[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

What I meant was shaggy, where I have hit it on the corner, it will push it down and away slightly from the mounting face on the on the other case half.

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Slowly but surely, its coming back to life. Case is the most filthy grimey thing ive ever had to clean but i am getting there. I took it to the local filling station today as they have a jetwash carwash with a view to pressure washing it but with all the weeks of freezing weather we've had,it was frozen and out of action........8-) Hotsoapy water and plenty of elbow grease it is then....



Electrolytic cleaning is going very well. All 6 barrels looking like new now. Bought a big plastic dustin today to scale things up. Crank now busy getting cleaned! Pistons and rods are being separated next week. The pistons are getting replaced which ever route i go with this rebuild so just going to have the wrist pins pressed out cold as im not overly fussed about the piston damage that can occur.

case looks a lot better. to get the gudgeon pins out just drop the pistons in boiling water for a few mins and they will push out by hand.

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Snoopy, not as easy with the corvair stuff.

They are a floating wrost pin design. Flat in the piston but an interferance fit in the rod. Ideally, you are supposed to head the hots to get them out. You can press them out cold but it knackered the wrist pins. No big deal really as its having new pistons (the std GM ones crack) and they come with a new set of pins....

if you do not have a press use a length of threaded bar through the pin and a tube to fit the pin one side and a tube/socket the pin will go into the other, then using locked nuts the large tube end screw a nut down the small tube end to push that in and the pin out into the larger tube.
would be easy to show but harder to explain than i thought.

They are a floating wrost pin design. Flat in the piston but an interferance fit in the rod. Ideally, you are supposed to head the hots to get them out....

Haven't been drinking by any chance Ben.... 

The wrist pins are an interference fit in the rod's.... If you press them out I would check the size and surface of the rod small end too...

I spect it will be fine but still worth checking that it hasnt been scored or torn in the process....

Peter

Snoopy, not as easy with the corvair stuff.

They are a floating wrost pin design. Flat in the piston but an interferance fit in the rod. Ideally, you are supposed to head the hots to get them out.

God Moaning Ben... ...

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Yes, I know....

Fat fingers and a little capacitive touchscreen keyboard was never going to end well.....

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Well, two days in the electrolysis tank and the crank now looks like a crank...



Just need to get it measured up now, see where the journals are at and I can think about getting some bearings....

Thinking about having it polished and then running some 0.002 oversize bearings. Can get these and they are over half the price of the std ones oddly....

Any more info on the electrolysis tank? I use an ultra sonic cleaner for small parts (carbs etc) and an old dish washer for bigger items, but the latter isn't strong enough for really dirty stuff/oil channels etc.

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Baz,

Yes bud. Its quite simple really.

Get a container large enough for all the bits you will want to clean (I've just 'upgraded' to a large plastic black Dustin!!)

Fill with water and then add washing soda at a dilution of about 10% (1kg of it for every 10l of water). This makes up your electrolyte solution. Next, get a scrap piece of steel and connect it to the +ve lead on a car battery charger. Take the piece you want cleaning, and connect it to the -ve terminal of the charger and put it in the tank.

I make sure at least one of the connections is out of the water. On mine, I've suspended the piece if scrap steel so the top is sticking out of the water. Once ready, turn on the power and leave for 48 hours. It will bubble away as it removes the rust. All the rust moves onto the scrap steel. Once done, lift out and clean with a brush. For the cylinders,iI used a wire brush, for the crank, a softer nylon bristle brush.

The only thing to remember is it removes rust best in 'line of sight' between the part you want cleaning and the steel. Things like cranks and cylinders you need to turn every now and again to get the best results.

You don't need to change the electrolyte ever either.

That's a thorough explanation, cheers Ben, I'm going to try that out. Now I just need to find a vessel big enough! 

a cold water tank is good too

I've just remembered I have a spare copper boiler tank from our old central heating system, that'll be big enough for wheels, ideal! 

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Baz, not sure it works with metallic tanks? Having said that, a steel tank would be brilliant. Suspend the rusty bit in the middle, the tank would make the best cathode ( or is it anode?!) ever. Not sure it would work with copper though