Decided to drill a hole in the bulb holder for the earth cable rather than relying on the self tapping screw at the bottom of the light fixing.

My
My Hotwheels colour swatch method turned out pretty well. I don't think I could have got a better colour match. The lamp shells fit with no trimming, though they are maybe slightly too deep on the outside. Although they fit the profile of the body really well, the lenses are angled ever so slightly inwards. Maybe I'll trim them in the winter.

A wee tip here: I used proper Beetle lamp gaskets rather than the wee bit of rubber trim the units came with. I was able to use this as a template to work out where to drill the bolt holes, and also where to position the lamps so as to hide the old holes in the bodywork.

Before:


After:



Well it's getting there. looks a lot better. The chrome mudguard bracket/ reflector holder has been removed and is being sprayed black so it doesn't show too much. I'd like to remove the mudguards, but really need to discuss with Finnish buggy owners what the legislation is, how much of an issue it is for Katsastus (Finnish MoT) and how likely you are to get a pull. I've seen buggies driven without them fitted, but they could have removed them after inspection.

I discovered that my crimping tool can't handle flag connectors. Not very happy about angles of wires and closeness to those screws. Suspect I might have bought another crimping tool (or pair of jaws for my old one) before this hits the road.

I never use those shrouds. I use heat shrink with a dob of hot melt glue at the wire exit before shrinking it on to act as a seal and stop water tracking along the insulation to the connector

looking so much better with those lights and loving the colour

dave

Certainly looking better and agree with Dave on the heatshrink.
Can you make the mudguards easily removable so you can have them on for test and bad weather and off in good weather.

Cheers guys! I haven't yet investigated if the big stonky brackets that the mudguards are bolted onto, bolt onto the frame or are welded. If they're welded it could be a pain.


I'd like to remove the front bumper and lights, but think they might have been fitted to cover front suspension and wheels to please MoT guy. That bumper is held on by 2 bolts drilled through the nerf bar vertically. I think even the slightest impact would break the bolts and you'll have a length of metal pipe being thrown around. I need to find out how anal the MoT guys are, and if its a case of just finding the right one. The front wings have a recess cut into them for the mudguards so will look a bit odd without the guards.

Pulling up the rubber mats and ugly red carpet on the tunnel.

Fortunately revealing no real rust to speak of. A lot of carpet glue to deal with and there is some of what looks like original Beetle sound deadening material on the tunnel too. Presumably that will also trap moisture and would be advisable to remove? Whats the best method for that? Suggestions welcomed.

Hooray! As stated in previous posts, our local Hardware Store really does have everything. This stuff comes with the HUDGEBUGGY seal of approval and I'll be getting some fitted in the buggy shortly.

I really should look at replacing the gearbox bush rather than faffing about with cosmetics. However, I'm enjoying the gratification of improving this buggy by simply ripping stuff off it.

Pop quiz! Anyone with long memories recognise what the seats are from? 
( I do know btw)

Did the gearshift rod bushing today.
I won't go into too much detail as it's been covered well on this site, and thesamba has an excellent 16 page thread on the subject here https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=157519&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=b01f6cf57edc724a81924fd36cdf86d6
that I learnt a lot from.

Opening the inspection plate revealed an interesting use of a spring instead of lockwire. I presume the normal method is to wind locker round the tube that the bolt screws into?

Technique picked up from the samba. Electrical conduit with a pit of lockwire. Push this up the tunnel and wrap the wire round the gearshaft.

Then drag it out.



Broken bush can be seen as I draw out the gearshift.

Quote from: Campbell on April 02, 2017, 09:20:52 AM


. This stuff comes with the HUDGEBUGGY seal of approval and I'll be getting some fitted in the buggy shortly.

Just seen this whilst drinking a glass of red wine , which I sprayed all up the screen., almost PMSL   
Good call Campbell

Putting the shaft back in was awkward. I ended up attaching a bit of stiff wire to it. pushed it up the tunnelling used a flexible claw tool to grab it. If I'd thought about it whilst removing it. I would have added a long bit of wire when the hole at the end had got past the gearstick hole, leaving it attached so I could draw it back in.

Getting the shaft through the bush was difficult because when the end of the shaft is reaches the bush, the L-shaped end is balanced on the edge of the hole at the front of the car. It either rotates and hangs down catching on the outside edge or falls in the tunnel. I got my son to hold onto that end as I shoogled the other end into the bush.

I then tapped it through with a broom handle having sprayed the gearshaft with white lithium grease.

Unfortunately I got it half way through and it jammed! The L-Shaped gearstick end had rotated and was jammed against a crossmember at the bottom of the tunnel.

Fortunately I'm quite scrawny. Was able to get my arm through the gearbox coupler inspection hole, up to my elbow in the tunnel, rotate the shaft and pull it towards the gearbox.