Dealing with Farmer Rob direct now so thanks for the info - good to see you might have learnt something there too Pete

Hi guys, I've decided as part of my rebuild I would like a 1776 building, with twin carbs, engle 110, lightened flywheel, full flow etc I just wanted some recommendations on what to do.

At the moment I've a working TP 1600 with dual weber carb, which runs fine.

I also have a clean single port 1200 long block which turns by hand.

Think my options are:

1. Keep the 1600 and have the case / heads machined and bigger b&p's installed and have an engle 110 / new flywheel / seals / gaskets etc done at same time

2. Send the 1200 long block in and use this as my exchange for a newly refurbished 1776 long block with new flywheel / 110 etc, and build it up myself buying my own carbs / ancillaries etc

3. Sell the 1600 on here / eBay / etc and bite the bullet and purchase a turnkey 1776 - (if so, any recommendations on suppliers??)

Would be really appreciative of some advice. Budget approx 2-3k. Not sure how far this would stretch but hopefully get me nicely off the blocks!

Cheers.

Thanks, ill give it another shot tomorrow. The top ones have Allen key ended threads but lower ones don't unfortunately. I'll try the non-nylock nut and the bar option tomorrow. Thanks for the replies.

Thanks Paul, much appreciated.

I'll have another go at tightening them down tomorrow but it's tricky as the thread spins with the joint.

Thanks again for your help.

Yes the notches point forward.

The ball joints were sent to my local VW garage who I've used for a good while. I would have done them myself but they have a press there so thought best them to press out old and press in new.

Do they look wrong to you? Thanks

Kind of. This is the arrangement I've got at the moment. Don't think it looks right. What you reckon? I've looked in Haines, maybe by uppers are wrong?

Hi all,

Sent my beam in to have balljoints replaced, and had them back and not sure if the garage has put wrong types in? Im a bit stumped, seems the nylock nut will run out of available thread before it is tight. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the info. It has been a buggy previously. I'll try a ratchet strap on both sides, just ordered myself some billet covers to put on too when they're in the correct position again. Cheers.

Morning All,

I got my pan back from the blaster/painter and it seems the torsion bars have slipped out of the housings, probably due to me removing the covers to allow him to blast and paint under them. As its been moved around his workshop its possibly been knocked and allowed the arms to slip out of alignment. See photos.

I presume these arms are under a lot of sprung tension, is there any easy way to rectify this, apart from maybe a network of ratchet straps around my garage?!

Thanks in advance,

Chris

They're 5 x 130 at the moment which I've been told is Porsche pattern. I've ordered the same 5 x 130 rear hubs from Machine 7, it just makes me wonder that they're listed at 68 onwards, but my buggy is 62, whether they'll fit. Anyway I'll get them and see. If I keep them clean they can always go back. Thanks for the info.

Thanks, much appreciated.

Ok thanks, so unless im bothered about keeping the originality of the car (which im obviously not as its already beach buggied) would you reckon my splines will fit any beetle aftermarket hubs? Or did the hubs physically change shape during a certain year?

Sorry if im not making sense

I would call them but im in the middle of the North Sea 

Hi all, about to order some new rear hubs for my buggy.

The beetle is originally a 1962 and has swing axel rear suspension. All the hubs on Machine 7 are for 68 onwards as far as I can see. I think this is when IRS took over, so my question is, will these hubs fit? Is the spline the same diameter for them to fit onto the end of the driveshafts?

Thanks in advance, Chris.

Hi, I'm in the process of a full rebuild on my manx replica and in the next few weeks i'll need my front beam refurbing

Needs the usual bushings / bearings / clean and grease etc. Its a later style adjustable beam, which is removed from the rest of the car and has been blasted and painted. All track rods, disks and the steering box has been removed, just the bare beam.

Does anyone have the gear to do it, and the experience of doing a few in the past to be able to sort it for me, please? I want someone tried and tested in this area rather than someone having a go 

Can deliver to anywhere within around 60 miles of Fleetwood, Lancs, in about a fortnight. Could do with an idea of a price too.

Cheers.

Thanks for the welcome, seems like a great site and I've already had some really handy info elsewhere on the forum.

As for the build I'm hoping to sort a few niggles along the way - the car has always been really difficult to get into 1st gear so I'm hoping with new bushes and mounts I can tighten things up and get her to go into 1st.

Having my pan shot blasted and new floors welded in, blasted and painted beam etc etc.

The build started with me thinking I would have the seats re-trimmed. A week later it was in pieces!

Im hoping the finished article will be something I can keep for years to come.

The body, for now, will be re bolted to the chassis. In the future when time and money permit I'll go for a new body, possibly in metalflake. Same with the engine. It's a 1600 with dual carb webber which so far hasn't let me down. Later I might beef it up to 1641 but again its just when time and cash allow.

I'll update you with my progress and no doubt have a few questions along the way!

Hope you're all having a good weekend, cheers, Chris.