Hi guys, I've decided as part of my rebuild I would like a 1776 building, with twin carbs, engle 110, lightened flywheel, full flow etc I just wanted some recommendations on what to do.

At the moment I've a working TP 1600 with dual weber carb, which runs fine.

I also have a clean single port 1200 long block which turns by hand.

Think my options are:

1. Keep the 1600 and have the case / heads machined and bigger b&p's installed and have an engle 110 / new flywheel / seals / gaskets etc done at same time

2. Send the 1200 long block in and use this as my exchange for a newly refurbished 1776 long block with new flywheel / 110 etc, and build it up myself buying my own carbs / ancillaries etc

3. Sell the 1600 on here / eBay / etc and bite the bullet and purchase a turnkey 1776 - (if so, any recommendations on suppliers??)

Would be really appreciative of some advice. Budget approx 2-3k. Not sure how far this would stretch but hopefully get me nicely off the blocks!

Cheers.

I would contact Farmer Rob on here.
My engine , built by Rob is the spec' you suggest; 1776, 110 cam , full flow etc.
If nothing else, Rob will five sound unbiased advice.
Paul

well your 1200 is useless for rebuilding,the stroke is shorter than other vw engines.andy pierce is a well regarded engine builder he,s near rochdale.buggy,s dont realy need lots of horse power,just keep it reliable.over 80mph in a buggy is kamakasi territory anyway.its not just being able to go fast its handling and stopping,but if you want to spend loads of dosh on a hot motor,just leave me the wrekage in your will

well your 1200 is useless for rebuilding,the stroke is shorter than other vw engines.andy pierce is a well regarded engine builder he,s near rochdale.buggy,s dont realy need lots of horse power,just keep it reliable.over 80mph in a buggy is kamakasi territory anyway.its not just being able to go fast its handling and stopping,but if you want to spend loads of dosh on a hot motor,just leave me the wrekage in your will

Nice one Pete

Actually the later 1200 engines had AS41 cases with the duel relief valves. A lot of engine builders like them for performance builds because they say the 1200 does not stress the cases as much so they can be better to work from. You just need to swap cylinder head studs over 

Rob

Dealing with Farmer Rob direct now so thanks for the info - good to see you might have learnt something there too Pete

Hi I am also looking to upgrade my engine, running a t/p 1300 1971 with a 200m clutch, looking for a 1600 or 1641, any recommendations on purchase or do I go down the long block and put my own bit on any advice much appreciated. 

Hi I am also looking to upgrade my engine, running a t/p 1300 1971 with a 200m clutch, looking for a 1600 or 1641, any recommendations on purchase or do I go down the long block and put my own bit on any advice much appreciated.

How's you 1300 bottom end, oil pressure, end float etc? If good you could fit 1600 or 1641 cyls & pistons and 1600 heads to your own bottom end.

Had the engine rebuilt about 4 years ago but not happy with the outcome still have a bit of end float with small oil leak nothing to mention, as for condition all good runs well but would like something with more horse power, not an option for rebuild with the end float, thats why I thought about a long block and fit my bits and pieces.

Had the engine rebuilt about 4 years ago but not happy with the outcome still have a bit of end float with small oil leak nothing to mention, as for condition all good runs well but would like something with more horse power, not an option for rebuild with the end float, thats why I thought about a long block and fit my bits and pieces.

If you've had too much endfloat since it was built it could've been set wrong from the start and just need adjusting with shims, as long as the flywheel end main bearing isn't moving in the case. It'd be worth checking as you'd get more for it if you decide to sell it.