so I tied a bit of nylon fishing line to the end of the float arm, passed it through one of the screw holes,

Damn, wish I had thought of that when I was doing mine 

Quite pleased with that one

And I should hope so too, that's a neat idea and the setup using the
fishing line is brilliant.

Am watching all this unfold, its going well Dave 

Peter

Nifty 

I think that's one for the helps and tips section.

Great idea.. 

As previously mentioned, I am using a Filter King, and it has a built in fuel regulator to control the pressure to the carbs. This is done by undoing the locknut on the top and turning the nut underneath until the correct pressure is reached, and then locking them up again.




This is actually very easy to do with the help of an external fuel pressure gauge. Plumb it into the end of my fuel lines, switch the pump on and adjust the regulator until the desired pressure is achieved. I set mine to 4psi.




The fuel lines were connected back to the carb and then everything checked for leaks. Seems that my hesitation about aero style connectors may have been unfounded, as so far, every one of them appears to be leak free.

I know I am mid-build, and the current engine is also due to come out, but the temptation to hit the starter button was just too much.

And it lives 

The engine burst into life almost instantly, which is good to know, as the entire fuel system has now been changed and all seems to be ok.

Now to rummage the garage for some more bits to bolt back on.

Just replaced my little motorbike indicators on the front for LED ones. As I have the Angel Eye conversion on my headlights, I thought these little Vortex rings would look a little better.



I`ve used 6 ohm resistors to ensure correct flash rate, and 50W versions so they don`t burn the fibreglass like the 25W ones do - (still get quite hot though)

some neat upgrades there Dave.
I will have to do your sender mod after the new beetle sender failed just need some octopus arms to get access with the bonnet on.

Changed the other front tyre over today, so I now have brand new BFG`s all round

Hi Dave,

looks cool

Couple of questions for ya,

1. where did you get the resistors for the LED indicators - I have seen special LED flasher relays but not resistors to use with the standard relay?

2. I notice to cable tie everything (very neatly  ), any reason why you do this and not use spiral wrap or split conduit?

Cheers,

Paul.

[led resistors 50w]

Paul,

The cheapest place to get the resistors is definately ebay - type in "led resistors 50w" as a search and it should bring a few up - don`t go for the cheaper 25W ones though as they get too hot.

As far as the cable ties go, I guess because I deal with a lot of auto electrics as part of my job, I like to see things neat and tidy. I`m not personally a fan of the split conduit, as I find that they can fill up with water and crap a little too easily, and the spiral wrap always looks a little messy to me when different length bits are added and joined. I suppose nothing really wrong with either, just personal preference, and a cable tie can be chopped out and replaced very easily.

Besides, I have to use green cable ties now, just to keep some of this lot amused (mentioning no names, AndyR, BaggyBuggy etc etc )   

Thanks Dave, I was going to mention about the colour but thought best not - leave that to others 

Cheers,

Paul.

I know that putting a carpet in your Buggy is a little O.T.T. but I`m fed up with mine looking so knackered and sparse inside, and thought that this would be a great way to smarten it up a bit. Because I know full well that my Buggy is going to get soaked and full of water, I opted for some rott-proof and water resistant gel backed carpet that I picked up a while back at a Kit Car show for around £12 a roll.



I didn`t want to follow the conventional 11 piece VW Beetle carpet set design, and saw no reason why I could not make this out of a single sheet, a bit like the moulded carpet in a modern car. Using a profile gauge, I marked and cut out the gearshift and handbrake holes from the middle. This would be my starting point.



The theory is that you apply heat and shape the carpet accordingly, but if you try with a hot air gun like I did at first, you may just end up with a very singed and burnt carpet as a result. The second attempt involved a small steam cleaner, which had an assortment of different shaped heads and brush attatchments. The welding gloves proved very effective against burnt fingers.



It didn`t take long to start shaping the carpet over the tunnel, but as I was heating and stretching, I was very aware that the whole lot kept moving about.



So I anchored the carpet down using the seat belt stalks.



Working with a big sheet of carpet is quite daunting, and it does not always fold the way you want it too, so a little bit was cut off here and there as I went along, taking care not to cut too much at once.



Shaping the edges is actually quite easy, and 10 seconds or so with the steamer was enough to make the material quite pliable, and it could then be held or stretched into place for a few minutes whilst it cooled and retained its shape - gloves were essential for this bit. This is actually moulded around the fuel line that runs down the side of the tunnel.



After a while I got quite good and could get some very neat edges, trimming with a knife as I went along.



Probably took me a good half day to do this, and there are still a few creases and mishapen bits that I need to come back and address, but that should be fairly easy to do.



Yes, I know that I have covered over a few access panels for the pedals and the rear gear linkage, but remember that this carpet is not glued down, all I need to do is remove the seats and seat belt stalks and the whole thing lifts out in one piece.

Looking good

Can't wai to see the matching curtains and cushions

Joking aside, it does look good. 

Can't wai to see the matching curtains and cushions

I thoughts cushions were supposed to contrast and not match . . . .   

Curtains however? Hmm . . .  Side curtains . .  . .

Watch this space