Hi all,

New to the Air-Cooled world.

Does anyone know of anyone who is a mobile mechanic in the Bristol area.

I have a buggy with a possible fuel intake issue.

Any help would be great, I am a newbie....

Thanks

Matt

Welcome aboard

I can`t help with the mobile mechanic in your area, but if you post a description of the faults you are experiencing, there are a good number of experts on here that may be able to help diagnose your problem and even guide you towards a self fix

Welcome Matt.

Pretty well every buggy owner has experienced fuel intake issues - my buggy body is presently off for exactly that reason ie to trace everything back to the tank.

So as Dave says you may get plenty of initial help from clarifying your exact problem or symptoms.

You can add pictures of things like carb/fuel lines etc by using the blue link below.

This site and its members will get your buggy sorted...

Thanks very much for the replies.

All I can say before I get the pictures was.

It was running fine, then I put some premium unleaded in - about £6 quids worth. Could this cause the issue. I am not sure on what type of grade of fuel to use?

I also noticed the fuel filters on both sides were dirty, so I removed them and replaced like for like. So these are installed the correct way and new. I can see after a few starts that the fuel is getting to both
the left and right fuel filters.

The fuel pump sounds like it is working and doing its job of getting fuel to the engine.

When I start the buggy now it just wimpers out, few puffs and it stops. I press and pump the accelerator but it makes no difference.

That is where I am at with it.

Thanks

Matt

What engine, carbs, fuel pump etc have you got?

Quote from: Manxdavid on May 07, 2021, 08:28:08 AM
What engine, carbs, fuel pump etc have you got?

And a bit of history and previous use for info would be helpful too.

Oh and welcome to buggy world 

H

Premium unleaded won't have done any harm. I run my buggy on any fuel, whatever is cheapest, but some will recommend that you use Super.

Possible that different fuel has loosened up some gunk.  When you say fuel filterS  do you mean inline ones or the carb internal ones.

If inline and there are two that suggests they are after the pump which can be dangerous as they are not usually meant to be pressurised

And welcome to the site

Quote from: Doon L001 on May 07, 2021, 09:08:40 AM
If inline and there are two that suggests they are after the pump which can be dangerous as they are not usually meant to be pressurised

Absolutely - And for those following this thread its also just as important to mention NEVER to use the glass style in line filters - Only Plastic ones

Has it got a single carb fitted with electric choke and a solenoid valve on the side both should have a live feed from the coil, no feed to thesolenoid equals no fuel to the motor as it closes off the idle circuit.

Hi All,

Thank you all very much for your responses.

Sorry not being evasive, just don't know what I'm talking about yet.

I have attached some pics for you guys to see.

Thanks for the fuel question. Only just bought it last week drove it like 20 miles, managed to get it back into my garage after it died on a roundabout and there she is stuck. So Im
a tad peeved I just bought it and It has ended up like this. But it's a lesson for me to learn more about it.

Some answers to some questions:

It is powered by a 1.8 type 4 engine uprated spec with twin 40 Webber carbs

I fitted the plastic inline filters to answer another question. Please see the photos you can see they are both new. (Hopefully the right way around?)

I do believe it is electronic ignition.

I have not checked any spark plugs as of yet.

There is life in the battery as I tested that.

Thanks everyone.

Matt

Best put one filter inline between the tank and the pump as they can and do burst with pressure and start a fire is not good.
Simple spark check is a plug on the tin ware on any lead and get someone to spin it over you will see a spark, could be a faulty coil if it did 20 miles as they do fail and get to hot to work.

Whilst others are looking at the fuel, whip the distributor cap off and check the condition of the rotor arm inside - these can often get neglected when people fit electronic ignition as they think that nothing else in there can fail. New cap and rotor is always a good thing to add on your list of things to replace and seen as preventative maintenance.

As Dave says check what ignition you have, take nothing for granted. It may still have points that just need gapping or a duff condenser.

Check the carbon brush in the middle too.

Probably worth an oil change as well before using it too much. Think it's every 3000 miles and you have no idea when it was last done.