Hi all , been fitting new front calipers today, do i bleed all 4 wheels or just fronts,? Also do i bleed top and bottom bleed nipples in both calipers, having trouble getting a pedal. Thanks all👍

Callipers/discs tend to how a softer pedal. That's why some fit RPVs on the front circuit.
Last time I did mine bled via the lower nipple, then the top. Start a rear drivers side first👍

Make sure you adjust the rear brakes up initially so there is less chance of moving air around. Start at the furthest point away from the master cylinder and work back to the closest. I'm unfamiliar with callipers on a buggy but pepsi81 seems to give sound advice.

Thanks Philmore👍

I've discs all round. They don't improve braking compared to well set shoes. However maintenance is reduced. I've never been 100% happy with the feel of my pedal, but you do get use to it. Take the opportunity to replace all your brake fluid

Quote from: pepsi81 on March 27, 2020, 08:58:37 PM

Callipers/discs tend to how a softer pedal. That's why some fit RPVs on the front circuit.
Last time I did mine bled via the lower nipple, then the top. Start a rear drivers side first👍

thanks all, Whrn I bleed the fronts, only the front half of the resevoir is emptying  so I wondered if dual circuit and if the rears were a seperate sealed system from the fronts. Will try sgain over the weekend. 👍

Quote from: pepsi81 on March 27, 2020, 09:22:45 PM

Thanks Philmore👍

I've discs all round. They don't improve braking compared to well set shoes. However maintenance is reduced. I've never been 100% happy with the feel of my pedal, but you do get use to it. Take the opportunity to replace all your brake fluid

You need to keep the reservoir full mush all the time 
Do the rears first. If you are on drums adjust so you can't move them, maximum cylinder travel. Adjust brakes when bleeding ops are completed.
Make sure your bleed hose is a tight fit on the nipple 😂

Buy a pressure bleeder. Just use the top nipples on the calipers. The order doesn't really matter on a short chassis though, it doesn't make any difference on something short. That advice was just a bit of a hangover from old WW2 army trucks etc.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/gunson-eezibleed-321158.html

Quote from: Manxdavid on March 28, 2020, 09:21:18 AM
Buy a pressure bleeder. Just use the top nipples on the calipers. The order doesn't really matter on a short chassis though, it doesn't make any difference on something short. That advice was just a bit of a hangover from old WW2 army trucks etc.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/gunson-eezibleed-321158.html

Thanks for the info, I adjusted rear shoes up quite a bit, ( handbrake better now) 👍
Bled all brakes but strange thing, I couldnt get any fluid out of ns f caliper nipples! Pedal there but not as firm as before, nsf wheel is being braked by the caliper even though nothing at bleed nipples and buggy braking straight and evenly. In fact it is better with a softer pedal as it was really easy to lock up the front before. Any ideas? Do I keep bleeding all four corners to see if it gets better. I have'nt yet pulled out the bleed nipples completely to check they are actually drilled out. I am struggling to see why the pistons would move and grip the discs but no fluid present when I open the bleed nipple. Anyone come accross anything similar . 🤔

Top nipple out and check the holes are clear in the caliper and nipple if it looks ok get somebody to stand on the pedal then crack the top nipple to see if any air/fluid is released.

Quote from: pepsi81 on March 28, 2020, 01:44:17 AM

You need to keep the reservoir full mush all the time 
Do the rears first. If you are on drums adjust so you can't move them, maximum cylinder travel. Adjust brakes when bleeding ops are completed.
Make sure your bleed hose is a tight fit on the nipple 😂

thanks pepsi, my bleed hose was loose as it blew off a couple of times , fluid evertwhere 😖, will get a tighter tube.👍

Quote from: snoopy on March 28, 2020, 07:01:50 PM
Top nipple out and check the holes are clear in the caliper and nipple if it looks ok get somebody to stand on the pedal then crack the top nipple to see if any air/fluid is released.

vThank you snoopy; I will do this over next couple of days.👍

What Snoopy said 
Make sure who's helping keeps their foot to the floor until you've closed the nipple. Personally never been happy with any self bleed kit.
Try locking up the back brakes before you bleed.
Make sure you have fluid flow before you start. AKA what Snoopy said but confirm at all 4 wheels 

Are the brake hoses to caliper sound. Any collapsing within the tube and you will get very little fluid through. equally any bulge in hose and you will have fluid but slop at pedal. Work through this issue methodically.  Less efficiency, ie more pedal travel, is nearly always air which can be a bugger to get out of any plumbing system. I have had to resort to jacking up each wheel at times. This so caliper bleed nipple is at highest point. (Careful if you are working as a twosome with car jacked up. Axle stand\s a mus).

