I agree with Keith here. There is no good substitute for an original VW steering box.  Due to age originals will be worn, some severely, but there is an engineering firm over here in the UK that specialises in returning original VW steering boxes etc back to original spec.

I had the garage look at that, may try myself having looked at a YouTube video. Loosen the nut and tighten the screw till it just binds. Is that correct?

Paul do you have there contact details, as you know I live abroad. Maybe I could by a refurbished one, and drop mine off when I can travel. Thanks Gary

Paul do you have there contact details, as you know I live abroad. Maybe I could by a refurbished one, and drop mine off when I can travel. Thanks Gary

You can find the company here.  I have a refurbished box from them that I haven't got round to fitting yet, but will.

https://www.facebook.com/N2Aircooled/

N2engineering

https://n2engineering.co.uk/

Don`t get frightened when you take a look at their facebook pages and see classic porsche gearbox refurbs...  In my opinion the £200 charged to refurb a steering box is a bargain.  (For you there will be international carriage charges to take into account).

Steering box is adjusted as you say. Back in the 70`s it was the done thing to tighten up the box operation by turning the adjuster screw just before mot but this was obviously just a trick to get a mot pass and on a worn box the steering would stiffen up considerably at full lock.   A truly worn box just cannot be adjusted to any satisfactory position. That`s not to say you cannot find a half decent original but that`s what it will be.

to adjust the box you do the large end nut and plug to set the bearing pressure then adjust the top grub screw. easy to strip and check the bearings and the surface they run on but you cannot buy the shaft that wears out with the bearing running on it.

I had the garage look at that, may try myself having looked at a YouTube video. Loosen the nut and tighten the screw till it just binds. Is that correct?

That's wrong and the reason most old boxes are scrap. All that does is adjust the  roller to worm contact. It's really important that you take the play out of the worm bearings first by loosening the large lock nut and adjusting the nut shaped plug.
Not sure on the more modern Haynes manuals but the early ones covered steering box adjustment really well.
I've spoken to the guy at N2Aircooled and he really seems to know his stuff.

Guys looking at the steering column, it's wobbling all over the place. Not normal I am guessing? I have a short video but can't upload it.
Gary

Not how it should be...... But you would be amazed to see what some people seem happy to drive about with. There is a thread somewhere on here that shows a column held in place by what looks to be red electricians tape.   Needs to be secure.   

Gary..... Cannot seem to get whats app to recognise your number. Got the email video.....  Will take some photo`s of my column support. Many other members have made their own. The "hole" which your column goes through is diabolical but have seen much worse.

In the meantime here is an overview of the VW steering box types. Basically 2.... normally referred to as "early" & "late" versions.
1st photo shows them side by side. (These 2 are destined for a visit to N2 engineering shortly). The one on the left is the late version and the bulkier one on the right is the early version. The tapered holes into which the track rod ends fit differ in size as do the ball screwed ends. Early has small taper with M10 threaded section. Late has larger taper with M12 threaded section. You can tell which you have by nut size. 17mm spanner fits the smaller version, (early). 19mm spanner fits larger version. (late).



2nd photo shows two types of Pitman arm...  Now then putting the cat among the pigeons here I guess  ... It`s commonly thought that the Pitman Arm with the forged extension is specific to the later disc brake versions of Beetles etc and that the King/Link pin did not have the stop arm extension. Mostly this is correct but there were early Beetles with the Pitman arm that has the extended forging.  This photo shows both early type versions. The holes on each of the arms are of the smaller taper variety. The joints are Meyle early versions. The larger of the two boxes from which the Pitman arm with the extension was removed is from a 1961/2 Beetle that was supplied new to Jersey. The island had a blanket speed limit then of 30mph and the Beetle passed to a uk based relative with exceptionally low mileage. I obtained the box and other parts from this individual so it`s certain that the box is that fitted at Wolfsburg.





3rd photo of the original early track control arm with integral crimped on rod end fitting into the Pitman Arm with the extension.




Note early box has accessible adjuster on the shaft. (Has flat surface for spanner etc). Also the top screw/nut adjuster. This box is filled with grease. Later box is filled with Hypoid oil.

More asap.

You have them round the wrong way Paul.

The early boxes are oil filled as they are worm and sector.
Latter boxes may be grease or oil filled depending on what version.
You have also missed the worm adjustor off the latter box.

Have a look here: http://www.beachbuggy.info/index.php/topic,11134.0.html

Hi Flags.... Yes you are right.... Don`t hesitate to correct me.  Despite covid lockdown my lifestyle is hectic and I am trying my level best to assist folk via this forum, phone and email. I cannot seem to get whats app to work with Gary who lives in one of the canary isles. I know you have a good deal of knowledge regarding steering boxes. When I get time I will dig out my one remaining official Wolfsburg VW instruction manual for VW main agent mechanics. I kept this one as it has all the tolerance data of every part of an air cooled engine, 1200, 1300. 1500 & 1600. The official method of checking/adjusting/dismantling/rebuilding is staggering in it`s scope and requires half a dozen VW tools including a mock up of a section of the top tube.  Take care, stay safe and keep on keeping me right.   

Paul
WhatsApp seems to have stopped working outside UK. Tried Spain and Oz many times over the last few months and never worked video or voice. My wife is on Facebook and the messenger part worked for voice but didn't try video

Nice to know it`s not a crazy 68 year olds lack of mobile comms device understanding for once. Cheered me up no end...

Gary.....  You have a late version of steering box. As I said the max amount of free play in the box.. ie the amount the steering wheel turns before the wheels turn was 1" back when I was a lad. That`s VW official figure. That is not an unusual amount for cars back then with steering boxes.  The amount you say you have is extremely excessive. Check the rod ends for play also.

The hole you have in the tub for the steering column to come through is far too large and if I am seeing the emailed video correctly the way the column simply falls about all over the place isn`t normal by a long long way. I am going to post pictures for you and try to describe what I have in place. The thing to remember is that I am trying to meet the IVA requirement to the very best I can so you do not need anything so comprehensive but you will see some basic principles that will help you to get to a position where the column is firmly attached, is as lined up as well as can be, and so on..  As you are planning to get your box refurbed, and if done properly will pay dividends for years to come, let me know when you are ready to refit it and ask any question you like as many times as you like. There are many other guys on here who will fall over backwards to help 

So with regard to that massive hole in the tub. I would glass this up again. I keep a few aluminium plates of varying sizes. If you use some light oil to wipe  the side you are going to place toward the tub inside, wedge the plate in place as firmly as you can. Cut up some fibreglass tissue really finely. mix it up with the resin , push a layer of the mix over the inner surface of the plate firmly pushing it against the plate. Let it go off and then fill to full depth. Remove the plate after leaving overnight and the surface of the repair will be mirror smooth.... If this seems a bit much plate over the hole... 

Here is how I used the tub wall to give a secure fixing of the steering column at the point where the column tube passes thro. (Ignore the other support in the photo for the moment as it`s not relevent to this point....)





The plate up against the tub is duplicated on the other side making a sandwich with the tub wall in the centre.. The is a forum member called Mathew, id.. parymu.... not sure I have spelt this right but he can offer a plate similar but not as large as I have had to use. His comes with a central seal and the nuts and bolts. (Mathew.. can you introduce yourself and the old skool business to Gary).  Mathew is also on ebay.

The two plates I have used along with seals both sides means at this point on the tub the column tube cannot move about in the hole through the fibreglass..   Will it keep the water out... certainly find that out immediately up my way....

More to follow.