I will be asking quite a few things soon and hope you can help...

My engine is in need of a rebuild very soon and it's quite an expensive thing to do, new engines arn't cheap
now and so after looking through it all I am quite certain I can make a reasonable job of it myself and hopefully
save a bit of money. Measuring and setting up the entire contents of the engine isn't an issue at all.

Case Savers - Helicoils Time-Serts - Threaded plugs

What's the generally acknowledged best way to do this, ie insert type,

Time-Serts - I have always liked these and have thought they are a good solution and easy to fit

http://www.crosstools.com.au/time-sert-thread-repair---helicoil-alternative.html#metricts

Threaded Plugs - I can actually make my own, do they need heads on them or are they just a straight cylinder threaded inside and out?

Thanks for anything you can say to ease the way 

Peter

Engine rebuilds are a breeze just be methodical.  Case savers are straight tubes as you say inserted with stud lock on the outer thread.

Yes, thanks Snoopy 

After reading up in my two decent manuals there's not a lot going on in there
but measuring and getting everything together so restoring all the clearances
shouldn't be too bad, as you say, be methodical and it all should be fine.

I have had an idea that if I can I would like to do, and that's to modify and use my CB Performance
Oil filter carrier..... ie, the thing that bolts onto the pump, except I will modify it to be part of a full flow system, blocking
off the return to the pump and just making/fitting an outlet to it's body that will then attach to the case just above it,
full flowing in the process.

Somehow I can't believe they don't offer this as a design option, I can then use a standard pump and
quite like the convenience of it in that I wont have lots of oil carrying tubes hanging everywhere

Peter

Seeing as I am thinking about this....

I just had a measure up and have sketched an oil pump cover that can be machined out
of an 80mm square cube of Aluminium, it will be capable of having a spin on oil filter and have
an outlet direct to the case above, with all the oil passages being at least the same size as VW intended
and without all the issues of tiny oil gallery's (CB Performance Style) that restrict the actual
volume of oil flowing to the cases on the return path.

The idea of a proper full flow in a unit like this has always been something I have thought was able to be done.

Hopefully, if I can I shall have it anodised black or even yellow, the finished shape can be sorted once the oil passage, galleries/holes etc
have been machined.

I will see if the CNC guys can help me out.... 

I have been looking as several ways to do the oil full flow thing and may try a different
take on things using 6mm gauge plate with the standard pump oulet blocked off.

Gauge plate would allow me lots of options for welding an external pillar and routing the oil
through standard good quality fittings, exiting up to the case above.

Would anyone be able to point me in the direction of the good quality stuff in the camshaft department...

I have been looking at these.....

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Engle-W100-Type-1-Camshaft-1-1-or-1-25-Rockers-p/e6100.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Engle-Lifters-Cam-Followers-Type-1-Engines-Set-p/engle-lifters.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dual-Valve-Springs-Regular-Set-of-8-p/dual-valve-spring.htm

Quote from: Peter on July 05, 2015, 09:23:15 AM
Would anyone be able to point me in the direction of the good quality stuff in the camshaft department...

No, but I can give you a warning.

SCAT are a very well known brand of CAMS as we all know, but please be very careful if typing "SCAT CAM" into any search engines   

It may not give quite the result you were expecting - thankfully Google now filter most of that   


And before anyone else tries, it often takes you to some websites and images that really shouldn`t be on the net - SCAT is an American term for Poo, CAM being short for Camera, and it was not a pleasant set of images returned from a toilet cam

You don't need to.....

I mentioned Scat Cams to the guy's at work, now they think its all I'm into..... 

Jeez its a very sad place out there!

On an engine note... I shall be doing a case saving op to the stud threads using Time-Sert's


https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=37&v=-HqXHlgouyg

Quote from: Peter on July 05, 2015, 09:43:58 AM
I mentioned Scat Cams to the guy's at work, now they think its all I'm into..... 

To be fair, they probably thought that already - all you have done is confirm it   

Yeah.... Whatever! 

My lil plan so far is to maybe have the 1300 twin port out of my Beetle and use that while I
have a go at stripping my engine and looking at what needs to be done. I shall use my Sidewinder exhaust
and re jet the Weber to suit the 1300.

I have been having thoughts on the Weber jetting and would like to try something jet wise, as I have always
thought, though my bug runs well, that the primary and secondary jets are far too close in size, after a bit
more research its definitely VERY important to get heat into the manifold/carb, if its not warm enough fuel will
not emulsify properly and there will be a trade off even though the engine is running well, if I can successfully
get more heat in there I hope to be able to have primary main jet in the 125 range and the secondary in the 170 range,
the warmth inside will mean the fuel vaporises far better so the jet size drop will be accommodated due to less fuel being wasted,
I will have a better fuel consumption as a result. With the 2 barrel progressive, heat, lots of it really is the ultimate key.

Will see.... 

Am hoping the crankshaft is ok and I will have it reground if necessary, am wary of all the stuff available
now and have had several high end tuning people tell me to try and keep all the VW original parts that
I can, as the quality of things now is pretty dire.

The Engle W100 cam is a very basic one and should give me the power band I want, as near to standard as possible
though I shall use a set of dual (not strong) valve springs.

Does anyone know what the standard VW cam gear fitting is ? Is it riveted?

If I do this from the cases out I hope I can then improve things as time goes by, due to the cost of it all,
I have also been looking at whats involved in re fitting my head with new guides, so may do that as well,
I have a lightened flywheel already

After a lot of notes and looking into things I think most of the cost of rebuilding an engine is just the labour charge,
as Snoopy said it isnt hard, just be methodical, I have everything known to man as far measuring equipment goes
so I shall be able to do that myself, measuring the cases for straightness and journal diameter can be done manually
or on our co-ordinate measuring equipment at work 

Then its just bearing size selection and get on with it.

Peter

Peter
talking to Dan Simpson recently he is moving away from dual valve springs back to single ones, cant remember the reasoning but as with everything he says it makes sense at the time 
Might be worth a bit of research before you commit to dual springs
Good luck
Looking forward to VW engine rebuild manual as a result of this
Dave

Dave

That's interesting, as I have been thinking about this, in my distant past with my 3/4 race 970 'S' 
the thinking was really that dual springs were needed to slow the onset of valve bounce at high rev's,
the W100 cam, and me, won't be going anywhere near those rev ranges so I have also noted down a set of single springs,
the other thing about dual springs is that they will accelerate cam surface wear, so maybe a set of singles should/will still work fine,
just as they have done for years....

Sometimes, trends in thing's can be very persuasive.... 

I shall try to do a photo album, as at last my interest is coming back, sometimes the need to use
my bug daily for other reasons can be wearing, but I have my faithful old Beetle and can in the meantime
use parts from it whilst my bug engine is being sorted out.

Peter

Quote from: Peter on July 05, 2015, 11:44:41 AM
at last my interest is coming back

That's really good news mate
Dave

Peter you have driven the Jas so have an idea how it feels and goes that has an engle 100 cam with vw pushrods and single valve springs although it has bolt up rockers as they came with the motor before it,s rebuild they are also fitted with standard vw adjuster screws rather than the swivel heads they had

That spec is just about the same as the one I have, I had a look at things and have an album
done, mainly as it helps me keep track of it all.

It may be useful to others so I though I would post it up, so far I think I can rebuild the entire case
including new pistons and barrels but excluding the crankshaft work, for under £550

http://www.manxmaniac.co.uk/index.php?album=StellsEngineRebuild-Parts

Peter

Hopefully I just sorted out my crankshaft re-grind, if it needs it..... 

They are in Tunbridge Wells 

http://modusengineservices.co.uk/