Top welded in and brake lines in



Bottom I got see as I may plate it but think I can do better! I will gusset the forks why I'm at it to help stop fork flex

can you v cut the sides of the bottom plate so it will bend up level with the rear plate then weld the join and the closed v cut, you could put a bridge plate on top of the rear before bending the tunnel bottom up for more strength.

can you v cut the sides of the bottom plate so it will bend up level with the rear plate then weld the join and the closed v cut, you could put a bridge plate on top of the rear before bending the tunnel bottom up for more strength.

That is the way I was thinking to give it a clean look and to save any  at mot time But not a lot of room to get a cutter to cut it will see today If I can ..still got 2 fuel lines to fit as well

Will clean it up and weld it in tomorrow I did a lot of pipe work in the tunnel in the bit of time I had today..

More welds to clean

Well I was looking at some old pic of the buggy with 10" rims and 295/50/15 boots and the tyres sit way out and to get the wheels deep up in the body as I would like. the wheels need? to go back 2"!!... So as I can add track but not take it away faster... I"m going to take 2" each side more out For a fall 10" narrowed rear  I will put the body back on and move the wheels as needed so I can cut the arms as needed

Wouldn`t it have be easier to widen the bodywork?   

The pics of that chassis you're welding (with blue rear forks) appears to have narrowed rear torsion tubes already. (you can see the weld/rusty join)

Jon

Wouldn`t it have be easier to widen the bodywork?   

Yes it would but  I have no drive and to get it in and out my garden its a panel fence job. And they look  if widen

The pics of that chassis you're welding (with blue rear forks) appears to have narrowed rear torsion tubes already. (you can see the weld/rusty join)

Jon

I know it has. as I did it but only a total of 6"

I'm out for a clean? safe! look no wheels out the body line etc. at that I may fiberglass the back lip! Back to stock as it looks  To recut and weld the tubes is not hard Getting it to ride right is the hard bit!! But air bags will help. . This is a pic of a 9" cut but with T-bars no lift.

Pipe work all in..

Arm having a dip 12v for 12hrs



Now striped so will go back in for 12hrs

common failure the bump stop rubber mountings rotting off.

common failure the bump stop rubber mountings rotting off.

Going to flip the arms and cut a lot out and will be making new bump stops