Tomorrow I am going to be cutting the hole for the steering column in the firewall and before I go and make a huge mistake I thought I'd ask and seek advice as been 24 odd years last time I did it.
What I've done is take the donut off and bolt the 2 halves of the steering coupler together with a piece of metal tube slid down the spline then levelled and pushed to the firewall, marked, centred and pilot drilled.
My thinking is that I'm not using a uj just straight shaft so it needs to be straight in both directions as per photo.
Have I missed something or is that accurate enough to drill a hole?
(https://i.postimg.cc/8kxrF905/IMG-8174.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DmdzHjFk)
Suggest to put a steering wheel on the end, sit in the seat and see how the steering position feels
Quote from: Dave DND on March 04, 2025, 10:32:53 PMSuggest to put a steering wheel on the end, sit in the seat and see how the steering position feels
I can mount the adjustable support bracket with G clamps and i've got a short 1303 column if its the same size tube so i could mock it up and see but if there's no movement in the shaft apart from a bit of up and down on the rubber coupler i can't see there's much i can change other than a few mm up or down without stressing the joint to the point it splits Dave.
Using u/j's the alignment is not so important as you have angles in the shaft using the beetle collapsible part any deflection will weaken it until it fails.
I have the original part i used when i made the green one in 1998, a mk3 cortina bottom link that bolts direct to the beetle coupler holes and then to a shortened shaft of the beetle column that also has a UJ in it and worked without any issues so i may look at using that.
My column doesn't have the collapable section in it anymore as i had it cut out and replaced last time i adjusted it.
This is the bottom link i used before:
(https://i.postimg.cc/dVs8N4PC/Screenshot-2025-03-05-at-08-46-18.png) (https://postimg.cc/XpPGpKvN)
Well I've cut the hole after drilling a smaller one and passing copper tube through the same length as the steering column. It's roughly if not identical to the position of the GT column as the marks I made on the outer match with the adjustable support bracket that flatlands sold.
I have set it all up and G clamped the brackets to the firewall rather than drill and offered the front up.
That's when it all went to poo:
It would seem the sidewinder dash I'd not designed for a standard beetle column?
Obviously I have to not h the dash to allow it to sit down like I did to the original GT but even so the shroud is still going to foul on the dash face .
What now?
I have a gap distance of about 2 inches from thigh to wheel so it can't come down anymore really but I might be able to move it slightly to the right but as it is it's sitting centre to me and the seat so correct.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSvcPDwT/IMG-8193.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Y7pTNQ2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/X7kk6rg5/IMG-8194.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hfhd9P64)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bnh5tRkQ/IMG-8195.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21ZLK9CP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDs5mVRg/IMG-8196.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w34tTYvC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FK8jV3hM/IMG-8197.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLbptLpy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Lf3zmr1/IMG-8198.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwbLFyJr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJHWLbZD/IMG-8199.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2DnMwGz)
you are going to have to chop the original mounting off and put one onto the dash frame at the back then rather than cut the dash I would be tempted to reshape the column outer to clear the fiberglass.
Early dashboards were designed to use what was available at the time so a straight column with just an indicator switch at the top no cowl or locking column.
Quote from: snoopy on March 05, 2025, 04:56:33 PMyou are going to have to chop the original mounting off and put one onto the dash frame at the back then rather than cut the dash I would be tempted to reshape the column outer to clear the fiberglass.
Early dashboards were designed to use what was available at the time so a straight column with just an indicator switch at the top no cowl or locking column.
That column is just in for ease as the correct one i'm going to use has a steering wheel still on it so yes the mounting is cut off the other but it shows the issue with the cover fouling the dash edge more with that one so its really for ease of measuring it all up. I have a 1303 full column and UJ pity it doesn't fit the box end with the spline or it could be a good fix by moving the lot over 20 mm and using the UJ to box.
Got fed up with it all today, i got so annoyed with it i had to walk away from it for an hour or so and take the bike out then come back.
The idea was to just install it all back as it was with the GT i had but that's got tits up now and by the look of it i'm going to have to cut the hole to the right about 20-30mm and try and use the flex in the rubber joint to have it offset slightly to help
If anyone knows what UJ will bolt direct either box or flex joint thread please post it up so i can see if i can get it to work.
