I've been out in the garage this morning just offering things up and measuring etc and am baffled by the front body mount length!
i understand where they bolt too so no eye rolling please :D but by the name they should support the body but these are about 3/4 inch longer than where the body is so then got me thinking, do they support the tank as it sits in the front slightly raised or body or do i alter them to make them fit?
As far as i am aware they should bolt to the beam tube and sit under the body lip and then the tank sits in the front supported by said body mounts :-\
Secondly, With the GT shell there are 2 downward high ridges on the front bulk head, not sure if others have it? When i've put a laser on the box spline to see where i cut the hole it is half on and half off the ridge, should it go through the centre of it or just where it lines up? going to look ugly half and half
Not sure if this helps or hinders, but this shows my own front body mounts that also support the tank
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2p0gv3v/P1040018.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jW8WGzs)
Thanks Dave, yes helps a lot and that's how i thought they should fit but mine seem to be way too long, might have to look at whacking one end flat and making my own bend then.
Steering column is also about the same position as mine so i may add a daub UJ so i can move it to where i want but until i put a seat back in i can't really be sure where its going
steering column off set in the moulding is not unusual
Thats what i thought but it doesn't please the eye Snoopy
It may not please the eye but it is hidden and driver comfort is more important for using the buggy. Put 2 u/j's in to replace the collapsible section or bottom of the early column then you can move the alignment.
That was my next plan, have a look for double UJ"s and get the big welder out.
I've also got to cut and shut the front of the tank and for some reason it's pressing on the rag joint so might have to either cut that bit out and modify it or raise the tank a bit once ive done the front lump removal.
when using 2 u/j's ditch the rubber coupling and bolt the column coupling straight to the box.
Quote from: cunningstunt on February 22, 2025, 10:57:48 AM
Secondly, With the GT shell there are 2 downward high ridges on the front bulk head, not sure if others have it? When i've put a laser on the box spline to see where i cut the hole it is half on and half off the ridge, should it go through the centre of it or just where it lines up? going to look ugly half and half
Mine ended up half and half, too. It's not right, looks awful with the front off but doesn't show with everything bolted together. (I still know it's there though!)
Quote from: snoopy on February 23, 2025, 07:06:53 PM
when using 2 u/j's ditch the rubber coupling and bolt the column coupling straight to the box.
That's the preferred option to get the column in the correct place, any idea of what spline or size UJ fits?
Quote from: Luddite on February 24, 2025, 09:18:28 AM
Quote from: cunningstunt on February 22, 2025, 10:57:48 AM
Secondly, With the GT shell there are 2 downward high ridges on the front bulk head, not sure if others have it? When i've put a laser on the box spline to see where i cut the hole it is half on and half off the ridge, should it go through the centre of it or just where it lines up? going to look ugly half and half
Mine ended up half and half, too. It's not right, looks awful with the front off but doesn't show with everything bolted together. (I still know it's there though!)
My thoughts exactly
Quote from: cunningstunt on February 24, 2025, 08:50:20 PM
Quote from: snoopy on February 23, 2025, 07:06:53 PM
when using 2 u/j's ditch the rubber coupling and bolt the column coupling straight to the box.
That's the preferred option to get the column in the correct place, any idea of what spline or size UJ fits?
Measure the shaft diameter the splines do not align with ones in the column they are a rough grip surface, the cut out where the shouldered bolt goes through to clamp it tight is a mechanical lock on top of the clamping force. you also need a female to go into the upper column.
you can weld it solid after as the 2 bolts through the steering box T mean it will disconnect if needed.
I'll give it a look at tomorrow