I thought I'd better start a build thread since I finally seem to be getting somewhere now..
A quick introduction, bought my first beetle in 1989, the one you see here is my 6th. Previously owned a bay, two splits and a Karmann Ghia convertible, one of the splits has been sold to fund the buggy project leaving the current fleet of a 67 split, a 67 Ghia and a pile of 72 beetle bits..
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yz03yh9/002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ph6f620K)
(https://i.postimg.cc/25hGwhxX/001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJWbWJRQ)
It's been a few years since I bought a beetle, the £300 knacker doesn't seem to exist anymore so I had to dig deep, this 72 1300 cost £1650 with the delivery. Looks a lot better than it was.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fTQXNyYY/011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLbL8gJ0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YNCrVHy/015.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7ffPgSJB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qfQwWNh/017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HnGQTyK)
I imagine most of us have got pictures like this.. hopefully things will get more interesting soon..
It`s a Hi from me ;-)up ;-)up ;-)up
Great start. Sounds like you are well in control but do post if you need a part or 'get stick'.
Hi and welcome.
Just a note, I'm not sure what your V5C reads but if you need to send it off to get it changed do it before you even drill any additional holes in the floors etc. Do it when the floorpan is completely standard. DVLA have gone a little mad recently regarding what constitutes a standard chassis. I'd suggest getting the floors replaced or repaired then mounting the body and try and get any logbook changes done then.
Yes.... Listen to Dave..... no hole drilled whatsoever.
Quote from: Paul1953 on July 28, 2023, 08:57:59 AM
Yes.... Listen to Dave..... no hole drilled whatsoever.
They recently referred a Formosa kit car (based on a completely standard Triumph Herald chassis) for IVA testing because the builder had simply enlarged the stock body mounting holes to take a size larger bolt. Also the famous case of the EV conversion on the Mini that supposedly needed IVA test because of two holes drilled for cable routing.
They've gone goblin lately, they don't even know let alone follow their own rules. :o
Thanks for the advice regarding the V5 changes. I was worried as there are a few changes all in one go, engine size and number, colour and body type. I gather the best I can hope for under body type is 'convertible' .
Take care Dougie..... Check chassis vin number is exactly the same as on v5c. Presumably the existing v5c has Beetle and saloon on it.
Dvla have been, and continue to ratify the complex mess that their records system became following decades of mish mash incompetence when registering changes.
Obtain a Beetle birth certificate. This will confirm the original model, vin number, engine number and place of manufacture. Keep it safe for future use.
The cliff edge that now exists for people trying to update home built vehicle V5C`s is that there have now been a number of cases where the K & R department, (and this is where the request for change/s ends up in all cases regardless of where the application is sent), whereby the applicants V5C has been cancelled and the applicant notified that a request for a Q plate is required, There is currently only one way to move that forward at that point and that is via iva inspection and re-registration upon a iva pass. (applies to unmodified chassis variants).
Here I am not trying to put you or anyone else off - just simply trying to make you aware that it`s essential to "look before you leap".
Good luck and let us know how things progress for you with the dvla brotherhood.
Quote from: Dougie on July 30, 2023, 10:39:05 AM
Thanks for the advice regarding the V5 changes. I was worried as there are a few changes all in one go, engine size and number, colour and body type. I gather the best I can hope for under body type is 'convertible' .
Do you have the V5 in your name? If so send the logbook off now to get engine size and number changed. Put down exact size not just a generic '1600' or whatever. According to their rules you don't need any receipts or engineer reports etc as it's a classic vehicle but sometimes they need reminding of their own rules and a covering letter stating such wouldn't do any harm together with a receipt if you have one.
When you've changed the body fill in a V627/1 stressing 'standard VW' / unmodified and 'standard wheelbase ' at every opportunity. Enclose a few photos, not too many, some of the donor car with number plates showing would help, chassis and engine numbers and a shot of a tape measure showing wheelbase plus some general shots.
