Do you still get a full set of body mount brackets etc with Euro Manx kits like you used to with US and the first batch of UK kits or would Mark prefer you to buy his?

One of the things that disappointed me with regard to the overall cost of the Manx kit was the additional costs. The quoted figure on the website for the body is for the tub & bonnet\dashboard assembly only. You need to buy, separately, tub to chassis bolts etc. If you buy side pods, (an additional £300), you need to pay extra for bottom mounting brackets that secure to the underside of the floor pan. The two front body mounts that help support the area where the fuel tank sits are extra. (These are stainless steel items). If I were to do it again I think I would source my own parts or make my own where possible. The savings would add up. Oh nearly forgot -  you also get  a "makers" plate stating it is genuine along with the serial number, (essential for IVA). A front and rear plastic Manx badges plus as many free cups of tea or coffee you want.

You don't 'need' body and sidepod mounting kits or body brackets. Stock VW channel washers under the floorpan edge with M8x30 stainless button heads c/w penny washers from a local supplier or eBay do nicely for the body plus the same bolts for the sidepods; two front, two rear.

Front and rear mounts are easily bent up out of flat stock. Steering mount is an easy make too.



Here's the parts kit that was supplied with Meyers Manx Signiture kits in the late 90s. I've got a full set if you want to borrow any to replicate.

A very interesting build thread as for DVLA they no longer use DVSA since VOSA and The DSA were amalgamated into the one body.
The DVSA trainer we had said he had no idea what the future held for communication and collaboration between them.

Oh and keep up the good work

You don't 'need' body and sidepod mounting kits or body brackets. Stock VW channel washers under the floorpan edge with M8x30 stainless button heads c/w penny washers from a local supplier or eBay do nicely for the body plus the same bolts for the sidepods; two front, two rear.

Front and rear mounts are easily bent up out of flat stock. Steering mount is an easy make too.



Here's the parts kit that was supplied with Meyers Manx Signiture kits in the late 90s. I've got a full set if you want to borrow any to replicate.

David...  Really good of you to offer the loan. Wish I had known you had these.  When I visited Flatlands, and in view of the distance from home, and having decided to place an order I thought I might as well get other stuff also. Bought the supports, bought a steering column support also as this is IVA essential and quite a number of other parts. I will take a photograph of the steering column support as it looks a bit more complex than the one in your photo. (This may or may not be designed differently for UK iva) Usually I have tried to make as many parts as I could in the past due to lack of funds and stuff. I was very unsure of what I would need. There is a moral to all this.. I think....
Anyone out there who chances by my postings listen up because here is another reason why I should have had the body really early on in the build. With the body at hand you will know what you need by way of fixings and stuff and what you can make up yourself.

I must say that I think that stinks! Meyers Manx has always been know for its fully comprehensive kits. To be charged extra for body mounts etc is very poor show. When Mel was doing them you got the lot all in the sticker price.

I got my body, bonnet/dash, screen frame, roll bar, body mount brackets, badges and id plate off Mel for £1100 back in 1999. A free year's membership for the Manx Club too.

I've never dealt with Flatlands, they've never had anything that I couldn't make or get elsewhere for less $$$. I've got nothing against them, just never needed them.

Thanks David....  Forgot that bit. You are 100% correct... the tank needs a bit of walloping for clearance. I also forgot to state that the buggy must be taken for IVA check with a full tank of petrol and the fuel gauge must work reasonably accurately. (You can, if you have better eyesight than I now have, and a steady hand adjust the beetle fuel gauge).

Hi PAul,

Really enjoying reading about your detailed build thread.

In terms of the fuel gauge accuracy I recently used one of these to marry up a generic fuel gauge with a beetle sender on a Doon I was wiring up for someone and it worked amazingly well.

https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/vehicle-electronics/fuel-gauge-electronics/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

In fact this would work for any buggies having issues fuel gauges (read 99% buggies out there).

It is very simple and relies on the sender ohm input and positioning the gauge to match. It does come with a small adjustable resistor to set the input ohms. What I found however was that it didn't take into account the resistance on the wires going from the sender to the gauge.

So I simply set the tank in the buggy and filled it to the top (with water) until it could be seen at the filler neck (or at the sender hole depending on the angle of the tank). I filled it with a 5 litre jug so I could count how many litres until the tank was full - 32 litres on the Doon for info. I then took the pipe off the bottom of the tank and drained it. I then calculated how much fuel (water) was left 'below' the outlet pipe due to the tank angle as this would represent a zero on the gauge. Again for info this was about 2 litres on a doon.

I then simply put the sender in place and put in 2 litres until just coming out of outlet. I then set the gauge at zero using the relevant buttons on the gauge wizard. I then put in 7.5 litres and set the gauge to 1/4, 15 litres and set gauge to 1/2 etc all the way up to full.

This basically made the gauge 99.9% accurate and was checked during shake down of the build by running out of fuel - which did read zero on the gauge

I hope that makes sense and the gauge wizard is well worth the £40 in my opinion.

Chad

And a cup of tea too I imagine!

I got my body, bonnet/dash, screen frame, roll bar, body mount brackets, badges and id plate off Mel for £1100 back in 1999. A free year's membership for the Manx Club too.

