If you say that when it is warm and you stop it, it will start straight away. It sounds like your settings are about right However if you leave it for 10/15 mins, the choke will close and then of cause it will flood the engine! that is why I said you need to back the electric choke off a bit more. There are three screws holding the electric choke mechanism to the carb, put a mark with a marker pen joining it to the carb, for reference. undo the three screws a couple of turns and the choke unit should come loose enough to turn, however sometime the gasket will keep it tight lol. If so give it a tap, hopefully it should be free on a new carb. Then turn the unit so it moves an 1/8 inch against your marks "CLOCKWISE" and retighten the screws. It may need more, it just depends how close it was set up at the factory. Hope this helps

Rob

Could be fuel vapourisation in the carb when the engine is hot.

Agree I get the same on my twin 40 dells...

Could be fuel vapourisation in the carb when the engine is hot.

Agree I get the same on my twin 40 dells...

Out of interest, mine seems to start no problem when warm but takes 10 or 12 goes on the key to start when cold. I'm running twin Weber IDF 40's. They run beautifully since the rolling road sesh - just cold start issue. Is this normal? Is there a trick to it that I haven't learnt?

Well there is no chokes on IDF's or DRLA's, so to start cold it is a case of two prods on the throttle and turn the key and then catch it on the throttle as it fires. Sometimes it takes two or three goes but it should fire almost straight away so only give it two second burst on the starter between tries. In colder weather say below 10 degrees, I give it three prods at a time. It is of cause slightly different on different engines but this gives you the basic way. hope this helps

Rob

Have you got an elecy pump?
I turn the key to prime which can take a while if it's been standing or hot, when the pump slows and float bowls are full 2 pumps if cold none if hot.

When you say bogging down, going lumpy and chugging with black smoke or will not pick up and needs the accelerator used.

Annoying faults like this as there is no real fault to repair and say it is done, more just trial and error.
May be a weAk idle mixture that evaporates due to the heat build up when the engine is turned off and left before it cools after standing a while.

if I put my foot down hard it feels like it isn't getting enough fuel and hesitates , if I then back my foot off , it picks up again, when the garage had it on the emissions tester and revved it it was going very weak which I feel would explain it feeling starved of fuel when I put my foot hard down yet picks up again when I back off.

If you say that when it is warm and you stop it, it will start straight away. It sounds like your settings are about right However if you leave it for 10/15 mins, the choke will close and then of cause it will flood the engine! that is why I said you need to back the electric choke off a bit more. There are three screws holding the electric choke mechanism to the carb, put a mark with a marker pen joining it to the carb, for reference. undo the three screws a couple of turns and the choke unit should come loose enough to turn, however sometime the gasket will keep it tight lol. If so give it a tap, hopefully it should be free on a new carb. Then turn the unit so it moves an 1/8 inch against your marks "CLOCKWISE" and retighten the screws. It may need more, it just depends how close it was set up at the factory. Hope this helps
Thanks farmer rob , will look at that next
Rob

Have you got an elecy pump?
I turn the key to prime which can take a while if it's been standing or hot, when the pump slows and float bowls are full 2 pumps if cold none if hot.

no electric pump , I read that the hot start procedure I'd foot flat to the floor, which was definately better than just turning it over and catching it with the throttle pedal once it fired.

Is your fuel pump supplying enough pressure?

:-\i don't know but seeing that it starts fine from cold or when it is hot and turned off  and started again instantly, the problem is when it is left a while before a restart.

Just an idea but have you checked for air leaks on the inlet manifold ends or the carb spindles ??

i tightened all the clips which all went tighter but haven't tried anything else , do I spray this carb cleaner over the ends whilst it is running

Thanks Rob & Flags. Yes I have a leccy pump and it's been so long since I drove a VW that I'd forgotten about the two pumps on the pedal. Just the tip I was after. Ta guys

Could be fuel vapourisation in the carb when the engine is hot.

Agree I get the same on my twin 40 dells...

Out of interest, mine seems to start no problem when warm but takes 10 or 12 goes on the key to start when cold. I'm running twin Weber IDF 40's. They run beautifully since the rolling road sesh - just cold start issue. Is this normal? Is there a trick to it that I haven't learnt?

When cold try a couple of pumps on the pedal first.

Could be fuel vapourisation in the carb when the engine is hot.

Agree I get the same on my twin 40 dells...

Thanks , if it is percolation or vaporisation,( are they the same thing ?) is there a solution to it or a problem we have to live with  thanks
Out of interest, mine seems to start no problem when warm but takes 10 or 12 goes on the key to start when cold. I'm running twin Weber IDF 40's. They run beautifully since the rolling road sesh - just cold start issue. Is this normal? Is there a trick to it that I haven't learnt?

When cold try a couple of pumps on the pedal first.

Hi all , as per  farmer rob.s post to back off the electric choke, I did that so am going to try it in ten minutes now it has had a run. On the run it is still bogging down and lumpy,, feeling it needs clearing out, better in top over forty and with little throttle it seems ok but when you come to a hill or a junction and you need to give it some gas is when it bogs and you have to feed very gentle throttle pedal in to get it to pick up smoothly, any thoughts, thanks

Has it got a vacum advance distributor and if so does it work, removing and sucking on the carb end of the hose with the dizzy cap off you should see the distributor mechanism move.