Here's a form that sent off a couple of years ago that got changed with no problems but they may want to inspect it, it's just the luck of the draw.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9QgvY8x6/Screenshot-20220628-095125-1.png) (https://postimg.cc/pm8G2ZMC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gp1vVrSG/Screenshot-20220627-203520.png) (https://postimg.cc/rDQdt6Tw)
Thanks again, I've already bought the engine that will eventually be going in so I can get the V5C amended for that. At present the only details on the car are 'Volkswagen Saloon'.
Two paths to go down then as I see it. It`s just not possible to say if one is better than the other. Over the years I have come across folk who have made V5C changes, multiple change or singular, whereby one individual has had no issue and had the revised V5C back in a week or so. Then others have had to wait weeks, some being asked for more info, and so on.
For consideration.....
Path 1.... Send off the V5C with a request to change the engine number. Progress with the build and apply again for a change of colour when you are or have rebodied the chassis. Then same again with a request for change to make and model.
Path 2... Apply for all changes in one go ensuring that you have looked at the form Dave has shown and that it is filled in fully. Important... The section that requires detail of how you disposed of left over bits... Here simply itemise "items used for build and state that all other parts recycled in correct manner at correct re-cycling centres". (Form V627/1 available from the .gov site as is the form that gives advise on filling in). (Dave`s form is of an example that was successful so it is your best guide).
My experience with dvla, (should say latest experience which was December last year), and just to give some idea how K & R have helped improve things in my opinion and how they yet have quite some way to go.....
Remember this was an application for re-registration of a vehicle following the successful IVA examination. (IVA is VOSA led not DVLA).
Forms submitted to DVLA...... Now then here is how weird DVLA response to changes vary so much.... IVA Certificate which went to DVLA and is kept by them had Make... Meyers Manx..... Model.... Beach Buggy. Registration application form had.... Make - Meyers Manx. Model - Beach Buggy.... V5C came back... Make - Meyers Manx. Model - Sports.
It`s a tho the words "beach buggy" has some sort of allergy attached to it. Yet there are V5C`s with beach buggy on them so the system obviously can accept the two words...
All in all my thoughts are.... get a V5C sorted with what ever they deem suitable as a description and get out there and drive it as much as you can. A piece of paper will go in a drawer out of sight once you have it. ;-)up ;-)up
.
Quote from: Dougie on July 31, 2023, 06:57:40 AM
Thanks again, I've already bought the engine that will eventually be going in so I can get the V5C amended for that. At present the only details on the car are 'Volkswagen Saloon'.
Is the model section of the V5C blank or does it state eg '1300' or Beetle?
If it does indeed just state VW and Saloon then I'd be inclined not to bother them beyond changing the engine size/number and then at a later date, the colour.
If anyone questions the 'saloon' bit then just say you've left the removable hard top at home.
Can I assume the tax class is already down as 'Historic'?
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3ftS2nW/018.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsV0ShCz)
After cutting out the old floor pans, everything underneath was coated with this thick black gloop. There was a time when people used to underseal their cars with old engine oil, as it wasn't set hard it wasn't too bad to scrape off. A bit of a sticky mess but I now have a clean chassis which needs no repairs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SN24srPG/019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhvCYMTD)
Did you read my last post?
Quote from: Manxdavid on July 31, 2023, 11:47:47 AM
Quote from: Dougie on July 31, 2023, 06:57:40 AM
Thanks again, I've already bought the engine that will eventually be going in so I can get the V5C amended for that. At present the only details on the car are 'Volkswagen Saloon'.
Is the model section of the V5C blank or does it state eg '1300' or Beetle?
If it does indeed just state VW and Saloon then I'd be inclined not to bother them beyond changing the engine size/number and then at a later date, the colour.
If anyone questions the 'saloon' bit then just say you've left the removable hard top at home.
Can I assume the tax class is already down as 'Historic'?
Manxdavid, V5C just shows Volkswagen , model is blank, body type is Saloon. I've sent it off with the new engine number, size and the receipt so that should go through without any issues. It's also down as Historic.
Others may argue but as I said I may be inclined just to change the colour (or order a body in green 💚) and leave it as-is seeing as it doesn't say Beetle.
Would this car not be correctly described as a green VW saloon?
