Hi,,
I'm trying to get hold of some twin carbs for a. T1 1600cc engine.
Might anyone have anything for sale?
Thanks Si

Depends upon what you would be willing to pay. I have twin carbs but they are either new old stock or reconditioned so are not going for peanuts. A decent linkage is a must if you want them to balance air flow etc.

Hi Paul
I'm just building the engine it's my first buggy and just want a pair of carbs which will perform well but also look good cosmetically!
I've been told that twin 45 carbs run well on T11600CC engines. But I don't know whether Solex carbs would be any good or not.
It sounds like you're pretty clued up on this subject.
What kind of price would you be after?
Cheers, Simon

weber 34 ICT carbs are great on a 1600 with the bigger twin choke webers you will need 28mm venturi fitted for the air flow to work correctly, twin choke dellortos seem to have less problems than webers but you could fit anything  Solex Kadrons are common but can be a bit thirstier.

My 1600 tp runs great on twin 34ict Webers. The kit that I got from Eurocarb wasn't without issues though.

One carb was faulty straight out of the box, blocked transition circuit but they replaced it quickly. There was a fair bit of swarf in the float chambers that needed cleaning out and it needed slightly richer jetting, I guess buggies have freer flowing exhausts and air filters than the average camper van.

They really are the best carbs I've ever ran and I've had Kadrons, Dellorto 34frd's, dual progressive Webers and Nikkis in the past.

Had a rush yesterday with people contacting me and have let all my spare carbs go. I have a pair of twin Weber ICT`s on my buggy at the moment with CSP linkage. They work just fine. Have twin Kadrons on my spare engine and again these are brilliant and so simple to set up together. (Cobbled linkage on the Kadrons).
The twin Webers came from Eurocarb.
Top tip here.......  Whatever you end up with jump in "at the deep end", even with new ones, strip them down looking for loose metal particles etc and blow through the drillings. (I use generic carb jet and drill way brushes and probes. These are delicate and of course of tiny diameter but are so simple to use. On amazon ebay etc for a couple of quid).
Now then, you may find this hard to believe but it is a tip I got from Farmer Rob quite some time ago......  If you using older carbs, and many look manky but are fine to use, strip each carb to two halves each. Remove float and its spindle. Boil up some water in a pan and set water to simmer away. Put carb halves in pan for 30 mins minimum. This will clear all crap and unstick any one way valve system that has balls and so on. Eurocarb actually have the same advice. It has never failed me.
Another thing...... take great care using anything off e bay especially the myriad of so called reconditioned units. So much junk out there.
When I started my buggy build I removed the Solex Pict3 as it would not run the engine. Into the pan it went and engine started instantly and in minutes the carb set up spot on. I was concerned that the engine would need to pass the 1975 emissions test when going through IVA. (Later I learned that the 1st testing started in August so I was ok).
Anyway set the carb up. Took it to my local garage. Twin exhausts so each silencer was checked. I was staggered at the resulting print out figures Both sides way below the 1975 emission limits. That with a 50 year old carb .... amazing the Germans certainly knew "their engineering).   I have messaged you with a contact who, if you call him, I am sure will sort you out within your budget. Just don`t expect a quick ten minute phone call. He will talk all things VW air cooled for hours   

As others say ICTs are good once they're set up, however
When I got mine I gave them a clean then fitted them, setup instructions as supplied simply didn't work.
They were jetted to run far boolean, but even then I found them tricky

Ended up with 3 subtly different sets of set up instructions,  the original,  one from Internet and one from Snoopy.
None worked completely,  mainly around initial settings to get it running and then around final range for mixture screw, but once id got them adjusted they work really well.

Only problem ive had is idke jets fouling and as they're not handed one is eay other side is carb off. Crap in the carbs, how often do I have to do thst then  - Boom boom 

Mine are Spanish made but from the States and saved over £100, INSANE

Note well you new guys......   No two engines will react the same with twin carbs. Factory spec jetting is not a one for all. Setting up correctly is the way to go. The later sized emulsion tube is better than the original but I think it may be fair to say all new ones will have updated this now.

45's on a stock 1600 is pointless. twin 34's are more suited, dell 36's at best or a pair of the original solex 40's. I had a pair of P40's on a 1641 and it pulled very well

34ict Webers work brilliantly on Type 3 engines, manifolds and linkages are still available from Eurocarb etc, they also list full kits on eBay but are sometimes cheaper buying directly off their website.