A digital speedo where you measure the rolling circumference of a tyre and program revs per mile in is accurate but speeds up slowly as the tyre wears. Speed indication is not a problem unless the 1mph over the limit cameras come in to make money out of motorists.

New rear seat fitted - it's actually a golf buggy bench seat that fits perfectly in the limited space at the back.





The downside is that the cushion is so thick a seated person can hit their head on the roll bar, so I've ordered some padding for it.

Next up, fit the lap belts; I have strong points ready for attachment

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

Lap belts are regarded as about as useful and dangerous as a chocolate teapot.

If you can get lap and diagonal or harness (mounted properly ) that's the way to go

That's a great idea, but the only place I have for the upper point on a diagonal belt is on the roll bar. Is that permissible?

My primary reason for fitting a lap belt is to attach the dog to on her harness so we can all go out together, but she has a strap that clips into the seat belt buckle so it would still work if I could use a diagonal belt.

The seats are so small I wouldn't normally consider carrying passengers.

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

If it's just for the dog then just get buckles. You aren't IVAing and vehicle date almost certainly means you don't need rear belts

Find a breakers and get one there

I have a solid mount one (Pug I think) on the tunnel for if she has the front seat and one on a short strap (transit I think) in the back

Already have new lap belts here, so like you say I may only use the buckle part.

Since it was brought up though, I still wonder if I could perhaps use a static lap and diagonal belt if I had a captive nut welded to the top corners of the roll bar?

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

If the rollbar is sturdy maybe better than nowt

Just try to get angles as near right as possible. Above and behind the shoulder.

Is the rollbar a simple hoop or does it have bracing bars. Worth a bar below the seat rather than just bolts through the fibreglass.

Don't forget belts are mot test items so if fitted ensure they will comply,

Yes, the roll bar is braced about a foot from the bottom (see my photos above).

I think my best bet would be to fit the just buckle part for the dog and then seek professional help. I realise it will cost but as you say it needs to be right.

Thanks for all your help

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

I've decided to leave the rear belts for a while as I'm not convinced the strong points I'd chosen are good enough. Might need some proper ones welded at some point.
All the law requires is that animals are properly restrained, so I reckon our doggy will be just as safe wearing her harness and being tied off to the roll bar at the bottom where it's braced.
She might be terrified by the loud exhaust anyway so we might not get very far

New 13" steering wheel on.

Floor inside the car cleaned up - removed various leaves, stones and dirt. The floor seems in good nick though
Discovered a 3/4" hole in the deck in each side, just the right place to shoot rain water from the road up onto your lap. Found some rubber bungs in my bits box and sealed them off.

The rear bench seat is fine, but the cushion is so thick and high you can bang your head on the roll bar, so some thick padding bought from a sports car shop and cable tied in place.

Some shorter wiper blades bought as the current ones sweep across the windscreen rubber at the bottom, but it turns out they'll need some fettling to fit the current arms.

Lastly I've stuck some VW metal style logos onto the wheel hub covers in an effort to improve the look of the wheels

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

Personalising the buggy has started and you will find things like the holes that some are happy to live with, even the little improvements give a feeling of satisfaction and pride of ownership.

Yes you're right, I'm titivating now  , but I'll need to settle down and do some maintenance soon.

The engine oil is black and probably needs changing - what grade is recommended - 20/50, 10/40 or what? Mineral or semi-synth?

Also, while I'm on it, does the gearbox oil ever need changing or just topping up, with what?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I want this car to keep running as well as it can for a long time

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

Ref the above, I've been on the VW Heritage site and found what I need.
Oil + gasket kit on order √

That site is a veritable mine of information; maybe you'll get a few less silly questions now

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd

I use 20/50 mineral do not go semi or full synthetic as it does not transfer heat as well apparently or a straight 30 will do.
Gear box oil is worth changing a straright EP90 old school oil with no additives, your may be dark brown and very smelly if it has not been changed for deceades.

See you got sorted but I have typed it out.

You may want to buy a new oil strainer in case the old one's in bad shape.

I got the Morris SAE 30 plus a gasket kit, but I will certainly add a new strainer to the list √

I also bought a litre of SAE 80/90 gear oil (plus 17mm hex key) for topping up, but if the oil is too old I can go back and do a complete change.

Thanks for all the help 

Cheers

Hugh the 2nd