Hi all, just been thinking about my buggy being hard to start when its hot. When i first got the motor running and was trying to set it up, in my wisdom and lack of much clue what i was doing, i had rotated the choke  clockwise a good half to three quarters of an inch, could this now be too much choke and may be contributing to my hot start problems? Any views appreciated, thank you. 👍

Rotating clockwise ipens it, to set it correctly ignition off and cold you remove the aircleaner loosen the 3 choke heater screws open the throttle by hand then turn the heater element anti clockwise until the choke closes then tighten the 3 screws.   Ignition on but do not start and the choke should be fully open in 2 mins you will have to move throttle to allow cam to move up.
There should be alignment marks on the heater and carb body.

Surely the simple answer.... is ditch the electric choke altogether?


I wouldn't bother with it. When I had my solex carbs on my old GP (on a type 3 engine) I had it on, but was a nightmare. Removed it and it ran fine. OK a full blasts of the throttle when starting but is soon running smooth. And surely being in Cornwall its not like being in Scotland.


Very few of us have chokes (for starting) on our carbs. 

WHS^^^

Quote from: Manxdavid on June 14, 2017, 12:09:25 PM
WHS^^^

thanks, so to do away with it, do i simply disconnect it, or do i have to remove it ?

Pretty sure thats all I did (though assumes the carb is otherwise all ok)

Quote from: AndyRobinson on June 14, 2017, 04:53:57 PM
Pretty sure thats all I did (though assumes the carb is otherwise all ok)

will give it a go , thank you, just so i understand things correctly, will pressing the throttle still set the choke on the fast idle cam, but then it just wont gradually come off on its own as the bi metalic element is disconnected, or by stabbing the pedal 2 or 3 times,  am i squirting fuel in from the accelerater pump so it will have a rich mixture to start , and then i blip it again to get it off the fast idle cam ? Sorry to sound thick 👍

All disconnected and took it for a test ,doesnt take long from cold start to be able to take foot off the throttle and it will idle smoothly. There seems to be an optimum period of time i can leave it and then i can start it again really easily, other times if it has been left longer , it turns over more, then i have to give it a pump to get some fuel in there.,flat spot still there at low revs but fine at higher revs.. i have noticed that it runs well initially from cold but after i have done 6 or 8 miles , especially if there is slow moving traffic, where i cant open it up a bit, it runs a bit more unevenly, but still ticks over well. Thinking of swapping coils just to eliminate the coil losing some performance when hot. Think it is time foe someone to put it on a rolling road and play with jets etc, any reccomendations in cornwall ? Thanks all

Quote from: AndyRobinson on June 14, 2017, 09:03:52 AM
Surely the simple answer.... is ditch the electric choke altogether?


I wouldn't bother with it. When I had my solex carbs on my old GP (on a type 3 engine) I had it on, but was a nightmare. Removed it and it ran fine. OK a full blasts of the throttle when starting but is soon running smooth. And surely being in Cornwall its not like being in Scotland.

Similar but less midges,,more ants (emmets) 😂
Very few of us have chokes (for starting) on our carbs. 

If you have it, you may as well use it. 
When the engine is warm and on tick over, look down the throat and make sure the butterfly
is completely upright, this is choke off.
When its cold switch with the ign on set and it so it is three quarters closed.
I had one and it always worked well for me.

People with out choke often are running twin carb set ups.

Just a thought, is there such a thing as a good old fashioned manual choke conversion for the 34 pict, a lot more controlable and nothing to go wrong, best of both worlds ? 👍