(https://i.postimg.cc/1X4zhvv7/classic-manx-buggy-side-lee-cooksey-600x400.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Patience may be needed. DVLA focus is currently to prioritise the on- line applications that are not automated. Postal applications, lead time is quoted as 4 to 6 weeks. I have had response within 3 weeks on average.
Let us know how it goes ;-)up ;-)up
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbFzQCPb/024.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4K6kz6sC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mk4GT5yT/025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLmzgNzz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPpqqMzq/026.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsD5xx96)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLrMV8z5/027.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crpbXvDd)
New floors welded in, seam sealed and the whole floorpan given a good coat of Rustoleum. Boxes of bits ready to build up to a rolling chassis... body should be ready for collection in 2-3 weeks, it would be nice to have somewhere to put it.
;-)up
When you've got it rolling take photos of it with a tape measure showing standard wheelbase plus all of the standard seat runners etc just in case DVLA ask. ;-)up
Quote from: Manxdavid on August 13, 2023, 07:06:37 PM
When you've got it rolling take photos of it with a tape measure showing standard wheelbase plus all of the standard seat runners etc just in case DVLA ask. ;-)up
Will do. I'm dubious about welding the adjusters into the front beam now, even though I don't consider the front beam part of the chassis. Am I over thinking this?
I think you probably are overthinking it but you could always drape a mucky rag over the adjusters for the photos just in case whoever views them doesn't know their #rs# from their elbow. If they send an inspector you'd think they'd be better informed though :-\
I'd always go for drop spindles over adjusters any day though.
Any signs of your logbook being returned yet?
No need to show the axle in the photos if you are worried about adjusters just take pictures where they cannot be seen floor pan modifications is what they are looking for, so a side view with a tape measure hub to hub for wheel base and no extra holes in the pan.
Just remember that in any communication with DVLA you are registering a 'Kit Converted Vehicle' that is retaining the original unmodified chassis (do NOT mention replacement floors) and two + original major components.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYgKn1dY/Screenshot-20230815-075448.png) (https://postimg.cc/k2BRccT0)
Thanks for the replies, I am retaining the chassis, suspension, axles, gearbox, steering and brakes, well over the points threshold for keeping the original registration. V5C is not back yet, watch this space....
V5C is back with the new engine size and number. They haven't returned the receipt for the engine so I'm glad I kept a copy. It took 15 days which is pretty good seeing as it's snail mail both ways.
That's good news.
Colour change next then?
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTR7qpMx/029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXzXKdHB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0zQLDzs/030.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hQhXHrwL)
Back end taking shape. Rebuilt the brakes with new shoes and wheel cylinders, new gearbox mounts too. I'm hoping with everything being black underneath it will disappear, or at least not stand out, once the buggy is finished. The axle boots will go on once there is some weight on the rear, the axles shafts are too tight to the gearbox forks to get the boots on easily. Spring plates are down (or should that be raised?) one inner spline only for now, but I can't imagine that will be the end of it... Shocks will be ordered later once the ride height is set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjpF9Lkg/034.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzz3nd43)
(https://i.postimg.cc/htBBRtbk/033.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhXKMjy8)
Front end in place, new ball joints, track rods and ends, brake shoes and wheel cylinders, steering damper.
Smart. Hope you can get some momentum and get this finished before the Indian summer ends !
(https://i.postimg.cc/SstrBHG3/036.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgwwY92B)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mkzwBVXD/038.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2LYvxdfR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/668J8XF7/039.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jWkrZ41)
Rolling on some gash old wheels for now, only a few jobs to do before it's a proper rolling chassis. Engine before and after. Shell is still at least another week away.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxTM564N/041.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hQfZQBGF)
Built up to a full rolling chassis, ride height set, new shocks, brakes completely rebuilt with new hard lines, flexis, master cylinder and shoes, gear rod bush replaced, I was beginning to run out of jobs when....
(https://i.postimg.cc/br66kZf1/043.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wqk6Pb34)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvRfCvys/045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvJ1QwHy)
Thanks to Rob at East Coast Buggies, very happy with the shell. In case anyone is wondering, the shell will fit in the back of the lwb Peugeot Boxer van, but only just..
