Having spent well over 18 months with carburation on my buggy, which has been a real eye opener and I will go thro` the lot asap, I have reached a point whereby I am about to remove the engine again in order to fit twin Weber ICT34`s.  The pair I have just purchased, after eeking out last years state pension, are from Eurocarb and said to be genuine Weber rather than Chinese copies. Time will tell if there is a marked difference.

These carbs now come with F6 emulsion tubes which seems to have been the result of customer demand. The web is littered with stuff regarding this. The two carbs come with 150 main jets. Of course you will not settle out a carb, one or more, just swapping out emulsion tube or main jet, So as a starting point is anyone on the forum running twin ict`s and if so what main jet size are you using. I have had a 30/31 Solex on my buggy for quite some time. It runs great but with a 150 main jet it delivered far too much fuel and I had to go down in size until the mixture was right and not greatly over rich.

Any comment/help in this respect I will greatly appreciate and will update in full in time. On a basic engine no rolling road is necessary. I will be using vacuum gauges and air flow meter for tuning, (Hopefully at my age I have retained the patience for "tuning in" twin carbs... it is a long slow process) 

I run them but no idea what jet size.
Mine came from the States but made in Spain,  go figure

Bought jets from Eurocarb following their advice,  rolling roaded and had mains increased. Problems with overheating and Farmer Rob came to the rescue with a suggested jet size, been fine ever since.

I ditched the supplied hex linkage,  it fouled the body anyway, and used the bar as a useful rack for wiring spools.  I have a centrally mounted pivot system, CSP I think

55/130 mains

An easy guide according to weber for idle jet size is the mixture screw 1.5 to 1.75 turns out from fully in to far either side of that retrospectively is to large jet or too small.

If you have purchased from Eurocarb, then suggest to blow through all of the internal airways and galleys BEFORE trying to fit them as my experience from that Company is far from great.

No problems with the ICT's - Brilliant Carbs and run them myself, but Eurocarb are far from being the "Clean" specialists that they may out to me, in fact their standards of rebuilds, cleanliness, testing and Customer Service are amongst the worst out there - Trouble is, there are precious few alternatives, and boy, do they know that.

Just check the carbs over carefully before messing about too much to prevent any false readings from leftover debris inside.

Cheers Dave.... It`s sound advice.  Any carb, especially new, needs to be dismantled and cleaned out/thro... Trike was best for this but as the chemical is frowned upon for amateur use nowadays generic carb cleaner is probably a good bet.  The thing to be careful of is not to damage jets and passageways by poking without care and do not overtighten any needle valving....

I bought the carbs etc as a kit and it did come with with the transverse linkage but as I type I cannot remember if it was german or states supply. More on it in my build thread as I go thro` things....

Thanks to all you guys responding.... they say you are never too old to learn and that`s very true.  (Wish somebody did a dual SU side draught conversion then I would think I was back in the good old days of my youth.. )

I used this site for guidance

https://www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/

Doon..... I am tied up with ongoing family issues that crept up on me just before the xmas weekend so my plans will stall for some more days. The Eurocarb kit arrived earlier this week and I have put it in the loft to stop my missus from complaining at stuff laid about. I think, but will take a look asap, that the throttle linkage system is American. A quick glance made me think that the two supports are really bulky, (that`s not to say they are not well made). I am pretty sure they are not German CSP parts or I would have recognised the distinctive packaging they have. When you have a bit of time can you take a photo from the buggy rear to show me roughly how the alternator is bridged. Thank you in advance. 

Cheers Dave.... It`s sound advice.  Any carb, especially new, needs to be dismantled and cleaned out/thro... Trike was best for this but as the chemical is frowned upon for amateur use nowadays generic carb cleaner is probably a good bet.  The thing to be careful of is not to damage jets and passageways by poking without care and do not overtighten any needle valving....

I bought the carbs etc as a kit and it did come with with the transverse linkage but as I type I cannot remember if it was german or states supply. More on it in my build thread as I go thro` things....

Thanks to all you guys responding.... they say you are never too old to learn and that`s very true.  (Wish somebody did a dual SU side draught conversion then I would think I was back in the good old days of my youth.. )

You'll be wanting to look for a Speedwell Sprint kit with twin Stromberg carbs...and a pair of single port heads of course...

Never seen one of these Dave.   Stromberg were, as you will know very common back in the 60`s / 70.s . Do you know if Speedwell survived as a company ?

Seeing the strombergs on a beetle (their diaphragm splitting was the weak spot changed many when at vauxhall dealers) We used a 1.5" SU on a 1600 buggy with a home made adaptor to fit the manifold it solves clearance problems under some buggy bodies and ran well.

Never seen one of these Dave.   Stromberg were, as you will know very common back in the 60`s / 70.s . Do you know if Speedwell survived as a company ?

After many hiccups they folded in the mid 70s

"Speedwell History" https://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/spdhist.htm

Seeing the strombergs on a beetle (their diaphragm splitting was the weak spot changed many when at vauxhall dealers) We used a 1.5" SU on a 1600 buggy with a home made adaptor to fit the manifold it solves clearance problems under some buggy bodies and ran well.

Split diaphragms can cause a lot of problems 

Split diaphragms can cause a lot of problems 

Although stromberg`s were as common as su`s for some reason I favoured the su. Had twins on a 1970`s spitfire among other cars. What I do remember is that there were mechanics who had developed the ability to "tune" multiple carbs by ear using nothing more than an ear to judge airflow into each carb. Although I tried this I couldn`t separate out what I was hearing from 1 carb adjacent the next one.

I came across many that had been really mis handled. Missing absorbant pad, dry of oil, too much oil, buckled springs and distorted needle ends.

Those were the days.... an engine and ancillaries could be really worn but on they would go forever almost just lots of blue smoke on acceleration and over run.     2 stroke motor bikes with a mile long blue trail behind them... On it goes with memories coming back ... a neighbour with a two stroke Saab 94. (This was a car I really liked).