Well, here it is in all it's gory, my 1968 Kyote. It is confirmed as a Kyote because there's a plate inside the bonnet space.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4884/31222848527_aa024cf370_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pz4g5B)
Kyote Buggy (https://flic.kr/p/Pz4g5B) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/46162368961_97480921a1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dkdd28)
1968 Beach Buggy (https://flic.kr/p/2dkdd28) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4834/46111477052_0956255988_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dfHnCq)
Low Profile (https://flic.kr/p/2dfHnCq) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
Now, I have a fair few questions; would you like them all on this thread or dribbled out one by one on different threads?
But, first and foremost are the LingLong L688 tyres. I have read that they are lethal in the wet :o
I can't afford new wheels + tyres for some time yet so I thought I'd take a look at just tyres (255 / 35R20), and I can get Royal Performance which have a reasonable wet rating for £62 a wheel. I'm not going to be racing the buggy so will they do on what is left of my budget?
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4867/45438858584_e9c1d1e439_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ceh2Ah)
Plate 01 (https://flic.kr/p/2ceh2Ah) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Great to see Hugh II.
How about a 'money shot' ie the rear/engine ?
I like the style similarities to my MantaRay.
It looks iridescent green on the sides or is that just a fancy paint job or the strange daylight where you live ?
Speaking out of turn - as taste and personal preferences are almost sacrosanct on this forum - I'd say whether the tyres grip in the wet or not they look too skinny, especially on the back.
Look forward to seeing it out and about - maybe even a shot of it on a nearby industrial estate ?!
Yeah it has silly wheels doesn't it?
And yes, it's that shimmering paint that changes colour in sunlight. With the paint in such bad and crazed condition she may turn red in the spring ;)
Engine photos... (can someone identify please, I know it's a 1600 twin Webber but that's about all)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4823/45250451845_bfa6c9b734_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bWCoQe)
Engine 01 (https://flic.kr/p/2bWCoQe) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4849/46163133301_6ef587f1e4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dkh8ep)
Engine 02 (https://flic.kr/p/2dkh8ep) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4844/45438892104_e47f025abf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cehcyd)
Engine 03 (https://flic.kr/p/2cehcyd) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4918/46112038492_0d22e36aa4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dfLfwq)
Engine 04 (https://flic.kr/p/2dfLfwq) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Very pretty buggy Hewtoo ;-)up
Yes looks good Hugh one thing I've noticed and unsure whether you know but you need a cover to cover the fan belt etc can pick a new one for under £20
Look forward to meeting you out on the road somewhere 8)
Thank you, she's a lovely shape.
Fan belt cover already on order √
Now, about these tyres, does anybody know if LingLong are a bad make as I've been reading? and what about 'Royal Performance' I mentioned above as replacements?
I really don't want to be changing the wheels until the spring or summer, so as long as they're safe I can plod along for a while.
Also, tyre pressures - the LingLong website quotes them at 290 kpa which is 42 psi ???. I think no more than 30 psi myself but what do others think?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4905/32291265068_8e74f49e87_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Rctb6s)
Tyre 01 (https://flic.kr/p/Rctb6s) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/31223398947_fbd13f3bbf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pz75GB)
Tyre 02 (https://flic.kr/p/Pz75GB) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Happy times with a new buggy, tyre pressures are 20 psi max in the rear and about 15 in the front with 70 profiles tyres but I would go a fraction higher with those low profiles.
What ever you do the the ride will be hard with those fitted.
I run 22psi (275/60) on the rear, 18psi(185/60) on the front.
Is it a legal requirement to have a fan belt cover :-\
Paul
Quote from: snoopy on December 03, 2018, 08:42:25 PM
Happy times with a new buggy, tyre pressures are 20 psi max in the rear and about 15 in the front with 70 profiles tyres but I would go a fraction higher with those low profiles.
What ever you do the the ride will be hard with those fitted.
Thank you, I'll try 25 and 20 maybe and see how that feels. I went out this morning to try and get a locking fuel cap, and the front felt a bit bouncy. However I forgot to check the pressures so I've no idea what they are at the moment.
Last two photos - the dash, and one of the speedo cable sticking out of the front wheel.
