Cheers Hugh and a merry xmas 

Last post for 2024.....   (As I typed I suddenly expected a bugle blowing out the "last post").   

Not a lot I can say further with regard to my experience with Kadron badged Solex carbs......  In the very low,, damp ambient temp`, of my garage it takes a bit more starting up with coughs and spits than the ICT`s did. Am certain this is due to the longer length of each intake manifold. The manifolds are baltic at the moment until they warm through. The engine will then settle to a very smooth idle. As I searched via google for less tall manifolds, which I am sure were once available, I could not find any but came across a number of comments that these are simple carbs to set up. In my experience, with this set, I have to agree 100%. I have taken a photo that has an arrow pointing to the float chamber pump lever and it`s adjuster. I didn`t take note of the jet sizes but I will in the spring. (These two carbs are "set up" as well as can be expected in such cold weather so I will re-visit to see if I can fine tune them further).

The photo then......   Notice I have the adjuster "screwed" fairly well down the threaded rod. (Both carbs the same number of turns for the moment). My two gunsen see thro spark plugs have both fractured across each "window" and are of no use now. Need a couple more to check each side for mixture burn before tweaking fuel air ratio any further. This adjustment was done to reduce "pump throw".   This was all that I needed to do to get mpg up to 28 miles to the gallon without impeding any performance. (There was no need to change main or pump jets). I will not be surprised if, when ambient temps improve, I will be able to better this.  Time will tell. If not I will be happy with this consumption.

Only when uploading the photo did I see my "deliberate mistake". Can you see it ? (answer below photo...)




Yep.... thats No 4 plug lead marked up as No 3    (Time to put myself "out to grass" I suspect).

All the very best for the New Year.

At least your leads are marked, very posh,  I just have cable ties each end of mine, number of ties corresponds to cylinder number. 

Wow Doon   You are the first person in 71 years and 10 months to the day to call me posh.... 

Just a bit of red electricians tape

Well learning curve with Solex "Kadron" carbs about over.

Final comments......

Exceptionally simple to set up from scratch. With a warm engine idle super smooth. Quite a noisy induction roar but many will view that as a plus. Fuel consumption..... not as bad as I expected but are not as frugal as twin ICT`s nor the Pict 3.

Downside..... You cannot get the offside standard Kadron air filter in place on my Manx. Shame as this meant a smaller pair with one  adapted to accept the engine "breather" connection.

Running Downside..... Only one..... due to the tall manifolds it takes a bit of effort getting them to fire up and run from temps in the lower single figures. Pumping away with huge silencer backfires is just not for me.


Not the end of the carburretor story though. By chance I was offered a pair of new Solex 32/34 carbs made by Brosal along with manifolds and linkage that are unused  CB Performance bits. These carbs of course have electric auto chokes and I suspect they are copies of the Solex fitted to Type 2 engines. At first glance these carbs appear of much better quality than the more common chinese stuff but time will tell.
I wasn`t aware that these carbs were re-manufactured in Brazil and am told they appear in the UK from the usual sources upon occasion but are snapped up very quickly.

Will be fitting these but not yet for a while. A lot of storm damage to make good first. (That is if ever the back garden dries out again. Has been super saturated for almost two years now. Very few plants still living  ).

I have learned something over the last eight years. I have clocked up many, many miles to pick up genuine parts from full K & L beams to small bits and pieces. I cannot recommend a better way of building up a means of access to genuine beetle etc parts. You develop contacts/friendships that come across parts and stuff and get in touch. It has worked, and continues to do so, for me. Far more so than auto jumble visits. Not to demean autojumbles, car boot sales etc by any means.

As I look back over to 1964/65 where I met a young person same age as myself at school who became my best friend and very shortly afterwards introduced me to his dad`s 1966 Beetle I like him was hooked upon these air cooled vehicles. I obviously had no idea what this new friendship had started. Here I am about to hit 72 and am still hooked. So much to thank him for. So many memories. Such nostalgia.

Pre internet days parts chacing was a case of buying magazines like Safer Motoring/VW Motoring and later Volksworld etc on the morning of issue and scanning the classified ads for parts or for phone numbers of people who may have had bits then keeping them in a note book or Filofax. Contacts would be made, networks formed and meet-ups arranged at Bug Jam, Bug Freeze or wherever and often life-long friendships made.

Sometimes you even got hold of some parts that you needed too...

Ask me how many panels on my old Notch were sourced this way in the late 80s...

