Doon..... I am tied up with ongoing family issues that crept up on me just before the xmas weekend so my plans will stall for some more days. The Eurocarb kit arrived earlier this week and I have put it in the loft to stop my missus from complaining at stuff laid about. I think, but will take a look asap, that the throttle linkage system is American. A quick glance made me think that the two supports are really bulky, (that`s not to say they are not well made). I am pretty sure they are not German CSP parts or I would have recognised the distinctive packaging they have. When you have a bit of time can you take a photo from the buggy rear to show me roughly how the alternator is bridged. Thank you in advance. 

Here is my hex linkage



Couldn't use it as the lift arms for the carbs fouled the body.
This is what I use so the arm runs under not over the alternator






Not brilliant pics but you can see how it works

55 Idles
135 Mains
F6 Emulsions
160 air correctors

Work well with 1600-1641 engines

Rob

Thanks guys   

i run twin Weber 34 ICT's on my Buggy & Baja great carb when jetted and set up correctly

here is a great guide -

https://www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/


my jet specs -

i run on my 1641cc TP 110 Engle Cam - F6 Tubes 160 MAINS 60 IDLES & 60 PUMP JETS  160 air correction I RUN 52MM Velocity stacks on mines so more fuel is required
                  1600cc TP standard Cam - F6 Tube 155 mains 55 idles & 60 pump jet 52mm stacks

Without stacks i used to the 145 mains 45 idles 50 pump jet 160 airs 

I have read the above with interest and done the interweb of things to death trawling around and finding loads of different but similar suggestions as to jetting for 34 ICTs so any help here would be gladly received....
A recent clean and overhaul prompted my enthusiasm to try and get these properly set up and at least enjoy some time out on the road..
They obviously run but there have always been issues / niggles, rough running, popping on de-accelerating, hesitation when stomping on the throttle, difficulty starting.


I'm running a standard 1600 single port type 1 engine with mechanical fuel pump, electronic SVDA and malpassi filterking.
Plugs and leads are good.. timing good, valve clearance good,
Current set up is ...
Air correction 160
Idle 52
Main 135
Needle Valve 150
Floats good and set at 8mm clearance
Balance tube between manifolds
Vacuum tube to both carbs
Breather tube from oil filler to RH filter with extension down to the carb top.


Set up using a snail type vacuum gauge and idle / mix screws are both within expected tolerance .. the engine idles great at 850-950 but when giving it some pedal when driving is causing hesitation on acceleration and popping if you lift off at around 50ish mph.
Are the idles too small? I can up to 55s?
Are the mains too big? I can go up or down to 130 or 145... or is my jetting spot on and I'm missing something ??
🤔

I once tried then oil breather to one filter, went round the block and removed it.
Ran far better without

If you want rare carb set ups I still have cartune twin Reece fish carbs as well as single Reece carbs.and some su Stromberg single carb s / adapters

Had a friend with a 1600 tp buggy using an 1 1/2 SU carb on a home made adaptor it worked fine.

Had Dave Mayer round last week to set up his Twin Weber 34 ICT Carbs after he has had alot of issues. i think the new E5 & E10 FUELS means jets have to be increased for the additional methanol in the fuel , i would say alot of E10 has more than 10% in 

1600 twin port engine
Weber 34 ICT Carbs
52mm Velocity stacks

Final set up jet sizes and it now runs great ( we did have to strip and clean the carbs ) -

60 idle jets
60 pump jets
160 mains
180 airs
150 needle valve

hope this helps 

I think this last post really proves that each case is likely to differ. In setting up my carbs, and I took quite some time ensuring that all was as well as could be, I eventually got there. My point is, and the experience brookster describes, is typical of my experience. There is no jet type set up that suits all. On a stock type 1 twinport you need to find the right combination for your engine.

Typical stand out issue that I found...... As also described by brookster..... Engine will rev from a good idle to max revs with no problem and snap back to idle again. On the road, ie with engine "under load" the engine will respond to a low throttle opening smoothly. Then as revs increase it does the hesitating, popping/farting/stuttering thing. As you push thro` this with pedal to the floor it smooths out brilliantly. Initially I expected vacuum issue and distributor unit worn/leaking and engine not advancing as it should. It wasn`t. It wasn`t dirt etc in carb.

Also in my case the jet sizes proved to be the key to a smooth, under load response.

In respect of weber carbs on a twin port 1600 in a standard spec I believe that VW got it right with the 34 bit. (Yes I know two carbs not one in twin scenario but that`s not relevent). There is quite a difference in "airflow thro the carb" when comparing 34 to 40 and above. The larger the diameter the LOWER the airflow and this is an important factor and I am certain it`s why VW optimised it`s develeopment at the 34 stage. A carb benefits from a higher air flow rather than lower for lack of better words.

Anyway, in my opinion brookster, you deserve a pat on the back. You persevered and you got a result. Thats worth the frustration I think.

Anyone who has read my posts over the years will have noticed my repeated advice to keep the engine running until fully warm regularly right through the year. When I say fully warm I mean just that. Having monitored my engine year round I know that yes the oil heats up quickly but it takes at least 20 minutes for the engine to heat up thoroughly when on the road.(OIL temperature monitoring is just an early warning of an issue at best in a buggy).

Run the engine regularly to get fuel flowing thro the carbs. Over the years of my build I have had E5 petrol in varied containers some of which would have petrol in for weeks, some for months and some longer. In an effort by manufacturers to get their fuels to meet the RON requirement they have added all sorts of crap to reach the OCTANE parameter. I am no expert but I believe it`s these addatives that are suspended in the bio ethanol soaked "petrol" and especially the fact that ethanol soaks up water like a sponge you have the best case scenario for this water and crap to fall out of suspension and when still form horrible gunge and white particles when the engine stands for weeks. These will clog a jet in no time. I have seen ths crap floating in the container/bottle and upon shaking it`s almos like a christmas globe. What you cannot see initially is the greasy crap that forms on surfaces of the bottle that turns to a brown almost shellac like residue.