Looking good keep the updates coming
Mines one of the original James Hale GT's built 1998. They are a wide buggy at the back and anything smaller than 10 inch wide look lost. Also, when you fit the tank use supports for it as it'll sag the fibreglass down and it'll hit the steering box when full.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXkyjyGz/296857500-10221804353399265-5820008297601416626-n.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks Buggy Baron, good advice there.
The front body supports don't need to be anything fancy, just two Z shaped bits of steel strip from the threads in the top of the axle beam to the body at the front of the tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwB55YKn/Screenshot-20231030-084628.png) (https://postimg.cc/DJdwthdz)
Once the shell is fixed I'm looking at fabricating three support sections, front of the tank, steering column and the rear section from the old body mounts or top of the rear shocks. V5C was sent off the other day for colour and body change, along with the V627/1 form and a few photos, one showing the unaltered wheelbase measurement. All the supports will be fabricated to mount at the existing mounting points so the chassis remains as standard.
Any signs of the V5C coming back yet? :-\ :-\ :-\
I know we have moved on but I do like your air filters ;-)up
Looking good! Nice to see where we will be with ours soon we hope? We are getting ours from Rob at east Coast buggies too... nearly ready. Great advice for the supports for fuel tank etc, thanks for posting.
Time for an update, V5C was back after about 7 weeks, they must have been happy with the submission as without any further contact or clarification it came back with Make: VW Beach Buggy, Body type: Convertible and the colour changed to red. All my changes are now done including the new engine to 1776 cc.
Ride height has finally been sorted, I had to fit dropped spindles on the front beam as the adjusters were at full drop and the nose was still about an inch high. The buggy is very unlikely to see any serious off road use, my main concern was getting the ride height at the back at a point where the back wheels were as near to upright as possible, there is slight negative camber but that's fine, the front then had to come down to level it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3RhJt2SG/99.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QB63tKrN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1Qc76N5/98.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67PmgrXZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QM0nz3Sq/97.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3SK31G3)
Wheels are 10x15 with 295 50 15 tyres on the back and 6x15 with 205 50 15 on the front.
Now I'm tackling the driving position, seats are in but I'm not certain they will stay there. The stock seat runners have been removed and the runners that came with the seats are bolted straight to the floor with 50mm heavy washers underneath. First impressions are the seats are very low compared to the stock beetle. The seat squab is about level with the top of the tunnel. I've looked at pictures online and it seems there are a lot of buggies like that, it's not an issue with the pedals, but it might be once I've mocked up the steering column and wheel. It would be an easy job to fabricate a 50mm square box section frame to raise the seats a bit if I need to, but I'm thinking lower is better for the go-kart arse inches off the ground driving experience I'm after.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9z5ZWLcf/100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3jkjXgq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0QvSz1R/101.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLbpNjXr)
Smart work.
Worthy of use by Santa...
Looks lovely! Can I ask where you got your seats from please? ;-)up
Thanks Nicki, seats are from BB Classics, they have an EBay shop. About £400 the pair complete with the runners.
Thanks Dougie I will have a look. 👍😜
Merry Christmas ;D
I can't believe how long it is since I updated this thread. Quite a bit of progress on the buggy.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNJPJBWk/053.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bpdtmxZ)
Seats are now set in properly. I used a heavy 50 x 25 mm box section between the runners and the floor. That allowed me to get them straight and square without worrying about the shape of the floor itself. there's enough elbow room for two lard-arses (we tried it) with plenty of backward/forward movement.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6629BSvS/052.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXwkD9tb)
Steering column was mocked up so the support could be fabricated from 40 x 20 mm box section and 40 x 3 flat bar.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMhx5F4S/054.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBQDfc6x)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k447RMgN/055.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06LTLsmr)
I chose to run the flat bar down to the main floorpan to add strength and a good earth for any electricals later, but again I might change my mind if I can't get a better paint match or find some other way of making the legs less obvious.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sx1wJ6Hs/056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xXHsZzfD)
I'm happy with the driving position, the seats are slightly lower than the stock beetle but the steering wheel is the stock height, the difference isn't vast as as I'm a nudge over 6' tall I can still see over the bonnet.