I checked it today using a drill, and the speedo works if I can work out how to connect it up. I have the hub piece with the square hole that it attaches to but need to find a way of sticking it onto the wheel. I know it won't be accurate with the oversize wheels but at least the odometer will click over.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4916/44345927990_6c36e66a77_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ayGtpm)
Cabin (https://flic.kr/p/2ayGtpm) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4884/46112122202_3f984af0d1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dfLFpG)
Speedo Cable (https://flic.kr/p/2dfLFpG) by Hugh Russell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127872701@N08/), on Flickr
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
The bouncy front is probably due to the coil over shockers, they may have been fitted to raise the front to clear those huge wheels so it may not be a simple case of swapping them for standard ones, possibly no quick fix there until you decide on the final wheel and tyre sizes.
The engine started out as a 1600 twin port unit but there'd be no way of telling how big it is without removing a cylinder head and measuring the bore and stroke. Its probably a 1600 or possibly 1641 though.
You can not tell much about an engine from the outside. But one thing I noticed was bad staining on the right hand carb! this could be 2 different issues. This could be either the butterfly spindles are badly worn, if it runs OK don't worry about it now. Secondly, it could be muck in the float needle valve, causing the carbs to flood or the carb float needle valve is worn so it is flooding. Fuel leaking over hot exhausts is not good, flooding carbs can also let fuel into the bottom end and thin the oil. ;-)up
Rob
OK thank you. Seems to run fine to my inexperienced ears, picks up quickly and accelerates well. I will keep an eye on the oil level in case it rises ;)
I was told by the seller that it's a 1600 twin Webber, but maintenance and other stuff I will be learning as I go.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Tyre pressure crude start point is deflate until the sidewall just starts to bulge.
the speedo drive cap goes onto the hub behind the wheel so needs the wheel off. there is an e clip goes onto the cable once it is through the cap.
Quote from: snoopy on December 03, 2018, 11:26:17 PM
the speedo drive cap goes onto the hub behind the wheel so needs the wheel off. there is an e clip goes onto the cable once it is through the cap.
Unfortunately the cable is pushed out too far through the hub, and I can't get the drive cap to reach and locate in said hub when connected to the cable end. If that makes sense 8)
I'm working on another solution ;)
Tyre pressures adjusted - fronts were way too high, rears too low. Bouncing a little less now at 20psi front and 25psi rear. I even had the bottle to take her up to 60 today :D
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Just pull the cable through from the otherside, it should have 1 of these on the inner side to keep it in place and stop water tracking down the cable into the hub and back up into the speedo.
On a very wet journey back from IBW a couple of us had speedos reading in Knots there was so much water in them.
https://www.vwheritage.com/111957855b-speedometer-cable-seal-through-wheel-hub-vw-spare
Quote from: Flags on December 04, 2018, 05:12:48 PM
Just pull the cable through from the otherside, it should have 1 of these on the inner side to keep it in place and stop water tracking down the cable into the hub and back up into the speedo.
On a very wet journey back from IBW a couple of us had speedos reading in Knots there was so much water in them.
https://www.vwheritage.com/111957855b-speedometer-cable-seal-through-wheel-hub-vw-spare
Thanks, I'll have a look tomorrow √
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Ooh, Christmas smileys :D
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Thanks Flags and Snoopy, speedo is now working and odo clicking over woohoo ;D
It was actually the cable seal gromit that was holding the cable stiffly in place.
However as expected the speedo is fairly inaccurate against my GPS, and in fact is reading too low.
At an indicated 30 I was doing 33, indicated 36 I was doing 40, and indicated 45 I was travelling at 50mph by GPS.
Something like that anyway ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Good news there then and the over size tyres do make the speedo slow so good to know how far it is out so you can drive on the shown speed and not get a ticket.
Thank you yes, but I had somehow calculated the speedo would be reading too high.
I'm keeping my GPS speedo for the time being.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
I'm going to put some white paint marks around the speedo at correct 30, 40, 50 and 60mph points.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
There is a point to remember when trying to establish markings on any beetle speedo, or other mechanical version, and if you are using GPS as a guide. GPS generically reads 3 to 4mph low. (This due the signaling delay). The most accurate way I have found to check for error is by driving steadily behind another car and have a passenger maintain contact to let you know when you are doing 30 etc.
