Cleaned the old pistons and springs as the replacements I bought are so called "performance " parts. The springs are much stronger.

In the process of reassembly now.

Slowly going back together, done some other work while it's in bits.

Improved the oil pickup from the extended sump.
Taken the bottom cover screws out a couple of turns as nuts only had a couple of turns before.
New oil and filter (again)
Refitted woodruff key and pulley went on nice and easy.

Going to do tappets, clean carbs and swap out dizzy cap and leads while it inbthe air and ive got the silencers dropped

Delighted it's resolving but sounds like there has been mission creep and summers here so get it back together very soon !

Delighted it's resolving but sounds like there has been mission creep and summers here so get it back together very soon !

Only jobs that needed doing, not taking it to bits twice if I don't need victory.
I get limited time to work on it when Lynn's at work

Taken the bottom cover screws out a couple of turns as nuts only had a couple of turns before.

If this refers to the studs that you secure the oil drain/mesh filter plate then it`s one thing that over the decades has driven me crazy. The number of times that I have been asked to "fix things" is beyond counting. So often the plate is put back on and secured with nyloc nuts. Next time the plate needs to come off the nyloc is grabbing tight to the stud and the stud unscrews, That`s it then...... one or more of the studs will simply just screw itself all the way back in even with a normal nut on. You cannot use loctite on the stud thread because it`s impossible to clean oil out of the threads.         As a quick fix I just lock a nut down the bit of stud extending inside the case. There is a permanent fix. Cannot recall what they are called technically but it`s a threaded stud with a diagonal slash along the thread length. This locks the stud in position exactly where you want it.. 

They do a saver stud 8mm one end and 6 the other so you drilll and tap the case from the 8mm.

Yes Paul, they're the studs.
Problem was I have an ali cover which is thicker than the original steel one, nice chrome domed nuts but they only went on about 3 turns but sort of OK as there's no real strain on them.

Studs wound out a bit and all bar one nice and tight, loctite will give it enough sticktion

Nuts on about 9 turns now so much happier.

Not enough thread on the inside if tge sump for a nut and they're already longer than standard studs

Yep...   The alloy finned sump cover with the temp sensor  needs a few extra thread turns to allow a nut and lock washer to fit properly. I keep some 6mm longer length studs cut from bolts handy to use. Also have a thin walled socket to get into the cover recesses to nip the nuts up.

Good news hopefully

Took both relief valves out again and fitted the so called performance set after giving the guides a good clean.
Started and oil pressure is stable at 40 psi so progress.

Do a test run over the weekend and see what happens when it warms up.

Had to fit this round gardening, building shelves and decorating so taken far too.long.

Those hex plugs Chris sent me are really good, thanks again. 

For info, you can get the valves out with the extended sump fitted and can get the pulley end back in.
Flywheel end is another issue as you can't get a straight line to start the thread against the spring pressure.
Ive got some alien keys without ends, which got it out, but not enough room to hold it straight and rounded end too grippy with tge soring pressure.
In the end I cramped 2 nuts onto a 10mm head bolt and put a ratchet ring spanner on it, that let me get it started

Thanks for all the advice on this
. Dave

Just drove out of the garage pressure all over the place.
Before I take tge engine out I'll take the gauge sender out and check the channel to that. Slightly odd gauge drops to zero but light doesn't come on.

Could be bad connection somewhere or screw a capillary gauge straight into the sender hole for a accurate reading.

Could be bad connection somewhere or screw a capillary gauge straight into the sender hole for a accurate reading.

Yes I'll check all that.
Still worried about that missing magnet but every chance it's in the old oil or filters

Yep.....  first port of call a 2nd pressure gauge just as a check.(Capillary version). I have lost count of how many "classic cars" have been brought to me with oil pressure showing above 50 psi on gauge at start up dropping to just above zero when hot and going up to indicated 20 psi at hot idle. Panic sets in but it`s an old tired gauge that,s the issue in most cases, Rarely a collapsed capillary tube of duff sender. Ancient ammeters have minds of there own as well      Modern oil pressure gauges/senders are of a quality/reliability dependent upon where they are made. To be realistic however all you need to know is that the gauge is giving an indication that you have an oil pressure. Classic cars still have an "oil light" on the dash as well as a pressure gauge.  It all comes under the heading of the "joys of motoring". How I ever got involved in this stuff all those decades ago enjoying every minute I don`t know" .  Seems now all I do is accompanied by moans and groans from muscles joints and it may be my imagination but I think there really is such a thing as "brain ache". Glutton for punishment am I  as am just about to go out with a crying shoulder joint once again    (Triumph Stag this morning not a Beach Buggy)....  

Stag waiting patiently for me to open door & lift bonnet in the sunshine....
One of the most attractive 70`s cars a Stag is. This one is a rare thing indeed. Other than a repaint, somewhere in the past, it`s all original even to the 54 year old carpets. Mind you carpets this old are threadbare in places and have that "old relic" moisty smell.  All part of classic ownership.
 Oil pressures fine just an old gauge doing it`s best in it`s old age. Just like me    
Most importantly the engine thrust washers are sound and secure. Has twin Stromberg 175 CD2 carbs that to no surprise are way out of synch etc. (Another job to do). Strange how maligned the Stromberg constant depression carbs are. They do the job brilliantly as long as they are in decent condition and set up correct.
 
Another moan but all part of old age.....  How on earth can Boots charge you £22  for one tube of Voltarol ??

Well the saga continues.

Took the oil pressure sender off and gave it a good spray with parts cleaner, thought that had fixed it.
Guage reading and pressure increased when revved,, happy days.

Took it for a drive, filled up with fuel and came up to temperature
About 7 or 8 miles, all good
In the evening off to a local meet, another 8 Mike run
Stayed for an hour or so and headed home, still some heat in tge engine and got to 80 but then just kept going so now overheating.


As oil is a big part of the cooling if flow is poor tonearm of the engine thats what I guess would happen, so back to the drawing board