YEEK! After many MANY years of wanting a buggy, I'm finally in the position to start!
I think I've found (well, my friend has found) a swing axle chassis as a good starting point.
It's shortened and prepared but naked. No front beam or anything like that.
If I can get it, it's a little more than I wanted to pay but all the bits I can't do have been done already, so that's very good.
The question is...
Where do I start?!? 

Do I need to look for anything specific in a front beam? I'd like adjustable suspension so sway-aways would be good I guess... and am I right in thinking that with a 1776, I'd be ok on standard brakes all round?
I'd like to go as stock and straight forward as possible for the buggy really and I'm aiming for a Manx 2.

just a couple of things has the chassis been shortened for a manx shell as not all bodies are the same length and do you require a ball joint or king and link pin beam

Nothing wrong with drum brakes at all..... but if you are starting from scratch then surely it makes sense to go the disc brake route - you just need to decide on your wheel choice first so that you have the right PCD for them.

Oh and since you are starting from the very beginning you might as well build to SVA/IVA standards - it makes a lot more sense these days. 

Quote from: chrisbarker on August 19, 2015, 11:00:22 AM
just a couple of things has the chassis been shortened for a manx shell as not all bodies are the same length and do you require a ball joint or king and link pin beam

WHS^^^ What was it shortened to fit or what buggy body was fitted to it? Most old UK kits needed a 15 3/4 inch chop but Manxes and other US deived kits were a bit longer needing a 14 1/4 inch cut, others like Bugle 2's, Hustlers and Jas's a 12 inch cut.

Is there a V5C with the chassis, does the vin match the chassis and what's it registered as?

What year is it? 66 on ball joint pans tend to be easier and cheaper for parts.

My buggy has a shorten 64 chassis with ball joint front and standard torsion rear , it all so has drums all round , which I was going up grade to discs , but it stops ok , so I have not. It only has a 1500 , but with twin carbs , and it goes quick enough to give you a scare . Buggies can empty you wallet quicker than you wife and kids , so don't go to mad at first, keep it simple you can always up grade later

Just to add on the brakes comments ... I have a 1776 with a possible 117bhp but still only have drums all round and they are fine and I do about 6k miles a year (a pain to keep adjusting them admittedly). Speaking with Krug the other week on this subject - it also depends on the are you drive. Crazy I know but think about it, roads around here are just normal. But since he has moved to the Peak District - lots of hills - therefore lots more heavy/prolonged braking therefore Drums aren't really up to the job.

afaik it's been shortened for a manx which is good as that's what I want to make.
I'm finding out the year now.
It says beetle on the v5 so I think i'll have to match s/iva anyway...
I'd like stock smooth banded steelies (like on big red)

forget the bandit they are not worth the hassles and wont balance.re rims or proper aftermarket wheels make much more sense.it just so happens ive just got hold of a predator shell,and ive got 3 other swb shells.im only over the hills in lancashire(right side of the pennines)

As said just build to the iva manual if you can prove enough parts are off the donor you can get an age related plate from my understanding. You will pay road tax so an engine under 1500 is in the lower payment band.

ok... so
if the V5 says beetle rigid axle whatever... is it going to be difficult for me to build a standard/stock SWB manx buggy (albeit with a 1776) AND keep the plate AND keep tax free status?
Can i change the status to 'buggy' without losing the plate and tax or will i definitely have to go through the SVA/IVA to get the status changed?
i totally want to keep within the law, I'd rather not risk the car because of a word on a bit of paper.
I've read your V5 thread, appreciate it's a grey area but .. well.. to be honest I'm scared. lol

The official line is any chassis modification = a IVA test so taken to the extreme an old mini fitted with a side draught weber that needs a hole cutting in the bulkhead to fit it requires a test as the body has been modified the same as bob tailing a landrover.
Build to comply then whatever happens it can legaly be registered.

Quote from: easilydistracted on August 19, 2015, 01:16:14 PM
afaik it's been shortened for a manx which is good as that's what I want to make.
I'm finding out the year now.
It says beetle on the v5 so I think i'll have to match s/iva anyway...
I'd like stock smooth banded steelies (like on big red)

Measure front wheel centre to rear wheel centre in inches and post up the answer. That will tell how much it's been shortened by

Quote from: ben_w on August 21, 2015, 09:12:45 PM

Quote from: easilydistracted on August 19, 2015, 01:16:14 PM
afaik it's been shortened for a manx which is good as that's what I want to make.
I'm finding out the year now.
It says beetle on the v5 so I think i'll have to match s/iva anyway...
I'd like stock smooth banded steelies (like on big red)

Measure front wheel centre to rear wheel centre in inches and post up the answer. That will tell how much it's been shortened by

I dont think it's got any wheels, or axles, or gearbox...

My Manx chassis measures 1375mm from the front of the napoleons hat to the back of the pan cross member.

Thanks parmaynu, that info has helped me realise my garage is too short! I need to make more space!!
Ok, I'm looking at a different chassis now... unfortunately, this one is not tax exempt so i guess i'd have to factor in £170 a year for the robbing crinkholes. booo but it's not a Q plate at least!