Having not fully inspected or assessed the damage to my engine. 1776 by the way.

I was wondering on my options. As you may be aware I burnt out No3.

I may be able to get away with honing if there are no gouges. Full set done and new rings.
However may need to replace a piston or 4.

So worst case scenario, I need a rebore. 90.5mm pistons going upto 92mm.

I just cant find a piston only supplier. Anyone know anything? Is it cost effective or shall I go for a new set?

TBH  I doubt you'd find a supplier of new pistons in 90.5 or 92mm. Beetle cylinders have always been considered as 'disposable' and have generally been replaced as sets. If you just need one piston you may get a second hand one if you look or advertise on vzi etc. but the engineer in me's telling me that's not a good way to go. Even if you found a supplier of 1835 pistons I'm not sure an engineer would be keen on boring out 1776 cylinders as 1835 cylinder walls are pretty thin.

Did you find why you had the problem? Weak mixture, timing out, ill fitting/missing tinware, restrictive exhaust?

http://www.justaircooled.co.uk/pistons-barrels-rings-kits/

Try these, I've had a couple of these kits in the past.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kolben-Zylinder-1835-ccm-fur-VW-Kafer-Bus-Trike-Typ-1-Motor-/271525591920?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item3f382fbb70


Saves a lot of time and hassle, not to mention the cost of a re-bore.

These may be worth a try..... never used them myself but have seen their names bounced around on other forums and they often have unusual bits in.... the things I have read is always give them a call as the web site isnt always upto date

http://www.rjvolksperformance.com/

Hey Hunty pops,

I was on a prolonged thrash. Mixture is ever so slightly lean but I still have the oil cooler in the fan housing too. Probable cause due to disturbance of clean air flow over 3. Soon to be rectified ;-)

However, it seems that with a bit of research today you can buy pistons but are pricey, wisesci, AA and another brand. So not cost effective.

So the question is now, shall I go up to the 1835 or stick with the better the devil you know 1776.
Thank chaps

Quote from: Dave-Dream on September 18, 2014, 11:41:41 AM
Hey Hunty pops,

So the question is now, shall I go up to the 1835 or stick with the better the devil you know 1776.
Thank chaps

HUNTY pops                     




Stay with 1776 mate

H

 

Stick with 1776
As I think 1835s will require you to machine the heads and block as they are larger.
There was a slip in set for 1835s but I have heard in the past that they don't last long due to thin side walls and cylinders then cracking.

Stick with your present size, 1835  will require more machining so a complete strip but it takes the case near to terminally thin by the studs and the barrels are thin so prone to deforming. Built one many years ago and would not spend the cash on another thats why I went alternative motor.

If you want to see thin I have a 'very rare' set of 'Big Bore' 1679 slip in B&P's in the garage, they are like new as I've never had the bottle to stick them in and ruin an engine.

You could shave with the barrel skirts they are that thin, 1 day I'll stick them up on sale here to see if there's anyone braver (read stupid) than me.

Just think a whole 9.5cc per bang bigger than the fabled 1641

Interestingly the aircraft industry skip the 1776 and go for the 1835 but at -15c I don't reckon cooling would be an issue.

Hi Dave, PM message sent

As you say Flags strange with the aircraft the Jas crank came from a micro light engine but the guy was still looking into fitting a full flow remote cooler after a couple of engine failures.

stick with the 1776 as per reasons above m8