Again I say Well Done 

Had Dave Mayer round last week to set up his Twin Weber 34 ICT Carbs after he has had alot of issues. i think the new E5 & E10 FUELS means jets have to be increased for the additional methanol in the fuel , i would say alot of E10 has more than 10% in 

1600 twin port engine
Weber 34 ICT Carbs
52mm Velocity stacks

Final set up jet sizes and it now runs great ( we did have to strip and clean the carbs ) -

60 idle jets
60 pump jets
160 mains
180 airs
150 needle valve

hope this helps 

Did you check the float arm gap at a point prior to everything settling out.  Would like to know for future reference

Don't know if it's the same with petrol but bio diesel gets bacterial growth in it if stored too long. Look like little globs of brown and grey snot.

Everyone should have finished their breakfast by now 

I think this last post really proves that each case is likely to differ. In setting up my carbs, and I took quite some time ensuring that all was as well as could be, I eventually got there. My point is, and the experience brookster describes, is typical of my experience. There is no jet type set up that suits all. On a stock type 1 twinport you need to find the right combination for your engine.

Typical stand out issue that I found...... As also described by brookster..... Engine will rev from a good idle to max revs with no problem and snap back to idle again. On the road, ie with engine "under load" the engine will respond to a low throttle opening smoothly. Then as revs increase it does the hesitating, popping/farting/stuttering thing. As you push thro` this with pedal to the floor it smooths out brilliantly. Initially I expected vacuum issue and distributor unit worn/leaking and engine not advancing as it should. It wasn`t. It wasn`t dirt etc in carb.

Also in my case the jet sizes proved to be the key to a smooth, under load response.

In respect of weber carbs on a twin port 1600 in a standard spec I believe that VW got it right with the 34 bit. (Yes I know two carbs not one in twin scenario but that`s not relevent). There is quite a difference in "airflow thro the carb" when comparing 34 to 40 and above. The larger the diameter the LOWER the airflow and this is an important factor and I am certain it`s why VW optimised it`s develeopment at the 34 stage. A carb benefits from a higher air flow rather than lower for lack of better words.

Anyway, in my opinion brookster, you deserve a pat on the back. You persevered and you got a result. Thats worth the frustration I think.

Anyone who has read my posts over the years will have noticed my repeated advice to keep the engine running until fully warm regularly right through the year. When I say fully warm I mean just that. Having monitored my engine year round I know that yes the oil heats up quickly but it takes at least 20 minutes for the engine to heat up thoroughly when on the road.(OIL temperature monitoring is just an early warning of an issue at best in a buggy).

Run the engine regularly to get fuel flowing thro the carbs. Over the years of my build I have had E5 petrol in varied containers some of which would have petrol in for weeks, some for months and some longer. In an effort by manufacturers to get their fuels to meet the RON requirement they have added all sorts of crap to reach the OCTANE parameter. I am no expert but I believe it`s these addatives that are suspended in the bio ethanol soaked "petrol" and especially the fact that ethanol soaks up water like a sponge you have the best case scenario for this water and crap to fall out of suspension and when still form horrible gunge and white particles when the engine stands for weeks. These will clog a jet in no time. I have seen ths crap floating in the container/bottle and upon shaking it`s almos like a christmas globe. What you cannot see initially is the greasy crap that forms on surfaces of the bottle that turns to a brown almost shellac like residue.

Again I say Well Done 

Totally with you on this - there are basic guides which help get close, but the ultimate set up is very specific to your engine if you want it spot on.   The carbs Brookster is referring too were originally on my buggy.  They were set up on a rolling road and were spot on.  However when Dave put them on his he has a very different set up.  He has protected his filters from heavy rain and this changes the airflow. 

Also agree about the engine temp.  My one was on the rolling road for 20 mins before he stated the fine tuning and the final set up.   

One other thing which I always find amusing is the amount of people who shout out about changing fuel lines to Ethanol rated (which I have done) who then forget all the rubber "0" rings in carbs that are not ethanol rated.   On my Dells the O rings were degrading and little bits of rubber were blocking my jets.  Swapped them for Ethanol rated and all good since.   

yes check the float gap always do (8mm)

i would recommend a wideband kit for anyone who wants to check your AFR's and adjust the jets

i run a wideband kit on both Aircooled VW's and you can see the AFR's ratio' change with E5 & E10 fuels ( i run Super unleaded E5 Most of the time )

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404688730265?itmmeta=01J2DV3K8GRAAK4DBS8973C3N8&hash=item5e3953f899:g:SD4AAOSwrrtmOj~L&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8BUTWHvqhF%2FNptcYQIstEg6jTkYwKZN0WC%2BSIVQ%2BHO4NXhJH6bOBl2rIV96TGwW9Fk2EuFEOUwVJ3i2ytTAMQi1XmG02J0uxDk0EChah83eECYpn3V6ytsxXAKSfxQitQ6psS6NH3aZRY2JwyArUDID%2FVemxRqboxU7ChN0c%2Bi4ApTNAzuWuW5vYn0ryh%2BjLoxOQp1jShysWjIACRfeI7sAYU7GWm5mZ2DbvlNMJ1ndIL%2B7ZoeR4tpao1NFaYt%2B0o6tMFs8Bk8ln1J2yXQ%2B4dIYLj7cHtvdy8zujCxV57lTU2uez1uMlSbxAPr%2Fzbvv%2BJQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMqrSOu5Nk