The GPS lag is why a gps system cannot be fitted by manufacturers from new nor is it acceptable to iva examiners. ;) ;)
Thanks for that, good point.
I've been trying to maintain each test speed for a while to overcome GPS lag but there's a 40mph flashing sign a few miles away to me that I can test my speed on and maybe adjust my findings as necessary. It goes off at 41-42 mph on all my other vehicles.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Production car speedometers display a faster speed than actual speed same as their outside temperature reads slightly colder to avoid litigation as my car said it was safe. You just need a near e ough figure the paint dots will be fine at the right angle but will show different from the passenger side but you could reposition the needle on it's shaft to give a accurate reading mid range at 40 mph.
I printed a dial outer on a laminate slide and stuck that on. Worked ok. Now have right size wheels on the front with GPS as a backup
Strangely seeing all the other comments both our car's Speedos read low compared to roadside Signs and both our GPS units , both GPS read exactly what roadside signs say We see an occasional roadside sign that is 1mph different but that is just the switchover point.
74 on my Qashqai is 70 on GPS, 33=30 etc.
Quote from: Doon L001 on December 18, 2018, 12:08:03 PM
I printed a dial outer on a laminate slide and stuck that on. Worked ok. Now have right size wheels on the front with GPS as a backup
Strangely seeing all the other comments both our car's Speedos read low compared to roadside Signs and both our GPS units , both GPS read exactly what roadside signs say We see an occasional roadside sign that is 1mph different but that is just the switchover point.
74 on my Qashqai is 70 on GPS, 33=30 etc.
They are keeping you safe from speeding tickets travelling at an indicated 70 (GPS 67) those are about the same figures for the tiguan so fixed cameras and average speed sections are passed through on the GPS speeds not speedo ones and still safe.
They will not allow GPS only because of tunnels and signal black spots in very tall built up areas
Understand that Snoops, just that previous posts suggest GPS read low which would make my car so way out as my GPS is always bang on the roadside indicators and lower than my car says
My take on this is that so long as you have a good signal, GPS is the most accurate. Lag will only come in if you are constantly changing speed or going through an area shielded from the satellites.
Apparently also if you are going uphill GPS may read slower because you are not making so much progress across the planet as you would be on the flat.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
A digital speedo where you measure the rolling circumference of a tyre and program revs per mile in is accurate but speeds up slowly as the tyre wears. Speed indication is not a problem unless the 1mph over the limit cameras come in to make money out of motorists.
New rear seat fitted - it's actually a golf buggy bench seat that fits perfectly in the limited space at the back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WhpZHjGX/IMG-0124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhpZHjGX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5Wgrkjm/IMG-0125.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5Wgrkjm)
The downside is that the cushion is so thick a seated person can hit their head on the roll bar, so I've ordered some padding for it.
Next up, fit the lap belts; I have strong points ready for attachment ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Lap belts are regarded as about as useful and dangerous as a chocolate teapot.
If you can get lap and diagonal or harness (mounted properly ) that's the way to go
That's a great idea, but the only place I have for the upper point on a diagonal belt is on the roll bar. Is that permissible?
My primary reason for fitting a lap belt is to attach the dog to on her harness so we can all go out together, but she has a strap that clips into the seat belt buckle so it would still work if I could use a diagonal belt.
The seats are so small I wouldn't normally consider carrying passengers.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
If it's just for the dog then just get buckles. You aren't IVAing and vehicle date almost certainly means you don't need rear belts
Find a breakers and get one there
I have a solid mount one (Pug I think) on the tunnel for if she has the front seat and one on a short strap (transit I think) in the back
Already have new lap belts here, so like you say I may only use the buckle part.
Since it was brought up though, I still wonder if I could perhaps use a static lap and diagonal belt if I had a captive nut welded to the top corners of the roll bar?
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
If the rollbar is sturdy maybe better than nowt
Just try to get angles as near right as possible. Above and behind the shoulder.
Is the rollbar a simple hoop or does it have bracing bars. Worth a bar below the seat rather than just bolts through the fibreglass.
Don't forget belts are mot test items so if fitted ensure they will comply,
Yes, the roll bar is braced about a foot from the bottom (see my photos above).
