Quote from: Scottcrowe030 on March 17, 2017, 01:34:12 PM
I don't suppose anyone has a diagram on how to wire in one of these? Or any advice as on which wires off the ignition switch is needed as a security precaution I have an idea I think its the red wire off the back of the switch I've also heard about the coil positive mines going in a battery box just above the starter.

Stupid question just might as well do it whilst I'm re wiring the whole thing.

Hi Scott. The type I'm referring to goes in between the battery and the starter on the big fat red wire. The other leads from the battery +ve then go from the Cut-out switch (other side to the battery) in stead of the battery +ve terminal. Is this what you're after? I can post a pic if you need.

Hiya Zip, if you wouldn't mind posting that would be ideal. That's the sort I have in the garage have the battery positive to one side of the switch the other side going to the starter motor the big red one I was just wondering which other connections I would need to adjust to fit the same side of the switch as I'm just a little confused.

Quote from: Scottcrowe030 on March 17, 2017, 02:21:35 PM
Hiya Zip, if you wouldn't mind posting that would be ideal. That's the sort I have in the garage have the battery positive to one side of the switch the other side going to the starter motor the big red one I was just wondering which other connections I would need to adjust to fit the same side of the switch as I'm just a little confused.

Hi Scott. I mocked this up. Hope it makes sense:

That's spot on thank you chief. 

Just bought one online.....christ, its huge! On a side note, if its being used as a security device, instead of a kill switch, do you really need all the extra connections? As it will be easier to reach into an open buggy and turn it off at the ignition in an emergency, rather than try and find a hidden switch?...Just a thought from a wiring novice? 

Quote from: GBHgpJON on March 18, 2017, 08:35:51 AM
Just bought one online.....christ, its huge! On a side note, if its being used as a security device, instead of a kill switch, do you really need all the extra connections? As it will be easier to reach into an open buggy and turn it off at the ignition in an emergency, rather than try and find a hidden switch?...Just a thought from a wiring novice? 

Jon you make a good point. Am now thinking do I really need one?!

I believe the point of a kill switch is to isolate the battery completely so no wiring around the buggy, fuel tank or engine, is still 'live' and can cause a spark. So it should go directly in line and as close as possible with the battery terminal that isn't earthed.

I find them useful on old vehicles to ensure the battery does not discharge over days and weeks of none use due to a trickle leakage somewhere in the wiring. Ie the buggy can be left for a couple of weeks and I know the battery will still be fully charged when I turn the kill/isolator switch back on.

Of course many on this site have state of the art electronics and excellent wiring (you know who you are !) so non water leakages aren't an issue.

As for the security aspects it does add another level to delay a 'hot wiring' nob from taking your pride and joy.

I'm for sticking them as close to the battery as possible but on the negative terminal, that way you don't get 2 potentially uninsulated positive terminals on the back of the switch to catch you out.

Quote from: Zip Buggy on March 17, 2017, 03:14:49 PM

Quote from: Scottcrowe030 on March 17, 2017, 02:21:35 PM
Hiya Zip, if you wouldn't mind posting that would be ideal. That's the sort I have in the garage have the battery positive to one side of the switch the other side going to the starter motor the big red one I was just wondering which other connections I would need to adjust to fit the same side of the switch as I'm just a little confused.

Hi Scott. I mocked this up. Hope it makes sense:

Hi Zip

i want to add one of these to the battery box behind the rear wheel as a security measure. Any chance you could PM the picture/diagram to me? Good old photobucket has taken it off the feed again.

I'm hoping its just a simple case of wiring in line with the starter motor wire between the solenoid and the battery so its isolates and slows down anyone just overriding the ignition circuit?

As Flags says better in the earth circuit then it will not hot wire as the battery negative is isolated, then only draw back is you radio memory will be lost and perhaps digital dash boards will loose their memory over long periods.
This way is a simple cut of the earth wire and fit the switch in line. Some cut off switches have a bypass to allow power to the radio/ computer when switched off this could be used in the earth to keep the radio memory.

Here's the pic I posted before:

Excellent thanks guys

Might just go with the 'earth' isolation option

Much appreciated 

Safer IMHO.

Personally, I`m not a fan of messing with an earth, as if anything is powered then it will "look" for an earth if one is not present. You have seen lights that play silly buggers when an earth is poor as the voltage dissipates through anything that is connected if a strong earth is not present. I spend half my life repairing delicate electronics that have failed as voltages ripple the wrong way backfeeding through circuits, and with more and more electronic sophistication being added to our Buggys, Stereos, usb chargers, dashboards, LEDs, etc, then I feel that this has the potential to end in tears.

Kill the supplied voltage - not the earth

But, basic electricity safety says.

You would never take off a Positive battery terminal first.

No LED's, stereo, USB thingies, or anything electronic except the ignition on mine and a good quality marine type kill switch that is wired with suitable gauge cables will not cause earth drops.

Some of us have battery locations that make the normal safe earth disconnection difficult to do a simple job so I'll stick with what I said kill the earth and don't burn your buggy to the ground.