Next issue was the fuel tank. I had two beetle tanks, the one from the donor '72 with the filler on the rear right corner, the second was a pre '67 tank with the filler on the front left corner. This would have been under the bonnet on the original beetle. Long story short, I couldn't make either fit. I was unhappy at the amount of battering the later tank took underneath to clear the steering gear and both had too much height at the front edge to allow the bonnet to sit flat.
The thought of putting a tank at the back was just too scary to think about and the small fuel cells I'd seen online were 250 quid and held 3 gallons.
Then I found this on ebay...
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTcbPgpH/057.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwyBYtD8)
It's a brand new fuel tank for a petrol or diesel generator, it holds 7 gallons (allegedly) and even when the frame is in place to clear the steering gear, the bonnet will sit in place properly. It was £62 delivered. I've got a bit of work to do to it yet, the sender unit will go where the main filler is now, the filler will be moved to the top and the outlet to the front left but I'm hoping I should be able to have a good 6 gallons of usable capacity.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NwFbXwG/058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHmpjhgJ)
Quote from: Dougie on March 06, 2024, 10:06:19 AM
Next issue was the fuel tank. I had two beetle tanks, the one from the donor '72 with the filler on the rear right corner, the second was a pre '67 tank with the filler on the front left corner. This would have been under the bonnet on the original beetle. Long story short, I couldn't make either fit. I was unhappy at the amount of battering the later tank took underneath to clear the steering gear and both had too much height at the front edge to allow the bonnet to sit flat.
The thought of putting a tank at the back was just too scary to think about and the small fuel cells I'd seen online were 250 quid and held 3 gallons.
Then I found this on ebay...
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTcbPgpH/057.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwyBYtD8)
It's a brand new fuel tank for a petrol or diesel generator, it holds 7 gallons (allegedly) and even when the frame is in place to clear the steering gear, the bonnet will sit in place properly. It was £62 delivered. I've got a bit of work to do to it yet, the sender unit will go where the main filler is now, the filler will be moved to the top and the outlet to the front left but I'm hoping I should be able to have a good 6 gallons of usable capacity.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NwFbXwG/058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHmpjhgJ)
Great idea with the tank , do you have a link for it ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155620946329?itmmeta=01HR9WEV4XPP33KWDSZ8QEMCJJ&hash=item243bbb3199:g:ecUAAOSwa3dkkqYv
Moving the filler to the left front you may get spillage on right turns I would be tempted to just raise the filler so it is close to bonnet and fit a filler cap cover or bonnet level with a nice cap as centre has no surge problems then fit a sender to the flat area. A Being a flat tank can you raise the front closer to the bonnet to get max filling and help underside clearance.
Quote from: Dougie on March 06, 2024, 12:41:51 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155620946329?itmmeta=01HR9WEV4XPP33KWDSZ8QEMCJJ&hash=item243bbb3199:g:ecUAAOSwa3dkkqYv
Thanks , cheers Jon ;-)up
Quote from: snoopy on March 06, 2024, 02:54:14 PM
Moving the filler to the left front you may get spillage on right turns I would be tempted to just raise the filler so it is close to bonnet and fit a filler cap cover or bonnet level with a nice cap as centre has no surge problems then fit a sender to the flat area. A Being a flat tank can you raise the front closer to the bonnet to get max filling and help underside clearance.
The filler will be the usual arrangement of an aero cap fitted into the upper half of the bonnet in the centre, it's the outlet that will be at the bottom left to avoid the steering box and lead to the hard fuel line in the tunnel.
Jon.... might be pointing out the obvious but be sure to earth tank to chassis. ;-)up
Good point, the tank will earth through the support frame mounted on the front beam.
Just noticed that the tank is actually 7 U.S. gallons which is nearer 6 U.K. gallons , what sort of capacity does the modified( i.e. bashed in a bit ) standard tank hold ?
I have read online that some buggy owners have about 5 gallons of usable capacity as the angle of the tank doesn't help with matters.
I thought I was hoping some that the new tank was actually 7 gallons as it is clearly smaller than the beetle tanks (which I think are 8?)
