Determining endfloat with no flywheel

Started by ben_w, February 23, 2013, 03:21:22 PM

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ben_w

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Guys,

Ill like to be able to tell if this 1500 case i have is any good or if its likely to need some work. It came with no flywheel so i couldnt tell if it had any endfloat. Im sure there is a way to tell though once the case is apart, which it is. I just cant remember it....!

Also, to determine if the crank needs any work, is it just a case of measuring the journals and seeing if they are still within tolerances?

Thanks.


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

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Manxdavid

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Best you can do is to check that the flywheel-end main bearing hasn't been 'floating' back and forward in the case, check that the dowel hole in the back of the bearing hasn't 'ovalled' which is a sure sign of movement. If the crank journals are smooth with no scoring and the old shells aren't down to the copper backing the they're usually OK but checking with a micrometer's best.
"Ah, Beach Buggies, sure, just a quick cheap way of getting a few more years out of a rusty Beetle. You can throw one together in a weekend." anon.

chrisbarker

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can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)
the arc built by Amateurs,the titanic built by professionals nuff said

Manxdavid

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Quote from: chrisbarker on February 23, 2013, 03:30:48 PM
can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)

No, that doesn't work.
"Ah, Beach Buggies, sure, just a quick cheap way of getting a few more years out of a rusty Beetle. You can throw one together in a weekend." anon.

chrisbarker

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Quote from: Manxdavid on February 23, 2013, 03:31:45 PM
Quote from: chrisbarker on February 23, 2013, 03:30:48 PM
can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)

No, that doesn't work.
fair enough but why not :)
the arc built by Amateurs,the titanic built by professionals nuff said

Manxdavid

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Because end float is set at with shims between the flywheel and the front main bearing. The crank is can move back and forwards by about 1/4" with the flywheel off. Excessive end float on an old engine is caused by the front (ie flywheel end) main bearing moving back and forwards in the case. They 'hammer' themselves loose after years of (ab)use.
"Ah, Beach Buggies, sure, just a quick cheap way of getting a few more years out of a rusty Beetle. You can throw one together in a weekend." anon.

ben_w

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David,

Thanks for that. I shall check the main front bearing for the bits you mentioned. To be honest, the inside of the engine looked pretty good. The shells looked ok and i couldnt see or feel any scoring on the crank. Would it be worth replacing them anyways or if the appear ok, leaving them?

The crank is going to need a little work anyway as the brass dizzy/fuel pump drive wheel is shot, so thats coming off and getting replaced. The barrels and pistons look ok, with no scoring etc.

Tempted to rebuild it and see if can get it running!


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump

chrisbarker

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thank you now i under stand ,so if the flywheel was on and engine in car then you could check from pulley?
the arc built by Amateurs,the titanic built by professionals nuff said

Peter

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Quotethank you now i under stand ,so if the flywheel was on and engine in car then you could check from pulley?

In theory, Yes Chris.

Though the drag that can be imparted by the gearbox input shaft could be misleading, also the input shaft
could interfere with the float by restricting it at the root of the flywheel bolt.

Ideally, and to be sure, this should be done with the engine not fitted to a gearbox.

Peter

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Hunter

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Quote from: ben_w on February 23, 2013, 03:44:09 PM
David,

Thanks for that. I shall check the main front bearing for the bits you mentioned. To be honest, the inside of the engine looked pretty good. The shells looked ok and i couldnt see or feel any scoring on the crank. Would it be worth replacing them anyways or if the appear ok, leaving them?

The crank is going to need a little work anyway as the brass dizzy/fuel pump drive wheel is shot, so thats coming off and getting replaced. The barrels and pistons look ok, with no scoring etc.

Tempted to rebuild it and see if can get it running!

Ben do it  ;)

Great experience and priceless to be honest...

H
Started with a LWB mk1 RAT
Now running SWB CTR

Handle every stressful situation like a dog.
If you can't eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away.

ben_w

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Yes boss!!


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump

farmer rob

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Hi Ben, You can bring your pile of bit's around to mine and I can go through them with you and find out whats good and what needs reconditioning

Rob

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Quote from: farmer rob on February 23, 2013, 06:57:23 PM
Hi Ben, You can bring your pile of bit's around to mine and I can go through them with you and find out whats good and what needs reconditioning

Rob

See...
See...
Robs been here 10mins and already you got help to get things sorted ben.

H
Started with a LWB mk1 RAT
Now running SWB CTR

Handle every stressful situation like a dog.
If you can't eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away.

ben_w

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Posts: 1,733
Sidewinder
Location: Leicestershire
Cheers Rob I might just do that!!

You around tomorrow at all?


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump

farmer rob

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Buggy Meister
Posts: 1,793
SWB Rat
Location: northants

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