Quote from: snoopy on May 07, 2021, 01:32:46 PM
Best put one filter inline between the tank and the pump as they can and do burst with pressure and start a fire is not good.
Simple spark check is a plug on the tin ware on any lead and get someone to spin it over you will see a spark, could be a faulty coil if it did 20 miles as they do fail and get to hot to work.

below



Hi snoopy would you recommend filter on tank side on mechanical fuel pumps as well.?

When I did my buggy rebuild the rear wheels looked exactly the same. Even with the engine in I thought my wheels were not sitting right, but it's not until you get it on the road that they will settle down and you get a true idea how they sit. Mine were fine without any adjustment. Good luck with the build

Thanks  thats a good clear video to some i have watched and well worth a try. 

Yes thats a good point and will definitely on my check list. Will have to do some research on the castor shims as not done that before.

Thank you Paul for your experience. As I know little about what has been done mechanically on my buggy (although it was reassuring to find all the grease nipples working and with some remains of grease when new pumped in) I will probably opt for refurbished units so I have a sound basis to start from.

Yes snoopy it's the link pins that are loose and seem to have reached their limit for adjustment. Looking at the whole link pin and king pin unit itself was just wondering if it's better getting a refurbished unit.
So can the link pins be changed without doing anything else or do you have change any of the bushes too.?

Thanks Rob. I see info and videos on how to check the amount of shims and probably worth a double check due to the age of the car as I'm sure parts have been changed over the years.

I have looked at some of the previous threads on this topic but wanted to get some feedback. The top king pins on my buggy probably need replacement. I have adjusted and regreased a few times but one of the top pins still has a lot of movement and in fact I think this is a reason why my steering is a bit wandering. Is it ok to just replace pins or should it be rebushed or may get a completely refurbished. I see Lime Bug do a range of refurbished parts on an exchange basis.
One more question...... What do guys fit on the front shocks ? As the Car is not carrying much weight on the front do you keep standard or softer ? Or go for fully adjustable.  Thanks for any feedback.

Quick update..... My heat risers are working great so another box ticked. I Have changed the jets in the carb to the larger one's supplied, and while taking a look at the original solex carb i took off I noticed the new sizes I just fitted are in fact the same size as the solex. Need to get the heat next into the carb but some fabrication needed for that one.
Car starts and idles great but still has a hint of hesitation but much better than before. I do have a Bosch vac carb in good condition to fit so think slowly will get it sorted. Will probably need to get the original solex carb reconditioned as well as I think all issues stem from there when I switched to a repro model.
May look for a rolling road tune to get the best from the engine although the Engine pulls really well when they foot goes down but there are some issues to be sorted there........tends to wander a bit at the moment..... New thread for that one. 

Now sold.

Darren, thanks for the postage money but can you drop me your address 

Funny you should say that as there was what looked like emulsified residue in the main pipework which I would normally be concerned about but then it clicked .... the engine is air cooled so water can only be coming from the air. I better open the breather up to keep things clear.
Thanks for the advice Rob.

Just another quick question for them in the know.
I have an oil breather pipe on my engine that has been sealed off sometime in the past, and some care in doing it with a soldiered end. Before I put it back on again is it worth opening this up again and extending it down as it was intended.?
The pipe from the air filter sits on top as normal.

Great feedback again guys, really appreciate the time and effort of all replies and all advise will be taken on board.

Thanks Merscury for the photo as I will have to make up a pickup for air as have an aftermarket air filter and not sure if I could get a standard oil filled filter on mine and still be able to put on the rear fibreglass cowling cover.

Well after a lot of faffing about and unbolting bits and pieces managed to get the heat risers out to get a better look. The initial bends in the risers made it really difficult to get anything up the pipes to do any good at cleaning.
Drilled into the back of the risers tube to get better access (saw this on a youtube video) which allowed me to drill down the blocked pipework. I picked up a cheap 8mm long drill bit for this and I did really need it as the coke was really compacted and had to literally drill the entire length. The pipework itself is in really good condition so odd it is so blocked.
Pipes now cleaned out and will do a quick patch to cover the hole......welded patch maybe.

Thanks Peter thats some great advice.

Well step one and I have removed the exhaust and found that the short pipes and plates that are attached to them have 2 different sizes holes as suggested. The left hand about 5mms and the right hand side 10mm(according to the drill bit sizes I can fit into them) but importantly do not go through into the exhaust itself so can not transfer any gases in this pipework. I checked the heat risers and although the initial pipes either side are clear I think the short length in the main casting is blocked as I am unable to get anything through and even the airline will not push any air through.
Looks like I will need to strip things down as try and clean out the risers.

Quote from: Dave DND on September 01, 2019, 10:36:24 PM
Carb manifold icing ?

Are your heater risers blocked maybe ?   

Not much time to work on the buggy this week and away all this weekend 
Did a few checks tonight and ran the engine until everything nice and not ..... except the heater risers, only a bit of metal to metal heat transfer. Will need to strip down and investigate. Good call Dave 
Also took the air filter off and put my hand over the air intake. Engine stopped immediately and a nice suction ring left on my palm so at least no major air leakage.
I think engine still must be running lean so will probably do some step by step test and change main jet and after richen up the acceleration mixture.