Whatever you do under NO circumstance adjust the length of the brake pedal pushrod. It`s length and apprx` 2mm clearance between rod end and master cylinder 1st plunger is critical. Both master cylinders plungers MUST be able to travel back when pedal is released so that the plunger clears each port from the resevoir. If it cannot you will never get air out nor have a safe braking system because no fluid can get from resevoir to master cylinder..

Be methodical, follow advice already given by others, and you will get there. Beware of standard brake fluid. It is nasty stuff and one of the best paint strippers I have come across. Get it in your eyes and you will know about it.

Quote from: Paul1953 on March 29, 2020, 09:16:05 AM
Are the brake hoses to caliper sound. Any collapsing within the tube and you will get very little fluid through. equally any bulge in hose and you will have fluid but slop at pedal. Work through this issue methodically.  Less efficiency, ie more pedal travel, is nearly always air which can be a bugger to get out of any plumbing system. I have had to resort to jacking up each wheel at times. This so caliper bleed nipple is at highest point. (Careful if you are working as a twosome with car jacked up. Axle stand\s a mus).

Whatever you do under NO circumstance adjust the length of the brake pedal pushrod. It`s length and apprx` 2mm clearance between rod end and master cylinder 1st plunger is critical. Both master cylinders plungers MUST be able to travel back when pedal is released so that the plunger clears each port from the resevoir. If it cannot you will never get air out nor have a safe braking system because no fluid can get from resevoir to master cylinder..

Be methodical, follow advice already given by others, and you will get there. Beware of standard brake fluid. It is nasty stuff and one of the best paint strippers I have come across. Get it in your eyes and you will know about it.

thanks paul, I will look again when this wind drops, no fun working on vehicles with a howling northerly . Flexis and calipers are new: I got them as old flexis were advised on mot and also one caliper was dragging a bit. . The pedal was solid before I did the job so hoping just air or could it be a faulty bleed screw or 👍

Know what you mean aboit outside in howling wind.  I am out in this each and every day. Wind goes sidewways so straight into garage or shed with the doors open. It has attempted to snow a little a couple of days recently.

You have just changed the calipers and have new hoses so it is 99.9% sure that you still have air in the system. Wait until the weather is calm and warmish so that you and your pedal pressing helper are comfortable and then you will not rush things. One side at a time.. take out bleed nipple completely. Have someone push down on the brake relatively slowly but evenly. You should see fluid come out of caliper port. Don`t let the pedal up yet. Screw in the bleed nipple until closed. (Only needs a gentle nip).  (Keep an eye on the master cylinder resevoir level topping up with clean fresh fluid only). Once you are sure you have fluid coming out of the caliper port start the "bleed". Have the spanner on the closed nipple ready to open the nipple. Have the helper ready to press the pedal slowly but firmly to the floor. Have helper shout as soon as he is pressing pedal and open the nipple. With the pedal at the floor close nipple. Allow pedal to rise back up fully. Repeat until no air splutters out of nipple with fluid. When you are happy that only fluid is coming out and no air have the pedal pressed one last time opening nipple at start of pedal travel but time your nipple closure whilst pedal is still being depressed. At this point the pedal should go hard. Do other side same way and at the last press of the pedal and you close the nipple the pedal should go rock solid. Believe me when I say this job can be a pain. In theory because the rear system is theoretically separate from the front you should not need to bleed the rear set up but mechainical systems have a mind of their own.

With patience and especially methodical bleeding and closing the bleed nipple at the right time there is no reason why you should not have affective  braking. Let me know what happens when you have tried again.