I've never dealt with Flatlands, they've never had anything that I couldn't make or get elsewhere for less $$$. I've got nothing against them, just never needed them.

Hi Dave... I understand 100%.  I also agree with you regarding make it yourself if you can. My problem is I work full time, have two grandkids that just about live with us, and time just rushes by. I retire a year come February. Maybe I should have left starting this build until then. Take a look at what is being asked for a tub and bonnet assembly now. A great deal more than £1100. Here is another item obtained from Flatlands. This is the steering column support specifically engineered for IVA compliance. (The long bar that stretches from the offside to nearside is not in the photo). The additional support is required. IVA asks for two "shear bolts" which are available from the usual. This is in addition to collapsible section of the shaft itself. This of course could be home made.

Thanks David....  Forgot that bit. You are 100% correct... the tank needs a bit of walloping for clearance. I also forgot to state that the buggy must be taken for IVA check with a full tank of petrol and the fuel gauge must work reasonably accurately. (You can, if you have better eyesight than I now have, and a steady hand adjust the beetle fuel gauge).

Hi PAul,

Really enjoying reading about your detailed build thread.

In terms of the fuel gauge accuracy I recently used one of these to marry up a generic fuel gauge with a beetle sender on a Doon I was wiring up for someone and it worked amazingly well.

https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/vehicle-electronics/fuel-gauge-electronics/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

In fact this would work for any buggies having issues fuel gauges (read 99% buggies out there).

It is very simple and relies on the sender ohm input and positioning the gauge to match. It does come with a small adjustable resistor to set the input ohms. What I found however was that it didn't take into account the resistance on the wires going from the sender to the gauge.

So I simply set the tank in the buggy and filled it to the top (with water) until it could be seen at the filler neck (or at the sender hole depending on the angle of the tank). I filled it with a 5 litre jug so I could count how many litres until the tank was full - 32 litres on the Doon for info. I then took the pipe off the bottom of the tank and drained it. I then calculated how much fuel (water) was left 'below' the outlet pipe due to the tank angle as this would represent a zero on the gauge. Again for info this was about 2 litres on a doon.

I then simply put the sender in place and put in 2 litres until just coming out of outlet. I then set the gauge at zero using the relevant buttons on the gauge wizard. I then put in 7.5 litres and set the gauge to 1/4, 15 litres and set gauge to 1/2 etc all the way up to full.

This basically made the gauge 99.9% accurate and was checked during shake down of the build by running out of fuel - which did read zero on the gauge

I hope that makes sense and the gauge wizard is well worth the £40 in my opinion.

Chad

Hello Chad.  Brill` and thank you, Do follow you on this and that`s what I need. I have not yet checked the sender. Is the "pot" a lin or log version? I will be wiring this buggy up from scratch. Again IVA comes into play in a big way. No heavy currents to switching etc. Relays are going to be a must I guess. I hope you can advise along the way. 

 
Another IVA issue..  (This one has varying solutions depending upon which station carries out the inspection).
VIN number... The chassis originated from South Africa and did not have a VIN number stamped on the tunnel top.
I went to the trouble of cutting out a section, stamping in the correct VIN number, and welding back in the cut out bit. (see photo).
Two different stations have differing views on what is needed.
IVA requires a "17 digit vin number stamped on the right side of the vehicle". This can be stamped directly to the existing metal or you can weld in a plate. If welding involved it must be a continuous weld around the full perimeter of the plate. Here`s a weird thing. You can chose any 17 digits you like. My guy suggested "beachbuggy2016etc etc" Think I am going to use correct digits as I am not sure what DVLA would make of this.
Station 1.....  The existing vin number must be cut out but kept for reference with existing V5 details. Must be kept safe for future.
Station 2..... My "local" place. Examiner advised that as long as I bring the completed vehicle with the existing vin number covered up so that it could not be seen then this would be acceptable.

I've not opened one recently, should I open a fresh one? 

I've not opened one recently, should I open a fresh one? 

[/font]   Dave...    Time will tell.. Suspect DVLA will have the final say on this. Hope to have a definitive answer at the end of the story..  I have tried not to overthink this particular point. 

I was under the impression that the numbers are "assigned" to you from the powers that be, and it is my understanding that you are not permitted to simply "pick your own"

This is to prevent 2 vehicles having the same chassis number, else how do you make sure that you have not stolen the chassis identity from someone elses car ?




PS - you are correct that there are very strict rules about "How" the vin number is displayed, how it is welded on etc etc, but beleive me, the rules for "what" number is actually displayed are even more strict

I was under the impression that the numbers are "assigned" to you from the powers that be, and it is my understanding that you are not permitted to simply "pick your own"

This is to prevent 2 vehicles having the same chassis number, else how do you make sure that you have not stolen the chassis identity from someone elses car ?




PS - you are correct that there are very strict rules about "How" the vin number is displayed, how it is welded on etc etc, but beleive me, the rules for "what" number is actually displayed are even more strict

Dave, trying to be careful just how much I put into print here until I can be certain in my own case and can state facts from experience. The first mention of picking your own numbers came from an individual who had put several through IVA successfully. The second mention, following my own doubts, was from a query from myself to my local VOSA tech who confirmed this. I did speak several times to DVLA directly but they were not forthcoming with a direct response. Is there anybody on the forum with first hand knowledge as to what process they went through?