I must've forgotten the SA bit. Yes, the later trans mount would be correct for 75 and South Africa kept with K&L fronts until the end of production there iirc. I think they were stronger on rough roads.

 Front "torsion bars. 1 from top bar, another in the bottom. Both identical. Each made up of two slats side by side top and also bottom. Single slats in between. See how they build up to make a hollow depression for the securing stud. Clean all the crap from in the beams. Put a torch up one end. Have a look up the other, and no don`t blind yerself See the cross shaped hole in the centre the bars go through. Ok.. with your cleaned, greased bars get a 1" strip of gaffa tape. Wrap around 1 end of bars about 1" from the end. Tape will stick to itself. Torch down 1 end again. Look through from other end, note how the cross shaped hole is aligned and push and feed the bars gently up to the centre support hole & push through. The gaffa tape won`t go through but will slide back towards you. If you want the tape out of there just keep pushing the bars on through but not all the way through the hole. Go to the sticking out end and push back but all way through hole. The tape will be seen and you can pull it off the end. Push bars back to central position and fit and screw down the grub screw and tighten lock nut. (Needed to replace 2 of my grub screws due to rounded out hex. Noted that the repro ones are much more tapered so rounded off with a grinder so they fit snugly into bar depressions. You will need a cuppa of something now. ;-)(-;Don`t bother washing the greasy crap off your hands. It won`t hurt you honest. After 40 years of eating garage grime tea, bacon sarnie`s biscuits just don`t taste the same with clean hands.  

Good tip with  the Gaffa tape, I used a cable tie which I just left in there

Quote from: Manxdavid on October 18, 2016, 01:20:34 PM
I must've forgotten the SA bit. Yes, the later trans mount would be correct for 75 and South Africa kept with K&L fronts until the end of production there iirc. I think they were stronger on rough roads.

  Many thanks David    You have cleared up a worrying aspect for me. I wondered if this donor had been a 1975 shell married up to an earlier chassis. My views of DVLA relating to past changes, queries etc have not left me with any respect of the people manning the phones ability to give any meaningful help. Just the opposite. different views, lost paperwork and such. I think I will be safe asking one last question. I know that VW would sell you a chassis without a vin number as they classed a replacement chassis as a "spare part". You then could legitimately stamp in the original vin number. Do you know if any S African bugs were built without a vin number stamped into the tunnel top?

Quote from: Doon L001 on October 18, 2016, 01:50:47 PM
Good tip with  the Gaffa tape, I used a cable tie which I just left in there

Hi Doon... Yep.. I was about to look for a cable tie but my 6 year old grandson was around and if I leave any about and am not watching him he loops them together making them useless. Try to keep him away from them cos I have this vision of him tightening one on his wrist as a bracelet   Maybe not so funny eh. Still 6 years old helping his old granddad and so far he hasn`t lost any chunks or bits from his hands and such

Quote from: Paul1953 on October 18, 2016, 01:57:50 PMDo you know if any S African bugs were built without a vin number stamped into the tunnel top?

No idea. You may want to email or msg 'Pine' (aka Adrian Pinaar) on here. He's from there and a bit of a buggy/VW guru.

Link pin would be pre-66 but you also have the 66on pedal assembly so it's a right "wrongun'!". Perfect for a buggy! All pans come as LHD I believe. Not much difference apart from the captive nut for the pedal stop plate and the hole in the rear for the brake line.

Guys.... Please .... if you see any of my posts whereby you have had a problem yourselves don`t hesitate to point out the error of my ways. I won`t feel insulted and throw a strop. Joined the forum for help.  I do now realise it`s a case of 1 step forward and 2 back 

Iva Specific bit... Fuel tank mod`s for compliance.  Photo below shows top of tank. Original "fuel- in" hole capped off, top left of photo, and re-located inlet stem welded in place.  Split side with bolt and nut to secure the flip top filler cap. (Top right section of tank profile cut away and capped off is not for compliance. This was for clearance of Manx "bonnet"). Bottom right of photo.. Small pipe welded onto a plate and welded to tank for "breather pipe.
Second photo... tank bottom. Two fuel outlets. One for drain off and the other fuel outlet to carb. Screwed connector for earth lead.
Third photo... Flip top filler cap gets around the wired separate cap issue. Screwed connector for drain off with open\shut valve. (This valve has to be accessible from the side of the vehicle to allow tank draining in an emergency). A quick note on gaskets etc. On older vehicles, pre 70`s, cork was used in fuel systems for sealing. I do not know if this material is still acceptable but will ask during the inspection. It may be that cork is usable if of the cork\neoprene mix. As a rule of thumb opt for a more modern material. Believe it or not there is a requirement to prevent petrol fumes from entering the tub area even though a buggy is open to the air. See later for  a mod needed to go someway to comply and is accepted during a inspection.

2nd IVA Specific photo

3rd IVA Specific Photo & Some additional notes.
Tank must be vented. Small dia hose ok but ensure it has a 360 degree loop in it.
Tank must have means of draining at roadside etc.
Tank must be earthed and lead, connections visible. Connections must be insulated correctly Not with leccy`s tape.
Fuel filler cap, if a separate to filler neck must be linked via a wire for earth continuity. (I have opted for one piece to get round this. Cap unscrews from neck for ease of placement)
All leads & hoses must not rub against each other and must be securely fixed at regular points.
There is no requirement at the moment for the an emergency "flip over" cut off valve.

 Nice work.

Just a note though for anyone else building a Manx or Manx derived kit, Sidewinder, GP etc check that you've got clearance underneath for the steering damper etc before painting, as a little bit of hammer work is often needed.

Quote from: Manxdavid on October 19, 2016, 10:56:13 AM
Nice work.

Just a note though for anyone else building a Manx or Manx derived kit, Sidewinder, GP etc check that you've got clearance underneath for the steering damper etc before painting, as a little bit of hammer work is often needed.

Thanks David....  Forgot that bit. You are 100% correct... the tank needs a bit of walloping for clearance. I also forgot to state that the buggy must be taken for IVA check with a full tank of petrol and the fuel gauge must work reasonably accurately. (You can, if you have better eyesight than I now have, and a steady hand adjust the beetle fuel gauge).

Do you still get a full set of body mount brackets etc with Euro Manx kits like you used to with US and the first batch of UK kits or would Mark prefer you to buy his?

 Last post for a little while.. Front beam going on. Note I have the torsion arms fitted with shockers "hanging there". This to give some idea of clearance, if any, for the front of the body. As I have mentioned earlier I am working in a really limited covered space. I now wish I had got the body much earlier but I guess as with all new builds, especially when there is the need to modify from original, you just find that you are having to work back over just to get to what is finally needed to make it work. Yes lot`s of cursing but it is fun Honestly My posts regarding IVA compliance will jump about a bit. When I get to the end of things and have got through the IVA I will re-visit things and arrange in a dedicated thread what was done in total. What worked first time round, what didn`t and what was needed to finalise things. If I am still sane by then I will consider posting the experience with DVLA as I understand there have been changes recently. It would seem, maybe, that it will no longer be necessary to take your newly IVA compliant buggy to your nearest DVLA Inspection Centre for there guy to check it over before they will issue you with a new registration number. This would seem, if correct, to be due to closure of these centres due to cost saving re-structures.