I have an Empi PICT 34 carb on my buggy
Turns out the previous owner "bypassed" the choke so it was always in the fully opened position, cold or warm
Took it apart and got it to function as intended
Upon further inspection, the adjusterscrew on the trottle lever can't reach past the last step on the choke lever when the choke is all the way open
(see image below)
I'm thinking to dremel a small piece off the last "step", or open up the slot on the other side of the nut
but before I do... Any other suggestions/solutions?
Thanks!

Idle speed is set by the big air bypass screw not the choke speed one so a gap is fine

Thanks... I know it's not for idle adjustments
It just bothered me that it won't engage the last section of the lever, as it barely hangs on the corner of the last "step"
As I understood, when warm, the throttle lever should touch the round part ot the choke lever, but the choke won't turn that far

No.... VW intended there be a gap. Their original documentation, which sadly I no longer have, stated a 10 thou gap between the adjuster end and the quadrant. This of course would be a gap between the screwed adjuster end and the lower curved section of the choke quadrant. In reality all you need is this small gap between where ever the adjuster end lays with choke flap fully open.
By way of interest this, as you say, is not the slow idle adjustment. Slow idle, ie with no choke at all, is set by both the so called "mixture screw". (small one). And the "air bypass screw".
As a basic, with the engine thoroughly warm, no less than 20 minutes running, first adjust the "mixture" screw until the engine runs without stalling. Then adjust "air bypass" screw in and out noting where engine "sweet spot" is. Check mixture screw again and the bypass screw and so on until all idles well and engine revs up instantly and drops to idle immediately.
Correct float level is critical to smooth running through full rev range with engine under load. It is the float level that dictates the "fast idle" speed and only the float level.
Be patient. Follow the method and you will have an engine that starts instantly, does not bog down and can be a pleasure to drive.
In my humble opinion the 34PICT3 was VW`s best carb of all they designed.

thanks for the replies!

choke seems to have other issues though
stuck in full open position and won't close when cold, unless using some force (then it will open up nicely while warming up)
after some reading, seems like the choke on the empi carbs is a bit of hit or miss...

Take the heating element body off carb and power it up with a 12v supply. after marking the position of the element end bit. Give it 10 minutes to warm up taking care because the metal body should get quite hot, (45 to 50 degrees C. When hot marl where the element end is and let it cool down. Lubricate the choke butterfly spindle and see if it moves freely. It should not feel sticky at any point. Using the markings judge where the body wants to be with the heating element end just touching the choke connection. Screw down and mark the carb body as a reference point. with a correctly working choke spindle and bimetal element and the carb mixture slow idling set correctly and correct float level set start the engine. Allow the engine to run at fast idle and watch the choke butterfly and the segmented quadrant. As the choke element heats the butterfly should open and you should see the quadrant move position until fully open all of it`s own accord.
It says something regarding aftermarket carbs that Gower & Lee, the carb refurbishers I use, will not touch anything but a genuine German made Solex carb. Not even a genuine South African "Kafer" marked carb.

Thanks Paul
The bi-metal spring seems to be working. It heats up and opens the choke butterfly as it's supposed
Once open, it gets stuck somewhere and stays open even when completely cold
I can close it by hand, but it take quite a bit of force
After that, it moves freely again, so quite strange
Guess I'll have to dig a little deeper to figure out where it binds

With some careful drilling or a dremmel you can take the peened end off the butterfly screws and take flap then the rod out so you can get it free. Put the screws back in with loctite so they do not come out into the engine.