Needed specific data for iva so accurate measurement of my modified beetle tank as fitted to my Manx is exactly...... 2 litres from true empty tank to level where fuel becomes available at tank exit. Then additional 28 litres to "full" level (which leaves suitable tank air space). (The tank loses no fuel whatsoever no matter how hard it is driven around corners etc).
Due to the tank shape being modified,(bashed), and lying at a slight slope I managed to achieve a accurate fuel gauge reading throughout empty to full range by using a "Spyda" gauge matcher. I cannot recommend this little device enough... really is brilliant. (Full details on my build thread).
If you use a standard VW speedo/fuel gauge note the needle is not damped in any way so it does wobble a bit when buggy is on road. Nothing to worry about tho`.... Quite old school to be honest ;-)up ;-)up
Just looked at the Spyda website and the newest version, mk5, has
Adjustable Anti-Slosh (responds slowly to input changes )
So not quite as old school any more
There is an oddity with regard to the original VW fuel gauge which I thought would prevent it`s use with a "gauge matcher" but I was wrong. The gauge uses the bi metal principle whereby as the bimetal section heats up as voltage is applied the bending moves the gauge needle. Briefly... the gauge matcher was my first delve into a this type of electronics. For love nor money I cannot remember the name of the principle of this function.... really worrying memory hiccups now.... however the electronics fool the gauge, which is an analogue principle device, into responding to the digital spyda as an analogue signal. Important to remember that the fuel gauge operates on a 10v principle and it is the "vibrator" that converts the 12v to 10v. If by chance you connect up the fuel gauge to 12v you will see within the gauge a puff of smoke and the needle falls off it`s hinge ;D ;D
+1 on the Spyder gizmo. Use the mk4 on mine and it's as accurate as it can be and no slosh movement. When i eventually convert mine to rack and pinion i'll swap it out for the newer version so i can stick a meter on the sender without the front end on and make it a lot easier.
At last the petrol tank is sorted. I've no confidence that the sender will give an accurate reading, but as long as it gives me an idea I'm not going to worry too much.
I've probably over-engineered the tank support, but the tank is in so firmly I can push the buggy backwards and forwards just on the tank. Plenty of clearance for the steering gear underneath without resorting to a big hammer.
I made up some 'wonky T' brackets, the bottom edge goes against the main bolts holding the front axle with the short ends bolted through to the old body mounts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJRGhmMw/20240902-085702.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwhSn8S5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwsV1j3c/20240902-090445.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yDqCBm7r)
25 x3 mm angle section across the front...
(https://i.postimg.cc/3N9PcMVR/20240902-091240.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnwgD1s0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z53hJQyf/20240902-091251.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFXzb0m5)
And finally, the tank in place,
(https://i.postimg.cc/4NjQzLFR/20240902-100002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnBPSTpx)
Spend £50 on a Spyda "Gauge Matcher" and you will have a fully reliable, fully accurate fuel gauge reading no matter what the shape or size of your fuel tank. All details on my build thread.
Dougie, have you test fitted the bonnet with the tank and new supports fitted?
Just a bit concerned thet lifting the tank might cause clearance issues on the front corners of the tank/bonnet.
Quote from: Buggybaggy on September 03, 2024, 12:21:17 PM
Dougie, have you test fitted the bonnet with the tank and new supports fitted?
Just a bit concerned thet lifting the tank might cause clearance issues on the front corners of the tank/bonnet.
At every stage I test fitted the bonnet. It fits fine with plenty of clearance.
Early tanks do not have the ridged front and are what buggies were designed for but we all use post 66 tanks these days
(https://i.postimg.cc/pV5qSDxR/20240930-093430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCKHwnLF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J0CJvHcz/20241031-110556.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpKP8xRg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pr1vyzG2/20241031-110822.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QK5wy9ZP)
Getting somewhere now, fuel lines replaced front to back, lights fitted and wiring completed. I built the loom from scratch , wire by wire, as too much of a beetle loom would have gone in the bin. Everything works with brand new wire and connectors so hopefully no problems in the pipeline.