I think my best bet would be to fit the just buckle part for the dog and then seek professional help. I realise it will cost but as you say it needs to be right.
Thanks for all your help :)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
I've decided to leave the rear belts for a while as I'm not convinced the strong points I'd chosen are good enough. Might need some proper ones welded at some point.
All the law requires is that animals are properly restrained, so I reckon our doggy will be just as safe wearing her harness and being tied off to the roll bar at the bottom where it's braced.
She might be terrified by the loud exhaust anyway so we might not get very far ;)
New 13" steering wheel on.
Floor inside the car cleaned up - removed various leaves, stones and dirt. The floor seems in good nick though ;-)up
Discovered a 3/4" hole in the deck in each side, just the right place to shoot rain water from the road up onto your lap. Found some rubber bungs in my bits box and sealed them off.
The rear bench seat is fine, but the cushion is so thick and high you can bang your head on the roll bar, so some thick padding bought from a sports car shop and cable tied in place.
Some shorter wiper blades bought as the current ones sweep across the windscreen rubber at the bottom, but it turns out they'll need some fettling to fit the current arms.
Lastly I've stuck some VW metal style logos onto the wheel hub covers in an effort to improve the look of the wheels ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Personalising the buggy has started and you will find things like the holes that some are happy to live with, even the little improvements give a feeling of satisfaction and pride of ownership. ;-)up
Yes you're right, I'm titivating now ;-)up , but I'll need to settle down and do some maintenance soon.
The engine oil is black and probably needs changing - what grade is recommended - 20/50, 10/40 or what? Mineral or semi-synth?
Also, while I'm on it, does the gearbox oil ever need changing or just topping up, with what?
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I want this car to keep running as well as it can for a long time ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Ref the above, I've been on the VW Heritage site and found what I need.
Oil + gasket kit on order √
That site is a veritable mine of information; maybe you'll get a few less silly questions now ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
I use 20/50 mineral do not go semi or full synthetic as it does not transfer heat as well apparently or a straight 30 will do.
Gear box oil is worth changing a straright EP90 old school oil with no additives, your may be dark brown and very smelly if it has not been changed for deceades.
See you got sorted but I have typed it out.
You may want to buy a new oil strainer in case the old one's in bad shape.
I got the Morris SAE 30 plus a gasket kit, but I will certainly add a new strainer to the list √
I also bought a litre of SAE 80/90 gear oil (plus 17mm hex key) for topping up, but if the oil is too old I can go back and do a complete change.
Thanks for all the help ;-)up
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
You will realise why the holes were in the floor when it rains
Quote from: HughBug on December 29, 2018, 09:52:30 PM
Sorry to ask so many questions,
Never be afraid to ask questions on here - the site thrives on it ;-)up
Quote from: Doon L001 on December 30, 2018, 08:48:11 AM
You will realise why the holes were in the floor when it rains
Oh, sh*t :D
Cheers :)
Hugh
Those holes in the floor are useful in that they let water out but they are remarkably draughty. I have fitted sink drains but they are beggars to fit as they are chamfered so you need to hammer out a plate, cut a large hole and weld that in.
Much simpler are one way drain rubbers, I think the recommended ones are Landover but they're in loads of cars draining heater vents etc and probably available in boat chandlers as I have seen them in dinghy's.
I have 1 in each footwell and 1 under each seat at the lowest point
111801177 is the vw part number for these I think.
Hugh the 2nd if you want drain holes the seat wells are the best places, and to find the lowest point pour some water in and check the depth, holes up front only cause draughts and water ingress. However an inch of water slopping around inside a buggy whilst driving does help move the dirt around and wash the highest parts of the pan.
Shaggy's land rover drains are a neat design.
Snoopy is right about drains at the front unless you have the car raked forward in which case they are useful to stop wet heels. Thats why I use sink drains, they have plugs in to stop draughts but still let water out
Luckily I have thick metallic rubber mats on the floor which will stop direct ingress onto our legs, so I might as well just remove my bungs for now until I get proper drainage in ;-)up
I really do appreciate all the help - thanks :)
New 7" wiper blades have been fettled on and now the screen cleans perfectly. There was a bit of spline changing for the arms and bending them to make good contact with the glass but I'm pleased with the result.
Went for a spin - the 13" steering wheel is much better for me.