Started buying safer motoring back end of 1970 with money from my first wages. Up until very recently I had piles of them in my loft until I gave them away to a young guy who had just caught the "beetle bug".
Around 1974 I bought a red notchback for £50.00 wanting the engine for my buggy which was currently running on a 6volt 1200cc single port motor. I was so impressed with the notchback that I ran it until one winter when I took a bend in the snow far too fast and went through a fence and hedge ripping the rear end right off the chassis. To this day I would love another one but they have become so rare in original unmolested state and when they do come along the asking price is beyond what I can now afford. (I have no time for air suspension, lowered vehicles and shortened front beams). Prefer the notchback shape to the fastback.

Filofax....  could never get into one of those.

For me whatever you get involved with searching out your parts it is the people you meet & befriend that is the icing on the cake. 

WOW..... February since my last post on this thread....

It was my intention late last year when I pulled out the original engine from my buggy and installed a built up replacement whilst the original was stripped to see what, if any, damage, running it with petrol in the oil had done. The damage was limited to a collapsed fuel pump pedestal which the ethanol had reduced to crumbled particles and some light marking to the big end shells. The plan was to re-install the engine as soon as I could but the replacement with its twin Kadron`s has run so well that I have put miles on the buggy making the best of the hot spring and summer. (Perfect buggy weather). 
Back now to rain each day up this way. Some of it torrential so the plan now is to do the swap over before we get to sub zero temp`s again. Cannot believe I am saying this but I am so old the frost seems to bite thro` to the bone.   

Just a last few words before the swap over:-   Kadron`s, in good fettle, are an eye opener. They are so easy to set up and once in the "ball park" they respond to throttle instantly and go to full throttle opening smoothly with a surge of power. No hesitation, no hiccups just put the pedal to the metal and off like a rocket.

One other factor has proven to be the case. One which I had wondered about since ManxDave posted an image of VW`s bulletin regarding the use of the type 3 cooling plates fitted to Type 1 engines as being a "no no" which would lead to over heating. This is a subject that I knew had been debated for decades both here and in the states but I had never seen the bulletin before. Many people have fitted the type 3 to type 1 and I wonder if the bulletin was issued by VW to cover "their backs" so to speak as It had been long known that the single port Type 1 engines could "drop"  a no 3 cylinder exhaust valve which was said to be possible due to poor cooling locally due to the position of the oil cooler. (The reason VW stated why they went to the "doghouse" fan housing which allowed relocation of the oil cooler), All I am saying here is that in my experience, over the hot summer, where we have seen temps repeatedly over 30 degrees C the engine currently in my buggy which has travelled at speed has been fine with no over heating. This may be because the engine is hanging "out the back" in the air flow whereas in a beetle the engine is partly within its housing under the rear hood.

Will post some photo`s as I proceed and also of the offside rear hub oil seal and back plate gasket change as the buggy has developed a slight leak of gearbox oil . The first leakage I have experienced. (I know what I am going to find but lets be sure before going off half cocked).

Replacement engine coming out after a year of faultless operation and not a drip of oil    Original engine going back in after a check on all mechanical fixings, alignment etc.  Taking the opportunity to replace both swing axle hub bearing gaskets & seals. Only one is leaking but I want the CSP quality stuff in both.

Coming out.....



Out

Now then , whilst the engine is out and I have the improved access here I go on the offside hub, (This the leaker). It`s amazing that as long as you don`t ignore the leak for donkies VW`s method of draining leakage via the bearing cap bottom hole and on thro` the backing plate keeps the brake shoes dry and safe for use.

When I first attempted to remove the hub nuts the 3/4" breaker bar snapped. (5 foot length of scaffolding tube was in use with the 36mm socket so immense leverage was available to me). The hub nuts would not move. Used all the other tried and trusted methods to no avail. Lashed out the pennies and bought a "Torque Multiplying" tool. What a revelation.... wish I had bought one years ago. You may doubt this but look at the photo. I have a tiny wrench on the tool. No effort at all needed to remove the nut. It literally took more time to put the two bolts in place than to turn the nut free. How to tighten to correct torque with this tool..... Check the multiplying "ratio". of your tool then use a small torque wrench on the figure you get for multiplacation to the torque you want. Might sound a bit confusing but with the tool to hand you will get what I mean,

In the photo showing the tool components is a smaller cogged item. This is for use when using the tool to remove the flywheel.