The bonnet is now fixed in place using M6 x 30 self tapping hex head bolts. I'll put some normal bolts at the dashboard end once I've worked where the windscreen fixings will be exactly.
Looking great especially the rear end tyres and engine.
Just in time for Christmas and a few Santa runs out !
More progress....bonnet and everything that attaches to it, windscreen, wipers, washers etc are all sorted. Wipers are stainless Mini items using an adapter bush. This is a regular mod on Split Screen vans as the Mini parts have a much stronger spring than the VW. I also had to shorten and bend the arms to fit the 12" screen.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPxQ3SCg/20241205-102745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yk1NDz4r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHkhLsY6/20241205-102611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpZY6nSk)
Always good to see progress being made ;-)up
Looks like i'll be joining you!! Bought another and getting Rob to mould me an original GT front end. Old body is half off as got to try and save electrics fr the buyer and the build will commence.
Can i ask what you used or how you cut the speedo hole?
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Quote from: Dougie on December 05, 2024, 11:02:22 AM
More progress....bonnet and everything that attaches to it, windscreen, wipers, washers etc are all sorted. Wipers are stainless Mini items using an adapter bush. This is a regular mod on Split Screen vans as the Mini parts have a much stronger spring than the VW. I also had to shorten and bend the arms to fit the 12" screen.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPxQ3SCg/20241205-102745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yk1NDz4r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHkhLsY6/20241205-102611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpZY6nSk)
Looking good. A couple of questions for you before i get going on my build. What did you use to cut the dash and rear light holes please?
Also, just noticed you've put the screen on backwards to some as the groove sits forwards to attach a roof too.
I've got a 4 3/8mm / 110mm hole saw for speedo holes if you need to borrow it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sD2N7pT0/20250202-094724.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WP1HD5g)
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Holes for the rear lights and speedo were cut with a 110mm hole saw. It wasn't that expensive from ebay. Luckily they were the same size. The windscreen is that way round because I thought the smooth side looked better on the outside and I have no intention of fitting a hood. Having looked online at images of buggies it seems about a 50/50 split on which way round it's meant to fit anyway.
Roll hoop is now finished. The main hoop was bent up using 38mm tube to my spec by a firm called Tube-bender, another ebay find. They also supplied the bracing tubes with the notches cut. It cost £200 including the delivery. I had to drill and tap for the seat belt mounts.
Neat, if you need a hood simmonds hoods have left me 3 stainless bars to sell that allow you to clip the hood to a reverse screen frame using the manx clamps.
Quote from: Manxdavid on February 10, 2025, 11:11:01 PM
I've got a 4 3/8mm / 110mm hole saw for speedo holes if you need to borrow it.
Thanks David, I also have one plus a 135mm for the rear lights i just wondered if Dougie used one or hand saw and filed them out.
Hole saw did a really neat job, even the cheap ebay one seemed to cope easily with the fibreglass body without tearing at the edges.
Yep, done my rear lights fine the other day. Next question for you is regarding steering column.
Did you have to cut a slot in the dash to allow the column up to go where you wanted it?
The steering wheel is at about the same height it was in the full bodied beetle, I did have to cut a slot in the dash.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXL8R9d1/20250327-114352.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dCWzsNm)
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All done apart from the rear seat, insured through Flux for £87 for the year, 12 months free tax and 12 months mot. 20 months ago it was a rotten unloved beetle.
Looking tidy and ready to burn some rubber.
Well done.
Quote from: Dougie on April 08, 2025, 02:43:55 PM(https://i.postimg.cc/kXL8R9d1/20250327-114352.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dCWzsNm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L519rc05/20250327-114418.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kR7PSpCP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgJYBMyZ/20250327-114401.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FftrRGYN)
All done apart from the rear seat, insured through Flux for £87 for the year, 12 months free tax and 12 months mot. 20 months ago it was a rotten unloved beetle.
Mines basically ready to go once the wiring is finished, booked for may 2nd then i can bolt it all up and should be done. Yours is looking good, i need some wiper arms and blades and wondering what size you used?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Zn0q74D9/9233-B6-EC-C8-CF-409-D-A184-0-A632-A06184-D.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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