when swapping  a left hand drive link pin front axle   to right hand drive     do i need to add  the stops for the steering box    no worried about relocating   the steering   damper      what have other people done   

 The box will clamp tight to the beam but I tend to put a tack weld or 2 clamp to tube so it cannot move, if you have a damper mount you can reposition to suit and lower down so the damper clears the fuel tank.

I would always fit a steering stop bracket, some don't but the steering box can be damaged if you don't.

If you can't salvage on off an old beam then Limebug sell a bolt-on one that would be easy enough to copy.

"Beetle / Ghia Bolt on Steering Stop for Ball Joint / Link Pin Beams - Limebug - Classic VW Parts" https://limebug.com/product/t1-beetle-ghia-bolt-on-steering-stop-for-ball-joint-link-pin-steering-box-beam-axle-black/?srsltid=AfmBOop1rnanbawgb31FR6hSoYjpeTz75JJ2vsJIPRIeMuuMJDtTk9Ch

Just a bit from my buggy build and past experience. There is a lot out there on the web of the need regarding steering stops and left to right hand change. Left to right hand is no issue. You just won`t have the tube mounting point nubs to show where the box goes. This is irrelevant on a buggy. The box simply locates at a point that matches the angle your steering shaft lies or vice versa if new build. Just ensure that the flexi shaft to box coupling is not in anyway twisted. That is to say out of axial alignment. VW fitted a stop when disc brakes were introduced in general but in reality they were to be found on many previous years. When building for IVA, and because I had to go from drum brakes to a disc set up, I tried numerous brackets, self made and the Limebug one, but even before IVA examination time I removed the Limebug bracket. It simply wasn`t needed. (Note the disc setup was "zero offset" version so the difference from Beetle set up was a mere 4mm). The examiner had no issue with the rotation of the box. Where it stopped at full lock left or right. Again I am speaking with regard to my buggy. I took great care to set up the steering rod action/reaction. I have run my buggy in anger across all terrain for three years now and have had no issue at all with the steering box. Not a drip of any kind from it.
Remember the steering damper, if fitted will need its locating point changed over for right hand alignment. A bracket is available from Limebug that clamps on if you do not want to weld to the tube.

So as I say it`s do-able. Not difficult. Buggy Pete made a point early in my build with regard to a critical point and he is right. The torque figure for beam to frame head bolts is quite a low figure. This must not be overdone. Have a go and put some pics/words on the forum.


 

I'd still rather trust a positive mechanical steering stop, either the standard one that VW fitted or aftermarket, over just letting the steering box run out of travel possibly causing internal damage to components or running the chance of letting the tyres scrub away at the sides of the body tub on full lock.

I'd still rather trust a positive mechanical steering stop, either the standard one that VW fitted or aftermarket, over just letting the steering box run out of travel possibly causing internal damage to components or running the chance of letting the tyres scrub away at the sides of the body tub on full lock.

If you're on full lock and hit a pothole that's a hell of a hammering on the internals

I'd still rather trust a positive mechanical steering stop, either the standard one that VW fitted or aftermarket, over just letting the steering box run out of travel possibly causing internal damage to components or running the chance of letting the tyres scrub away at the sides of the body tub on full lock.

If you're on full lock and hit a pothole that's a hell of a hammering on the internals

My sentiments entirely.

On other front end matters my pet hates, the 'red ring of death', and the rather rusty collapsible section both make an appearance in that photo, plus I always fit flat washers under track rod end nuts and would fit lock washers under the steering stop nuts and fit locking nuts on the exposed threads of the stop bolts.

King and link pin steering angle stops are the castings on the swivels as they have limited movement unlike ball joint hubs.

think people  have come back with info on the steering  stops    what i was asking   about is the 2   metal nubs  welded to the axle  is this really needed   on a buggy as i dont have access to a welder  and its near on impossible    to find anyone near  who could do this        only worry i have will the steering box move   across the axle without them

think people  have come back with info on the steering  stops    what i was asking   about is the 2   metal nubs  welded to the axle  is this really needed   on a buggy as i dont have access to a welder  and its near on impossible    to find anyone near  who could do this        only worry i have will the steering box move   across the axle without them

Steering box shouldn't move if properly clamped. If you're worried about it a jubilee clip either side will reassure you regarding horizontal movement.
Re rotation properly clamped and column absolutely straight into it will be fine

Drill and tap a hole where the clamp cut out is or drill and fit a short bulkhead screw.

If it helps to show how not to do it, my build thread may be worth a peek

https://www.beachbuggy.info/index.php/topic,20.msg153084.html#msg153084

Don`t overthink things.......  There are many, many front beams out there that never had anything on the outer surface of the tube. I have seen them from all years be it swing or ball joint variant.  I have an almost pristine beam that I have kept in case ever needed. This is an example of one such beam. Way back in my youth, and being able to visit the local VW main dealership & being invited into the workshop frequently, I was given this explanation. I can only repeat this as I have no way of confirming what I was told. The explanation I was given regarding the single or double little weld protrusions on the tube was simply that it gave the location for the steering box placement during factory assembly.

When lowering Beetles in the 80s and 90s those lugs usually got chiseled off so that the box could be turned slightly to lessen bump steer, they never came loose if tightened properly.

As Paul says they were only there to speed up assembly on the production line.