either end to set the length locked off with a lock nut against the tube,. No rose joints or swivels just bolted solid.. Busy today but will find or get photos when I can

Brilliant , thanks snoopy, and between th shock mounts,  just a solid bar with bent tabs each end to align with the shock mounts and longer bolts ?

Yes then brackets at an angle off there for the top bolts. My down tubes are beetle steering column pieces with a nut welded each end allows you to screw the end bolts in to the tube to get the tension.
Will try an get some photos onto photo bucket.

this is the jas adjustable on the bottom end only fitted forwards of the drive shaft to give me easier access to the clutch starter area.


the kango from the top but still visible

Quote from: snoopy on June 25, 2017, 01:03:09 PM
Yes then brackets at an angle off there for the top bolts. My down tubes are beetle steering column pieces with a nut welded each end allows you to screw the end bolts in to the tube to get the tension.
Will try an get some photos onto photo bucket.

this is the jas adjustable on the bottom end only fitted forwards of the drive shaft to give me easier access to the clutch starter area.


the kango from the top but still visible

Great photos snoopy , thank you, i will start getting metal sorted, did you notice a big difference from this mod ? 👍

only thing is the bit that flex is the ends of the frame horn IRS more as there is not a lot of meat to start   That fuel pump is made to push not pull so is best next to the tank, and sit up!

We end up do a lot like pic as/cheap I did biuld one that was shock tower to tower will have look for pic was just a bit of T45 that had a bolt weld in the end and a flage so you would bolt each in as shock bolts than bolted the flanges and had 2 rose joint bars come off that bolted to the mount

IDA fuel pump is fine down there as the fuel flows from the tank by gravity and in my opinion safer than having pressurised line in and around the passenger compartment that last one died of severe corrosion after 5 years exposure to the winter salt.

The kango one as you say goes from the end because of the engine weight and power the horns hold.