I've got to the stage where I'm fitting the shell to the chassis, gasket ordered but I wondered what size nuts & bolts to use and if anyone could recommend where to buy them from too?

Any other tips welcomed, thanks for your help,

Neil

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

Assume it's got std floorpans?

Heritage do most of the bits. You will need a number of the chassis bolt washers....
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/beetle/body-floor-accessories/body-fittings-floorpan-chassis/

Flatlands also do a body fitting kit which is all stainless hardware. Comes with a gasket though. £65

http://www.flatlandsengineering.co.uk/fle/parts/fle_BK37.jpg

Or you could sort it yourself. Think I used a load of the pan washers and some stainless M8 or M10 (can't remember) cap head bolts and nuts.

As said m8 diameter bolts preferably stainless but standard 8.8 strength steel will do.  if you fit a roll bar or cage that will ideally need  8.8 or 10.9 steel bolts to secure it

Thanks for your help Ben, yes standard floorpans albeit now shortened, VW Heritage looks favourite, cheers

Assume it's got std floorpans?

Heritage do most of the bits. You will need a number of the chassis bolt washers....
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/beetle/body-floor-accessories/body-fittings-floorpan-chassis/

Flatlands also do a body fitting kit which is all stainless hardware. Comes with a gasket though. £65

http://www.flatlandsengineering.co.uk/fle/parts/fle_BK37.jpg

Or you could sort it yourself. Think I used a load of the pan washers and some stainless M8 or M10 (can't remember) cap head bolts and nuts.

Thanks Snoopy, yup a roll cage is on the list, so I'll bear that in mind too, cheers

As said m8 diameter bolts preferably stainless but standard 8.8 strength steel will do.  if you fit a roll bar or cage that will ideally need  8.8 or 10.9 steel bolts to secure it

Personal preference but I would use stainless fasteners for the body to shell. It means that the bolts should never seize up and if/when you need to take the top off again it should be a lot easier. No more horrible bolts made of rust and mud.

If you get a box section cut to fit inside the channel you can then drill through from the inside lip and tap the box section for M8.

Even if the pan is already painted and you don't weld them in it will add a lot of rigidity to the pan preventing rattles and body flex.

Thanks Flags, I was lucky enough to get Craig "Fatbloke" Kemp shorten my chassis and he put box section in as standard so the pan's good and rigid.

As you say my plan is to drill through the box section then up through the pre-drilled holes then through the body... well that's the plan 

If you get a box section cut to fit inside the channel you can then drill through from the inside lip and tap the box section for M8.

Even if the pan is already painted and you don't weld them in it will add a lot of rigidity to the pan preventing rattles and body flex.

Don't buy the Flatlands or any other pan washers then as they wont fit due to the box section.
If chalk mark where the holes in the pan are on the inside then drop the shell on, felt tip on the body lip where the chalk marks are you can drill from the inside through the lip to mark the box section.  Then body off drill through the first layer of the box and tap it.  Big penny washer on the lip and no fittings on show underneath.
Much easier than it sounds.

Cheers Flags, I think that makes sense... appreciate your help

Do you have to use the proper pan washers to hold the body on?

[6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king]

If you are running std floorpans, then yes, I would. They were designed for it. I used stainless Allen head bolts with stainless washers under them and the proper pan washers on the underside

Ok cheers, hopefully get some stainless ones made up then