me and my mop

Started by Mr Twister, June 25, 2013, 07:33:26 PM

« previous - next »

Mr Twister

**
Full Member
Posts: 77
Nope, I don't need a hair cut thank you very much .... I've got an electric mop thingy that looks like an angle grinder with spongey and fluffy bits that whiz round. Never used one before and wondered if anyone on here could give me some advice on how to use it. Is it the same procedure for metal as it is for fibreglass ?

Cheers in advance
If life was meant to be easy, Michael Angelo would have painted the floor.

GTMIKE

Newbie
Posts: 8
 :-[   if your not sure how it works ...... Its going to be painful if you make a mistake !!

snoopy

MBC Moderator
******
Buggy Expert
Posts: 11,228
Kango ss/ Jas lwb
Location: evesham. 07757010432
may be something here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ mmmm I wonder if Krug knows of this site.

did some on one of ours and when applying the polish just keep it moving and wet to avoid heat build up and swirls using a sponge head
it only saves a bit of energy and I finnished the traditional way by hand.

ben_w

****
Buggy Meister
Posts: 1,733
Sidewinder
Location: Leicestershire
Mr Twister, being a bit of a detailing buff, I'll try and keep my answer this side of  :-)Geek (I'm on the site that Snoopy linked.... ;) )

All depends in what you are trying to achieve. You'd need to be a bit more descriptive about your kit for some proper advice but I can get in the right ball park.

Mops are good for taking the elbow grease out. However, you need to know what you are doing, match your pad and compound to your paint.

Basically, paints come in varying hardnesses between manufacturers. BMW are kjniwn to be very hard, Honda for example very soft. How you approach these two will differ massively.

First is the pad used. Most MOP pads come in a range of levels in terms of the correction they offer. More aggressive for hard paints, less so for soft etc. Same is said for polishing compounds. They come in varying levels. They need working for a good period of time as the abrasives break down and are, effectively, like going through varying grades of sandpaper as it breaks down.

The trick is finding a pad/compound combo that works well on your paint hardness. That comes by trying out different stuff.

The key is to start off light and work up the grades until you get the level of correction you need. Too much too soon and you are gonna burn through any clear coat and then you are in trouble.

As Keith says, the key is to keep the heat down. Keep the mop moving, stop and check periodically, use a water spray if necessary. If you can, test on a spare bit or a part you won't see.

After polishing, I could go into all kinda of detail about next and last stage preps but that's far too

Ben


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump

steeley

*
Beach Buggy
Posts: 160
MK1 GP
Location: Bournemouth
Be carefull, I reshaped and respayed rear wings on mine then polished straight through it  >:( >:(
steeley  :-)Geek

I used to be a werewolf , but I'm alright nowoooooooooooooooooo!!!!

Dave DND

Global Moderator
******
Buggy Expert
Posts: 11,802
Hustler GT
Location: Paignton, Devon
Gatecrasha did a good write up on polishing aluminium  ;-)up

http://www.beachbuggy.info/index.php/topic,1285.0.html
07801 131144 / 01803 391680
dave@dndservices.co.uk


Peter

*
Buggy Veteran
Posts: 2,551
Manx2 UK-00-25
Location: Kent
QuoteBe carefull, I reshaped and respayed rear wings on mine then polished straight through it

:D :D :D :D :D ;-)up
'We desperately need to bring nature and green, back into contact with people'

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk