One of the seat runners angled at 6 degree to horizontal.

I think the reason this master cylinder isn't quite what you wanted, is because its designed
to be fitted to a left hand drive Beetle!

Peter 

Peter... You are 100% correct.. My extreme annoyance was with the supplier and myself for being so gullible...

I need two independent brake circuits along with two independent 3 pin brake light switches. I came to realize that all the aftermarket right hand drive cylinders that have photo`s showing two brake light switch ports don`t. The photo`s are just generic in origin.

Got past that and after talking to one of the repo` parts suppliers they said they thought that one of the German left hand drive cylinders would fit. Just needed brake line tweaks. They said they didn`t have one in stock but would order one and when it arrived take a look and confirm it had all the ports and that it would fit a rhd K&L chassis.
Thought... well nothing to lose.

It arrived and they phoned me saying yes 2 switch ports and will fit my chassis. I said.. are you sure... yes they said. I said are you absolutely sure... yes they said. Like an idiot paid the money and it arrived. This was 6 months ago and just got around to trying to fit it.

It may not be obvious when looking at the photo but even with both switches removed it is too long to line up axially with the mounting. Even if it did there would be no room
for the offside forward port to have a brake line connector fitted.  The angle on the frame head section is duplicated on the near side so it would not go on that side either. I suspect it is a 1303 item. 

paul

Should have said near side port

Couldn't you fit a standard brake line t-piece in line with one of the front brake lines or rear brakes line and fit a second switch in the t-piece.?

Then you could just use a new RHD master cylinder with a single switch.


Originally did this on mine when using twin adjustable brake cylinders



Or do both switches need to be on the master cylinder?

Chad

Chromo!

Chromo!

Cheeky.   

Couldn't you fit a standard brake line t-piece in line with one of the front brake lines or rear brakes line and fit a second switch in the t-piece.?

Then you could just use a new RHD master cylinder with a single switch.


Originally did this on mine when using twin adjustable brake cylinders

Good lord Chad....  Yes....   Why on earth did I not see this solution ? 

Here is why you shouldn't over tighten any of your fixings. This is an extreme example as the fixing has a limit peg to let you know when it is correctly tight but someone has gone past this 

The end result of this was a stripped case thread which I will now have to attend to. This is the distributor clamp.  (Torque wrenches are a good thing. Just remember the non-pro mechanical ones are not precise but are a good guide. Torque with clean dry threads only).

Yeah good post Paul. I have a decent 1/2 sq drive one but am looking for a 1/4 one as well. Any suggestions?

Yeah good post Paul. I have a decent 1/2 sq drive one but am looking for a 1/4 one as well. Any suggestions?

Hi Mike..  1\4" torque wrench readily available from £30 to £200 plus for a pro` one...

I would suggest a £30 one from the like of Machine Mart etc.....  If you want to go a little better £50 is the next step up.  Next up about £80 but this is something that you would have if you were using it daily.   

Like most fixings, if there are four or more nuts\bolts, tighten up diagonally opposite ones - increasing torque in stages where you can. Things like cylinder heads re-visit after about 500 miles of use and check torque again.

Cheers Paul

Lining up the first king pin bush



In it goes



File the two slots in it for the cup piece

Other end... spacer often shears off when dismantling. Drills out with ease. Cut drill bit shaft down to size and tap in. Chamfer exposed end a little. (Think it`s 2m\mm dia)

Last job before firing up the engine....  Repair to the stripped 8mm stud that the distributor clamp locates to. (Not a loaded item so havn`t used a helicoil... opted for a 10 to 8mm stepped stud).

Before removing distributor for access... ensure number 1 cylinder is at top dead centre. Easy enough to do as long as you remove the rocker cover on the engine. Rotate the engine slowly watching the valves on cylinder 1. To your right, and at the front, when looking from pulley end. When the two valves start to "rock", and number two cylinder valves remain still you have number one cylinder up at top dead centre. (With spark plug out and something like a screwdriver down the hole you will feel the piston rising and when it is at the top... a little practice helps here).
Take the distributor cap off and look at the rotor. It should be pointing across to roughly 2 o`clock position, in line with the little notch on the distributor rim on an distributor with a vacuum can on the body. There is another type of distributor without a can and the notch is on the other side. (Doesn1t really matter as long as you have the rotor pointing to the cap lead that goes to number 1 cylinder. Take a look at the photo at the little notch on the pulley... this lines up with the split in between the crank case halves when number 1 cylinder is at top dead centre. (Careful as it lines up with number 3 cylinder at tdc too, remember to check with the valves).

I removed the distributor to give access with a drill.... Important.... Do not rotate the engine with the distributor removed... If you do you may have issues with the distributor drive section. Take a look at the photo.  Shows the notch on the crankshaft pulley for tdc. (The yellow mark to the left is just the marking to allow me to use a timing light for final alignment). The photo also shoes the distributor drive down in its hole. The drive has a large and a small segment. With the drive in the correct position the smaller segment is nearest to you. Also check that you still have a spring down at the bottom in the centre of the drive.

Ok... to my issue... See the stripped casing hole drilled out to take a 10mm tap....  Put a blob of grease on the drill bit to grab the drilling swarf. Also put a blob on the taps. When tapped clean out the hole and threads thoroughly with a quick drying solvent to remove all traces of grease. Make sure any left over flakes are removed. Degrease the stepped stud. When casing threads and stud are thoroughly dry add a bit of Loctite and fit the stud. Leave overnight before tightening a nut in place.

Replacement stud in place