Hi all
Looking to buy a buggy which has a king and link pin chassis.
can anyone advise how easy/hard it is to do a disc coversion on an early chassis with a king and link pin front end? I see a conversion kit on Justkampers (link below). Is this a good way to go - or should i consider changing front end to ball and joint? And what are implications here (as i was advised that king and link pin limits disk brake conversion on the front as you have to add drop spindles which lower the front end)
Any idea of costs also assuming a pro did the work
Many thanks

https://www.justkampers.com/air-cooled-vw-parts/vw-beetle-parts/braking-system/brake-discs-backing-plates-fittings/22-2880-0-front-disc-brake-kit-5-x-205-vw-beetle-1956-1965.html

Hi again.... Photos and description of conversion going into my build thread. Search Members Buggies   "Birth Of A Buggy".

I done an EMPI conversion for all 4 brakes to disc. Pretty straight forward and the kits instructions are good.

If you upgrade to a dual master brake cylinder the residual pressure valves helps keep the pedal firm. Place them as near as possible to the outlet of the master cylinder.
I've never had issues locking them up apart from when I have really needed to stamp on them, then again that was only to see if they actually would lock up. Normal driving they are perfect. Instant, smooth and maintenance free in comparison to drums. Plus the weigh less too!

Well worth doing.

I've also done the conversion to all four wheels. Dropped spindles, standard discs and callipers fro Heritage. Tears are from CSP, awesome build quality and pretty straightforward fit, apart from replacing the rear bearings.
Dual master cylinders. Got psv's But never fitted

I done an EMPI conversion for all 4 brakes to disc. Pretty straight forward and the kits instructions are good.

If you upgrade to a dual master brake cylinder the residual pressure valves helps keep the pedal firm. Place them as near as possible to the outlet of the master cylinder.
I've never had issues locking them up apart from when I have really needed to stamp on them, then again that was only to see if they actually would lock up. Normal driving they are perfect. Instant, smooth and maintenance free in comparison to drums. Plus the weigh less too!

Well worth doing.

The kits do tend to come with a left hand drive master cylinder.  The uprated cylinder they use for disks all round is actually from a Golf MK I and you can save a lot of money by buying the cylinder and then the fitting kit for it.

I done an EMPI conversion for all 4 brakes to disc. Pretty straight forward and the kits instructions are good.

If you upgrade to a dual master brake cylinder the residual pressure valves helps keep the pedal firm. Place them as near as possible to the outlet of the master cylinder.
I've never had issues locking them up apart from when I have really needed to stamp on them, then again that was only to see if they actually would lock up. Normal driving they are perfect. Instant, smooth and maintenance free in comparison to drums. Plus the weigh less too!

Well worth doing.

I considered Empi.... Half the total outlay compared to CSP... I opted for CSP for 2 reasons. One the CSP is TUV approved and comes with a TUV approval certificate which is a great help for iva. The other reason is quite some years ago I was involved with fitting a Empi kit but it was of dire construction and not fit for use in my opinion. However, although I have never seen the revised version, I suspect that from your comments that Empi must have got their act together and sorted the initial issue of the caliper flexing all over the place. (Not to be mistaken for the "floating caliper" normal movement). Empi would be the most cost effective solution.   Left hand drive master cylinder... CSP have a universal unit but that is another story and will include it in my build thread.

I fitted the EMPI, but if buying again would get the CSP.  The CSP the disc and hub are separate items that bolt together, where as the EMPI is one solid rotor.

Ah.... This I didn`t remember. Yes the csp is a two piece assembly. The rotors and studs are available as separate items. 

I've also done the conversion to all four wheels. Dropped spindles, standard discs and callipers fro Heritage. Tears are from CSP, awesome build quality and pretty straightforward fit, apart from replacing the rear bearings.
Dual master cylinders. Got psv's But never fitted

Paul... glad you agree with the build quality.... CSP rear kit..... suspect I will go down this route eventually when I have saved up some pension monies.. What was the issue with the rear bearing... just so I know in advance.   Thanks P.

Hi  Paul , yes The CSP kit is excellent. I decided to change the rear bearing when I stopped out the brakes. The issue was I didn't have a proper puller to extract the originals. Ended up making a bodge to extract. A real pain. The correct extractor is a multi legged affair which pulls on the inner race.
Pail

Should have guessed this...  I guess that due to my age and decades of car involvement I have built up a stash of tools greater than I realise. I have, from the seventies, 3 legged pullers of 3 differing sizes. Havint the "right tool for the job" is a plus. The largest of the pullers I swear at more than any other tool. If we had three hands fine but with two hands and a 3 legged puller plus the spanner\wrench on the opposite end you just get three legs in place move a hand to the spanner and a leg falls away over and over again till the puller is locked in place    It`s all well and good spending on tools but it only makes sense if you are going to use them repeatedly. Another good tool is a "bearing puller of the semi circular shape designed to pull a bearing off a tight shaft. 

Depending on the size of the puller you can put a big elastic band on it to help hold the legs on while you juggle spanners or put a zip tie on them before fitting, hold In place with one hand and pull tight with the other.

Still sometimes moves but usually works for me

Do you know what.... Never thought of this.... It would work   

I had to 'bastardise the feet of my three legs puller to fit. Biggest issue was the distance from the bearing races to the end of the wheel spindle. My legs weren't long enough. Saying that I am a member of the northern middle earth society. Yes, I've hairy toes

Hi Paul... Understand this. Have done the same in the past.    Is all the trouble getting a buggy up and running\keeping it going really worth it in the end. I hope so but at the rate I am going I suspect I will be senile by the time i`m on the road.   

That's part of the fun. I have to send myself reminders for everything now. Not dribbling yet, probably will we we see how good a job you've done when you pass the IVA