Hi all.
As suggested I borrowed a torque multipler from a fellow VW man (thanks Mike) and WOW What a bit of kit.
Both nuts undone with no drama at all.

Multiplier works just as well on engine flywheel/crankshaft nut.

Hi all.
Sorry for the radio silence over the last couple of months. Burst water mains and the dreaded Covid meant I have not spent much time in the garage.

Anyway, as and when I had a bit of spare time I have managed to install new floors and get them primed ready for the top coat.





I decided to add box setion to the outer channels on the underside to strengthen the edges of the floopans. These have been welded in place and drilled through with the body mounting holes.

Once all was fully welded and the welds ground back, I treated the minor surface rust on the frame head and stripped back to bare metal the transport paint from the floors ready for priming.
I have decided to Raptor coat the chassis so in preparation I have applied Raptor 2K etch primer to both the top and bottom.





Next will be the application of the Raptor top coat.

Cheers
Steve

Morning.
Primer is now fully dry. I applied some auto body sealer to the joints to keep moisture out.
Ready for Raptor this weekend as long as the weather stays warm.




Cheers
Steve

 

Looking good Steve. 

Evening all.

Quick update.
6 coats of Rator bed line later (3 each side) and the floorpan is done.
I applied the Raptor with a 4" textured roller.
Hopefully this will last many years.







Front suspension beam and hubs next 👍

Cheers
Steve

Hi all.
An update for you on the Predator rebuild.
Over the last 3 months I have been working on getting the rolling chassis finished.
First the front suspension was completely rebuilt. As suggested by the midland buggy club I chatted with at the NEC  I have modified the leaves to soften the front suspension. Also converted to disc brakes.





The gearbox was clean up externally, etch primed and painted then fitted with new mountings.  I renewed the bearings in the axle tubes and fitted all new brake hardware to the existing (painted) backing plates. New drums to complete the rear brakes.





A new brake hydraulic system has been fitted. The master cylinder and all the brake lines (copper and flexi) have been renewed.







The pedals have been stripped, cleaned up and repainted and fitted to the floorpan. New clutch and brake cables installed at the same time.
These will need the length adjusting later.





I have fitted temporary wheels to the chassis to make it a roller.



I think this will do for the chassis for now.
I plan on getting the shell down from the roof of the garage  this week where it has been stored hanging from the joists and pressure wash it all off and make a start on repairs ready for painting.

Cheers
Steve

Looking fantastic. Seems you have everything in order and will end up with a solid, safe and stunning buggy.

Good to see a buggy build progressing.

Hi All,

Time for another Predator update.

I have got the body down from the roof and loosely placed it on the chassis.
The shell was given a thorough clean to remove the mud from the pervious owners fun.


First job was to construct a roll bar and door bar cage that will tie into the front hoop.
I bought a MSA Approved 44.45mm Dia tube hoop from 'Tube Bender' online bent to my spec. I added a pair of side bars and a cross bar behind the seats then tacked it all together.


A trial build was the next step with the roof to check all still fitted inside.
I got the roof from East Coast Buggies.




Onto filling all the holes I do not want, as you can see I have an opening bonnet so decided to make this a working feature.
I glassfibre filled the wing headlight bosses and the bonnet pin holes as they will not be required.
The headlight will be fitted to the bonnet light mounts.









The bulkhead also had many holes filled that were not required.


Once all smooth onto the hinges, I found some Hillman Imp hinges that seemed to fit the bill so bought these and installed them.
A bit of minor trimming on the front part of the shell (removed about 15mm) allowed the bonnet to open and close without restriction.








Last weekend I moved onto the petrol tank. As I am having bonnet mounted headlights the tank needs modifying to clear the headlight mounts.
I have cut out the areas as required and made some panels to fit.
These will be professionally TIG welded in place to ensure its all sealed.








That's me up to date as the end of September.

Steering column mock build and then onto the dreaded wiring.....

Cheers
Steve

Hi Steve, The rebuild is coming on now and looking very good. That Predator body looks like it may have been made by Mel Hubbard, it's absolutely 100% identical to mine, right down to the black flow coat on the underside, the opening bonnet even the colour is identical to mine. If it is a Mel Hubbard one the shell will have been made about 20 or 21 years ago.

Hi Merscury.
Thanks for the reply.
I believe it is a Mel Hubbard shell.
I have been told it was collected from Mel in november 2000 and put on the road in May 2001.

I have not seen many Buggys with an opening bonnet. Do you know if it was only the Mel produced shells that could of had this feature.

Cheers
Steve

The opening bonnet was produced by a friend of Bruce Meyers and was sold thru the Manx Club in the late 90s. Mel H had Bruce send a set over (bonnet, internal strengthener and scuttle panel) and took moulds from them. The moulds are still out there (East Coast Buggies I think).

They'll fit most Manx derived kits, Predators, Sidewinders, GPs etc.

Hi Manxdavid.

Thanks for the information. Always nice to know the history behind why something is this way.
I like the opening bonnet. It.will help alot with maintenance.

Cheers
Steve.

Wish I had gone for an opening bonnet, the first year of owning my buggy and getting to the fuel tank was a pain.  Had to remove the windscreen, dashboard, headlights every time. 😂😂 in the end we were like a formula one team because of doing it so many times 😂😂👍