Quick Note:...    If you have an original gearbox drain plug in place it is magnetic. On the projecting part you will find black sludge. Use your finger to rub this between your fingers. Metal particles will be obvious. If the plug is not magnetic check the oil when drained after letting it settle overnight. Same thing you will either see of=r feel any metallic debris... 

I'm pretty sure the torque multimeter tightens at a ratio of 9:1 , I know I both loosened and tightened my last hub nuts with a 3/8" drive ratcheting torque wrench. It seemed most odd to be torquing my hub nuts to around 25 lb/ft but it worked!

Mine is a no-name copy of the Kymco original bought over the counter from Latest Rage on a Californian holiday 15years ago but it still works brilliantly.

Don`t remember what make mine was Dave but whoever dreamed it up should be given a "mechanical lightbulb medal" 

Top Tip here...

The photo below is of a pulley cover that I bought and fitted in 2017. It`s chrome plating was described as "sunshine state" quality. Well we all know what that means in real life here in the UK. It spent a few years in the garage before I got the buggy on the road. The worst possible environment. Cold and damp. As soon as I got the cover I did my usual as I have done with all cars over the decades that had chrome bumpers etc. A light coating of 3 in 1 oil buffed up with a dry cloth. Done this once a year.. Its still 100% rust free. 
You do get marks should you touch it so I wait until fitted before giving it a final wipe with a cloth.

Bit more... struggling with time at the mo`....
Quick note re- gearbox oil... If you don`t want to drain the box place a jack under the bottom shock absorber mount and lift axle shaft to level.
Photo shows a genuine VW gearbox plug with it`s magnetic segment still strong after over 50 years.

The picture shows my offside shaft with all removed but with the parts positioned apart for clarity. (I will photograph the oil thrower end later. This thrower must be free to move within the housing. It`s purpose is to direct any leaking oil towards the "drain hole" in the bearing cap should a leak occur).
There have been so many variations over the decades that the beetle, type 2, 3 & k.g. were built. Type 2 vans/campers often had reduction gearboxes as part of the back axle. Because of this I have made note on the photo to refer to these notes. The locating point of the large "O" ring can vary in precise positioning. Check what you have as you dismantle). First onto the shaft is a flat circular cover plate. Next the small "o" ring. Next the spacer with concave depression for the o ring. Next, within bearing housing the main seal. Locate this seal within the bearing cap with care oiling surfaces to ease it`s way. Do not hit hard or with poor fitting drift as it must sit in it`s recess perfectly squarely. Look thro  the oil thrower and you will see if the seal is far enough down and sitting squarely right around the circumference and down to the ledge.
There is a gasket to go onto the axle end bit and one on the inner surface of the backing plate.  If you use any sealant take care . Less is more.  The drain in the bearing cap and hole thro the backing plate must remain 100% clear.

Note how the gearbox oil has demolished the black synthetic enamel paint but as yet not the red cellulose primer.

BEARING CAP TORQUE:-  VW stated 43 ft lbs/58 Nm.    This was with totally dry bolt and mounting threads. Any oil/grease on the threads will nullify your torque wrench accuracy. The bearing cap is sturdy but is cast metal. Crack it and it`s scrap.

Oil thrower ring... Some had them. Others didn`t and many have been deliberately left out. The washer you get with a seal kit is not a satisfactory replacement. Compare the two and you will see why.

Important.....   Bearing Cap drain passage.

Critical to ensure this drain passage is 100% clear of muck and debris and does not get re-clogged with any sealant you may decide to use... many folk do).

Lower photo shows a replacement "detent spring plate" fitted to the brake adjuster cogged "star wheel" housing. If you do not have this fitted, or the original no longer has the detent portion in close proximity to star wheel,. upon using the two star wheels to adjust the brake shoes to within very near proximity, but not binding position of shoes against drum you will be able to imagine that without this sprung steel plate fitted the brake shoes can back away slightly, or a lot, from the drum surface therebye reducing braking efficiency from the optimum that VW achieved. These spring steel detents are available at small cost. You may find, as I did on this side, that the plate was absent. On the nearside the plate detents no longer fitted neatly to the star wheel "cog" and so did nothing. The plate sits in a depression milled along the base of the housing being retained in side slots. One of these slot areas was  eroded and no longer effective at holding the plate securely. To fix this I used the smallest of hex socket bolts that I had. Drilled a hole. Tapped the hole. Secured plate with the bolt. Has remained in position now for over 8 years..Also note the paint crinkled and eaten away. By the oil not brake fluid.

Now then to the most critical item for the job in hand. Take note of the mug. The most essential requirement and it must be topped up very, regularly.