Roads were damp and greasy so I did a couple of emergency stops with no issues - stopped well and in a straight line.
Also the tyres seem to grip fine in these conditions, even hurling round a roundabout at speed didn't cause any dramas, except the smell of petrol when it shook itself out of the fuel cap :o
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Well, I've finally straightened up the speedo which was sitting decidedly wonky, and investigated as to why the full beam lamp wasn't working. New bulb holder on order.
I've done a test touch up of one of the chips in the paintwork; the chameleon flip paint is weird but will have to do for now. It turns out the original colour of the body was light blue, and whoever did the repaint just blew it over the top with no primer. No wonder it's crazed everywhere ;)
I fancy a pillar box red when the time comes, but it'll have to be a pro job as my spraying is rubbish.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
The rubber drain bungs from Land Rover were posted up by Shaggy a while ago. The part number is AYB500080
Quote from: Roadrunner on January 02, 2019, 10:17:38 AM
The rubber drain bungs from Land Rover were posted up by Shaggy a while ago. The part number is AYB500080
Thanks ;-)up
However, my holes are only ¾" (2cm) whereas the Land Rover ones are 3cm diameter.
Looks like these might fit - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caravan-Sink-Basin-Angle-Waste-Plug-20mm-3-4-Caravan-Motorhome-Camper/232474392067?hash=item36208db603:g:IP8AAOSwhxBZqvCL:rk:1:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caravan-Sink-Basin-Angle-Waste-Plug-20mm-3-4-Caravan-Motorhome-Camper/232474392067?hash=item36208db603:g:IP8AAOSwhxBZqvCL:rk:1:pf:0) with only a minimum opening up of the hole, plus I can angle the waste pipe astern √
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
A simple 2cm blanking grommet with a cross cut in the middle would work and no comedy bathroom fittings would be needed?
Doh, that's what I have in the holes now! So all I need to do is cut a cross in them.
Thank you, problem sorted :D
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
No worries, gravity does the work for you, just poke a finger through them if they get gummed up.
I finally got fed up with the heavy metal concert roar from my cannons, and bought a 'quiet' exhaust from MegaBug, who are actually only about 15 miles away from us.
Old exhaust...
(https://i.postimg.cc/vxYG6LPX/IMG-0132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vxYG6LPX)
New exhaust...
(https://i.postimg.cc/jWY0742N/IMG-0136.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWY0742N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DJzCJSrL/IMG-0137.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJzCJSrL)
Actually it's a good job MegaBug are so close because one of the J tubes supplied didn't fit into the main pipe - it's diameter was too large.
So I had to take it back, verify it wasn't just me being a dick, and get replacements. Lovely folks, very helpful and friendly, and they even gave me some bolts to join the silencer on, plus a jubilee clip which I needed to support the silencer to the pipework.
It's really much much quieter, but still with a nice sporty sound ;-)up
I'll be putting the cannons up for sale soon as they are still in very good condition.
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
Welcome to the "quiet club"... ;-)up ;-)up
Thank you Paul ;-)up
Now I can better hear what the engine is doing.
New front harnesses fitted as the old ones were dirty and rusty...
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kr9x09F/IMG-0144.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kr9x09F)
My cheapskate way of getting a lockable glove compartment into the passenger side - it's a small wall safe...
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vr4nTKPy/IMG-0142.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Vr4nTKPy)
It went so well I bought some larger safes and mounted them in the bonnet compartment. These will be a secure way to carry some tools in the car...
(https://i.postimg.cc/HV1dRd3g/IMG-0140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HV1dRd3g)
Cheers :)
Hugh the 2nd
using safes is a thinking outside of the box idea but works folks will think you have some serious valuables in there.
bonnet wise you could fit hinges and a slam catch with a release cable under the dash or even a key lock with a blade that engages into the body.
Quote from: snoopy on January 13, 2019, 04:47:46 PM
using safes is a thinking outside of the box idea but works folks will think you have some serious valuables in there.
bonnet wise you could fit hinges and a slam catch with a release cable under the dash or even a key lock with a blade that engages into the body.
Yeah, I get your point, but it's way down in the foot well so someone would have to look hard to see it. Hopefully it will be of more use to us than someone else ;)
Cheers :)
Hugh