Well looked at it again today and figured it out, i think!
I have a 1303 column and a couple of polo mk1 bottom UJ couplers, 2 standard beetle columns and a lot of time!
I've found out that one end with the fine splines on the polo joints fits perfectly on the 1303 shaft and one of the other joints i have fits perfect on the splines of the beetle coupler and its adjustable and all slots together so the plan now is to notch the dash where the column will sit so i can get it at the correct height, pass it through the firewall and clamp it up in the column support bracket, take the front back off and bolt the polo UJ's to the beetle spline then mark the beetle shaft where it needs to be cut, cut the 1303 spline off that shaft and sleeve it, plug weld it and maybe even roller pin it so it all fits together and has a double UJ and the column is in the correct place not to foul the dash and is in the correct driving position.
Last thing then is to fabricate a nice alloy or stainless plate to go over the now larger than it should be hole and then fit the manx type column support so it looks nice and tidy and supports the tube through the firewall as well as being clamped in the adjustable column support so it doesn't flop about with the UJ's on the other end.
I also found out that the entire top end with ignition etc are interchangeable between 1303 and normal beetle and MK1 polo splines fit well with the beetle splines.
Fingers crossed it'll soon be in.
On another note one of the knuckles has a sticky X bearing in the UJ, can these be changed and how?
Some good news and interesting interchangeability info but the column u/j's are built and crimped together so sold complete. Grinding the crimps off on opposite sides you may get it apart but no idea if you can get new bearings and caps.
If a new unit is unavailable I would go for a good soak in thin oil and see if it frees off then get some spray grease into it .
Quote from: snoopy on March 07, 2025, 07:40:30 AMI would go for a good soak in thin oil and see if it frees off then get some spray grease into it .
I`ve found that Motorcycle Chain Spray Grease seems particularly good for doing this on UJs ;-)up
Soaked the sticky UJ in oil overnight, pulled it out this morning and its solid!
Plan B then, use the complete 6N2 linkages i have and keep an eye out for another like i one i want.
Also spoken to my mate Gary wh has a sidewinder and he said it came with the single column Mel Hubbard used to put in them and when he changed it for a beetle one he had to slightly skew it to the right to clear the dash and the panel where the column sits is slotted to allow the height of the steering or the wheel sits in your lap!
Goos to know its not just me then and i can crack on with it once the sleeve tube arrives.
For reference the polo 6n2 double UJ, the fine spline end fits perfect on a 1303 and the spline of the steering flange one end but the other is a course spline but after trying it, it does gripe the flange tight and doesn't slip so it'll work and get welded after bolted.
The mk1 polo knuckle has fine splines one end that fits perfect to beetle splines and a 1303 shaft and the other end is a smooth type connection that also fits beetle splines on the steering flange perfectly, typical that's the one that's shot!
Update on parts swapping: I've not been impressed with the current VW steering coupler donut and although i will not need one with the set up once done i bought a kit for a MK1 escort /mk 3 cortina that is far better quality than the VW stuff plus it has brass inserts to support it and also has safety strips from one side to the other so worth a look if you're not happy with VW ones.
Steering rod coupler is an issue with modern reproduction replacements. I have yet to come across any flourorubber that comes close to original latex based rubber for quality and durability However one thing I have come across quite a few times now is cracking splitting caused directly by over tightening of the bolt & nuts. Stick to VW`s torque setting with 100% dry threads. (i.e .. no grease). You can use G10 grade nyloc nuts but the original style locking tabs are still available. Of all the items on a buggy, or a beetle it`s this coupler that I would take a close look at regularly with the wheel off the vehicle.
Quote from: Paul1953 on March 08, 2025, 04:48:53 PMSteering rod coupler is an issue with modern reproduction replacements. I have yet to come across any flourorubber that comes close to original latex based rubber for quality and durability However one thing I have come across quite a few times now is cracking splitting caused directly by over tightening of the bolt & nuts. Stick to VW`s torque setting with 100% dry threads. (i.e .. no grease). You can use G10 grade nyloc nuts but the original style locking tabs are still available. Of all the items on a buggy, or a beetle it`s this coupler that I would take a close look at regularly with the wheel off the vehicle.
Agree, hopefully with my set up i'll not be using any rubber donut