After 30 yrs of waiting I bought myself a Beach Buggy this week. All good on the reasonable length test drive but first time out (owner delivered it for me on low loader), after about 30 minutes of driving, it got harder to engage gear. Similar tonight but after 15 minutes.
Car fine when moving as could change by matching engine speeds but refused to engage once stopped. If you pushed it towards first gear the car would move on the synchromesh but not engage gear and clutch felt dead as if not disengaging.
Also goes into gear fine when engine off.
Had a look underneath and it looks like the cables slightly broken (some of the wire broken but not all) and it was slack against the clutch arm when engaged.
Started doing it up (was easy to do) but struggled to get at it enough to make progress with car on the road so ended up towing it home.
Is it likely to just be a poorly adjusted/part broken cable? Or is there anything else I need to look for?
The odd bit is that it was OK initially tonight then went, which is how a hydraulic clutch goes when it starts leaking (gradual deterioration) but then went dead like when my Escort clutch cables used to snap?
Just wary that I'm kidding myself it's an easy fix?
For info - Buggy has replacement 1914cc engine fitted, assuming it's original 1500cc gearbox/clutch
I'm learning fast!
Looks like my clutch cable has the Empi shortener on it, causing exactly the problem this image from another thread shows.
[img]http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1243068.jpg/img]
So, second question, if it is the cable, what's the best solution? New cable and loop?
(http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1243068.jpg)
Hi and welcome. Pretty sure you problem is adjustment. You can get the cables professionally shortened by someone like Speedy cables, or as you say loop a standard length one. Mine is . Alternatively have a look on Peters site, there's a discretion how to make an adjustment piece.
Sure a big lad will be along soon ;-)up
The clutch cables are a bit of a pain to replace. And those Empi shortening kits cut into the cable as you have found out. looking at your photo, your return spring has broken as well. With your tuned up engine, I would imagine that they had to put an uprated clutch pressure plate in there to stop the clutch from slipping. So it will need a good clutch cable making up
Rob
Quote from: farmer rob on October 06, 2017, 09:39:48 PM
The clutch cables are a bit of a pain to replace. And those Empi shortening kits cut into the cable as you have found out. looking at your photo, your return spring has broken as well. With your tuned up engine, I would imagine that they had to put an uprated clutch pressure plate in there to stop the clutch from slipping. So it will need a good clutch cable making up
Rob
Thanks, the photos's not mine, but I realised mine's got the same Empi shortener and has started breaking up (i've got a nice hole in my finger where a broken piece of wire went right in). Will see if I can get a cable made up - anyone know what the length needs to be (12 in shorter due to chassis chop?)
I used a loop with two cable clamps on it. Not fancy , but cheap and has never come loose.
Welcome to buggy club :)
Empi type shorteners are best avoided it is at best a very poor design, as said a loop in the cable and 2 rope clamps is an easy fix and reliable. Clutch cable front end fitting is a pain and needs the pedal mountings and guides removed to get into the tunnel to hook the new cable on. There have been 2 changed in recent years out on the roads ta,es about an hour and much choice language.
I also have the two clamps as others have said
(http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pics/Junk/Buggy/2015120.jpg)
Welcome to the Site!
I'm not too far from you, down in Leighton Buzzard. ;-)up (theres a few of us buggers around here too)
And currently have exactly the same issue too! Cold, its OK, starts to get warm even after a very short trip and all gears very hard to select, finally manage to force it into gear. once in gear its running fine, when moving, it can change gears OK'ish if you match speeds etc.
Though your cable is a bit of a mess, I doubt its that directly - My cable is fine,I use the clamp method, Dave DND shows above. I would add I did play with the Bowden tube recently and that may now have too much of a curve on it??
Other typical causes could be lack of oil in the box, though I topped mine up and still showing same issues.
Sadly I can't give you an answer at present as I haven't fixed it yet. Only because this winter, the body is coming off to replace the floor pans and other jobs so not taken the engine out until I do that as I might as well wait.
So could be the Bowden tube (may be?) but likely the issues with the clutch and release bearing itself. So pop the engine out and you will see. Fingers crossed its that. OK it may possibly be the gear box itself but hopefully not.
I've done 25,000 miles on this clutch just over 3 years so its not a high mileage but I do launch it a lot and with big wheels, thats not going to be very healthy.
Quote from: AndyRobinson on October 07, 2017, 10:54:29 AM
Welcome to the Site!
And currently have exactly the same issue too! Cold, its OK, starts to get warm even after a very short trip and all gears very hard to select, finally manage to force it into gear. once in gear its running fine, when moving, it can change gears OK'ish if you match speeds etc.
Hi, This sounds worryingly familiar :'(
This sounds like it could be the problem - http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/may2.htm
The other fault than can cause warm gear selection problems is the spigot bearing failing in the flywheel nut as it can grip the input shaft dragging it around when the clutch is depressed instead of free wheeling in the bearing.
I have the same issue too, as anyone who went to IBW this year will testify. Getting 1st on the way there with all the stop starting got more or less impossible, and 2nd started to go the same way. I've not actually made any attempt to sort it yet though. ??? By the time I got home there were more pressing issues to resolve. :D
one thing to add also is to check that any of the connections between the gearbox/shift rod are tight and not loose. Causing the partial movement of the shift between gears. More so when moving the shifter from side to side. And check the shifter bolts x2 are tight as well. I had your exact problems but with my diagnosis thoughts.
However your cable looks pretty poo poo. So start with that and work your way round it all.
Everything is easy to fix in a buggy and all accessible. Just time, patience and a cup of tea