Even experts start with no knowledge or skill so well done with the attempt you are on the way.

Honestly looks more like a contamination issue than anything - was it definately the right gas you used for the TIG?

Quote from: PhillipM on May 30, 2025, 09:08:56 PMHonestly looks more like a contamination issue than anything - was it definately the right gas you used for the TIG?

You are more than likely correct - just plugged in the Argomix bottle from my MIG   

I figured that with the stte of my welding, it would not have made that much difference - May try with some proper stuff though 

Yea, that's your issue right there. Tungsten will be contaminated too, pure argon gas required.

Apologies - its been a while since I updated this, but so far the start of this year has not proved to be much better than last year, sadly Lisa lost her Mum (Rushed into Hospital on my Birthday of all days) and you can imagine the rest.


Anyway, a few months back, I dragged the Buggy out and was trying to remember the problems I was having towards the end of last year and after a quick jaunt for an MOT, I remembered - well, it was a bit obvious actually, there was an oil pressure problem, or rather lack of it. Engine would start and it was pot luck as to whether the gauge would move, how far the needle would swing and where it would end up at any speed.Its was really erratic.

First up, change oil and filter. In fairness, it had not done many miles since the last change, but that could have been 3 years. For the sake of a filter and an El-Cheapo tin of 20-50  it was a good place to start. I had not envisaged what was about to come out though, and still cannot fathom it. The oil, darkened, but looking fairly good, was coming out of the drain plug quite freely when all of a sudden a large gelatinous lump came out. It was most odd. It was still the colour of the oil, almost translucent, and can only liken the texture to that of a raw egg, with the yoke still intact. I caught about a cupful, but no idea how much had gone into my catch tin as draining quite fast. Had this been a water cooled engine, then I could have come up with many theories, but eventually settled on it shouldn't be there and maybe this gloop was blocking the internal oil ways somehow? That would certainly explain the random readings.

New filter, new strainer, changed the oil and went round the block - all was looking good. Started the car the following day and my oil pressure was all over the place again. Sometimes the pressure is there, sometimes the pressure drops like a stone and the gauge could point just about anywhere. I did wonder whether the gauge itself was faulty, but the warning light on the dash also kept coming on too. They do share the same sender unit, so I swapped that one over and I thought I had cured it. Driving around the Beer weekend all seemed just fine with no problems. Happy Days. Parked it up for a week and I could hardly get the gauge to register with the engine running. Maybe there was still a lump of that jelly in the oil way somewhere? This time, before I drain the oil, I am going to use a tin of Wynns Engine Flush. Yes, I know we should all do this when changing oil, but lets face it, we never do. Pour in the tin of liquid, leave running for 15 minutes and drain oil.

Yet another new filter and a can of oil and head indoors for a beer. Came out the next morning to fin that I had lost around 2 pints of oil all over the garage floor as my oil strainer cover plate had refused to seal this time. This felt like Deja-Vu as I started draining the oil and by this time I was getting annoyed. Not with the Buggy though, but with that bloody Orange Man Baby who kept throwing his toys out of the pram regarding Countries he didn't like, because thanks to Donald Trump, the prices of oil were starting to skyrocket to a point that even GSF were changing prices of 20-50 by the hour in their shop. Go in there for a can of oil and out came the calculator. At least this time I can reuse the oil and filters, so filled it up and started the engine.

You can guess the result 

Pull the pressure relief valves and give then a clean also do the seating faces then reassemble. Water ingress could be the air filters with last winters heavy rain if it was parked outside at any time.

Good luck Dave.
Not quite the same as mine, no gloop in mine, but mine needed a dose of Rob magic to sort.

Never left outside, but I agree - time to take a look at the Pressure relief valve. I could just about see the nut holding it in and tucked behind my oil filter, exhaust pipes, rear cage and tow bar which should indicate just how accessible this was going to be and knew that once again, I had to drain the oil.

Its one of those jobs that is often overlooked because the nut is really tight. Bastard tight.



If you have ever tried taking that screw off, you will know how hard it is. It looks like a slotted screw, but don't be fooled as that slot is also curved internally to a perfect shape that a wide screwdriver does not fit and a smaller one will destroy the sides of the nut as you try to turn it. The only way I have ever got that nut undone is by using the curved end of an old fashioned tyre iron and a pair of mole grips, but to make that work properly the engine has to be upside down on the work bench. Starting to get the idea how tough this job is?

But, there must be a tool for this surely? In my 40+ years of playing with Beetle Engines I have never come across one nor heard of anyone that knows what else to use. So with a picture of the above retaining nut, I decided to use AI to identify it. Took a few goes, but it seems to herald from the Aircraft Industry and was called an HTS bit. A search on Amazon then came up with a Company called Apex-Tools that sold HTS Bits, and I reckoned I needed size number 4.



I can now see why people use screwdrivers as being Aircraft tools, they are near 3 figures a bit. 
Thankfully, I found someone on eBay selling a complete set second hand, and fifty quid later they were on my doorstep.

Worth every single penny    Popped number 4 on the end of my ratchet and undid that screw with considerable ease. 

As I withdrew the long spring and the valve on the end, I couldn't help but notice just how clean and shiny the internals of the engine were. It was almost a mirror finish in there and whilst I expected no less from a Farmer Rob engine, it does go to show how impressive that tine of Wynns Engine Flush was.

So this is the offending article - the actual Pressure relief valve.





Mine was spotless, clean, no visible marks or scores as was the long tube that it went up inside. You can buy replacement valves (just) but I could not accept that replacing a lump of undamaged vintage VW metal for an aftermarket lump of Chineseum was going to help. So cleaned it all up and put it back together. Filled back up with oil and started the engine.

Guess what. 

During my searches, I had seen many sites selling replacement springs and for the sake of £8, it was something that could be tried fairly easily so once again I drained the oil.

Comparing the old and new springs side by side showed that there was a slight difference. Whilst they were both the same length, the tension in my old one was considerably less. No idea what this would do, but at least I am changing something this time around instead of just changing oil. The spring was fitted and I fired up the engine. This time things were noticeably different from the start.

The gauge is indicating more pressure being read. When started from stone cold its around 4.5 bar, sits upper mid way on the gauge when driving about and when you come to a set of lights after ragging it about the gauge shows 1.5 bar at tickover when very very VERY hot.

Has it cured it?  Don't Know.    Looks promising, but I have been here before. 
If not, then the next thing to look at is oil pump, and that's a pretty major job with my setup.

The downside is that with my new oil pressure that I now have an oil leak somewhere at the rear of the engine. Gut feeling is that the Crank seal may have started to weep which is unsurprising on a car that has been sat around for the last few years, but I will put some miles on it first so that the traces of oil are easer to spot when I can be bothered to get round to it.

When I was looking at the relief valves Chris (Doon-L004) kindly sent me a set of plugs for use with Allen keys. Well worth getting as they stay on the end of the Allen key when relocating them.

Instead of draining oil jack up the LH side front and back and you'll only loose a little.

I always just used a coin for those curved slot nuts. Or a washer and mole grips.

Quote from: PhillipM on August 19, 2026, 07:42:50 PMI always just used a coin for those curved slot nuts. Or a washer and mole grips.

Never thought of a washer and mole grips - but access on the CU engine may be a little restricted for that