Exactly that !!

My filler neck is towards the rear of the tank, and fairly easy to get at - but really depends on how "flexible" you are

So is mine, so hopefully i can reach round the back of the dash...although i have the flexibility of a lump of wood 

cheers

thats a clever setup there with the fuel fuller.

My old wiper mech often made some funny noises, and it was clear that it needed a major refurb - but what I hadn`t envisaged were the price of the spindles and bearings - it soon mounted up. 

Unbelieveably, cheaper to buy a new rack from Heritage than repair mine.



Motor swapped over and bolted up into place

And I achieved another major milestone today, and managed to finally bolt in the seats that I have been tripping over for the last twelve months.

Looks like you're ready to go!? 

Looks like you're ready to go!? 

Its so damn close, 99% of the little niggles are nearly fixed - and just when I think its potentially possible, I remember why it came off the road this time last year, and remember that I haven`t changed the engine yet. 


Still waiting on a few bits to arrive before I can start it up properly though - even on the old engine.

Some of you have asked how I attatch my screen to the roll cage, so I thought this might answer some of the questions and maybe inspire a different way of doing it.

I use a pair of these rubbers, which I think are possibly brake pads from a push bike - not entirely certain, but I had some kicking around the garage for some reason.



And these are pressed into a couple of holes at the top of my roll bar to give the screen something to rest against. I know it probably doesn`t need the exra support, but I figured that the screen is nothing more than a bent shower curtain rail, and could do with all the help it gets.



My roll cage has a couple of big plates welded to it, the top/front ones are for the screen and the lower/rear ones are for my dash.



Either side of my bonnet are the holes for the spacers



And this is the clever bit - note the position of the nut.



The bolts (with nut wound to the end) pass through the metal mounting plate on the roll cage, through the spacer, and screw into the steel bar, but making sure the bolt remains slightly recessed on the end.



The frame is then slid over the metal bar, and once in place, the bolt is held in place whilst the nut is wound downwards, clamping the window frame against the sides of the spacer. I did it this way, because if you use bolts that are too long, you can very easily damage the frame if they are wound out too far, as the bolts will try to go through the frame and mark it.



Remember that little rubber block at the start? Here you can see the top of the window resting against it.



And from a sideways view, you can see how I made sure that the uppermost part of the window frame was higher than the roll bar. This was important to ensure that the roof looks good when pulled tight, and that the outline of the roll cage is not visable when the roof is on.



Screen on, wipers installed and I even found the box with the headlights in.

Really enjoying this Dave.

Looks very good indeed. Love the Cappo seats.

Ruth actually had one of the 1100 UK spec none import cappo's in red.

Was an absolute scream to drive . turbo'ed 647cc rear wheel drive.

Point was the seats were comfy even on long runs.

Lets hope that engine works for you.

Chad

I thought I would make the most of a warm summer evening and managed to get the dash back in and wired up. The Fusion Marine speakers are no longer being used for the audio, but have instead been wired up in series to give an 8 Ohm impedance for use an external speakers for the CB. I`m not sure about the colour of them at the moment, marine stuff is traditionally white, but it kind of clashes too much. Need to find a better bracket for holding the mic to the dash though, as I don`t like those metal ones.



Also played around with the SWR readings on the CB, and managed 1.2:1 on Ch1 and 1.3:1 on Ch40. I`m pretty chuffed with those readings, and that isn`t bad considering my aerial is bolted to the rear cage. Shame there is nobody on the air around here for me to check out if it works or not though.

starting to look like a car now Dave !
thats lucky, as NEWS is coming up !!

A quick update on the CB Radio.

The NEWS weekend showed a problem with the CB radio that I had not envisaged - the default settings of my rig were "Euro" and not "UK" which meant I had to do a bit of reprogramming before I had anyone else to talk to - easy fix though.

Another easy fix was the Mic bracket I spoke of previously - I said I didn`t like the metal one, and in just 3 months it has started to go rusty, so I have searched about for something different. I came across some black plastic ones that are used for PMR and Taxi radios, and I think you will agree that they look much better.




Holds the Mic nicely too.

over the last few years ( I kid you not) I have been racking my brain what I could use for this as the top of my screen matches the height of my cage exactly

Nice to be back in the garage and working on the Buggy at last.

First up is to amend something that I got very wrong in my recent rebuild. I fitted a fuel breather valve from a bike and positioned it at the bottom of the A-Post, just behind the screen - and it is functioning exactly as intended. It has removed all the tank pressurising issues I had, and judging by the amount of fuel vapour coming out, it is not only doing its job, its working overtime.

And thats the problem I now have, as the vapour is now coming straight into the cabin, and driving with the roof on is somewhat overpowering with the smell of fuel. I have looked at a few different locations to mount the valve, but cannot find anything that is really suitable, so I thought I would pinch a bit of inspiration from Peter and use a windscreen washer jet as my fuel valve instead. The hole in the jet is small enough to allow air pressure to escape when at temperature, enough to prevent tank vaccuum as fuel empties, and the holes are too small to allow any water ingress. I quickly drilled a new jet into the bonnet and will try it out for a while, and if it works, then I`ll tidy it up a bit when the bonnet comes off a bit later to be reshaped and a better job made of it.

Nice to be back in the garage and working on the Buggy at last.

First up is to amend something that I got very wrong in my recent rebuild. I fitted a fuel breather valve from a bike and positioned it at the bottom of the A-Post, just behind the screen - and it is functioning exactly as intended. It has removed all the tank pressurising issues I had, and judging by the amount of fuel vapour coming out, it is not only doing its job, its working overtime.

And thats the problem I now have, as the vapour is now coming straight into the cabin, and driving with the roof on is somewhat overpowering with the smell of fuel. I have looked at a few different locations to mount the valve, but cannot find anything that is really suitable, so I thought I would pinch a bit of inspiration from Peter and use a windscreen washer jet as my fuel valve instead. The hole in the jet is small enough to allow air pressure to escape when at temperature, enough to prevent tank vaccuum as fuel empties, and the holes are too small to allow any water ingress. I quickly drilled a new jet into the bonnet and will try it out for a while, and if it works, then I`ll tidy it up a bit when the bonnet comes off a bit later to be reshaped and a better job made of it.

I have the same problem at the moment with the smell of fuel in the cab....not a good thing when you have passengers 
You`ve only fitted this recently but have you managed to test it as I may tag on to the pinching of inspiration 

Its a tried and tested method that I pinched from Peter -

Not done that many miles yet, but so far the difference it has made is very encouraging 

No more smelly fuel in the cabin